ARTZ

look on a v8 anything will work because the v8 is doing half the work already..A well built camaro big block can do 9s without a charger put twin turbos on the v8 it will go harder..

meh dont waste your time with an intercooler ,as I said get an old redline torker manifold or similar then maybe stick either stick 4 big injectors in a base plate made to mount the supercharger on the manifold or fab some injector holes into each individual intake runner. just use a water/meth setup if it gets too hot. Will be much neater setup this way

you running a centrifigal supercharger I imagine cause I have no idea how you would intercool a roots type blower. Centrifigal chargers are rubbish and you would be better off running a turbo than one of these..fitting a roots type blower will yield better results and is much easier to setup. Just get a 4 barrel holley manifold stick a blower on top with an injector plate on top or below that.The most I have seen is about 350hp from one of these and its a lot of work to get there when you could throw an RB engine in there and easily have a more reliable and user friendly 400 plus hp for the same outlay and if the engine goes bang simply buy another. Add to this the epa and engineering will be much more friendly with a new tech engine than an old one.. You can just get a conversion kit from CRS to bolt it all in could cost less than 5k if your smart and can make 500hp before you even need to open the engine.. Not doing it is crazy.. But yeah if you insist on a centrifigal then yeah use a VK injection inlet manifold, for 350hp just go 500cc plus injectors should cover it, maybe bigger to be safe, probably something like an old wolf 3d or similar should work for an ecu and shouldnt the TB go after the charger, just leave it in its original spot on the manifold

win what exactly?

@ Terry......whats this you say about hondas an e95?

if you want an auto get the v6 but I agree hondas rock, they go like stink when the foots down,the build quailty is up there or surpasses any euro ,We have160,000 kms on ours and the only problem its ever had was a left hand door lock actuator, it cost me 40$ from USA..honda australia wanted 300$ fitted honda servicing is a jib though so do it yourself if you can If the Euro is a bit squishy in the back you can get the bigger non euro Accord, its just as good and cheaper as well cause it doesnt have a euro badge and is built in taiwan ( euro is built in japan) i think the euro handles a little better as well but we have the V6. the camry is easily the cheapest to service and doesnt require timing belt changes every 100k, its a decent car but its no honda, I'd get an aurion if you can. Suby looks nice and drives nice, reliability is a bit hit n miss.. Accord and camry are americas favourite car they're as common as falcons and commodore are here. So just source all parts over there they are really really cheap. They dont have As many euros (sold as acura) only the bigger v6 style acord but the parts are mostly interchangable . All that said though every car you listed is still around 20k

yeah theres alot of new cops in melbourne trying to justify their exsistence and apparently all the criminals are on the road. Meanwhile bodies are floating down the Yarra

Exactly ...way i see it there is nothing to be gained on the street from removing pollution gear so why not just keep it . Pretty sure I read somewhere that race/drift cars in Japan are required to keep pollution gear and they are hardly slow. Whats it worth really ,10hp maybe at most, on a 400hp+ car its a pittance so just keep it and you will be doing the planet a favour . Just have a decat for the track if you want it and block of your charcoal cannister its not hard to change.. Do the right thing PS.. This thread is stupid.....

its fun hey.. I would rather do a turbo than a clutch anyday how have you done the coolant lines, did you cut the old one or take it off. cause getting the old line off the back of the block is near impossible.. Your lucky if you didnt have any broken manifold studs I had 5 broken, extra 120$ to get drilled and replaced and managed to shear a power steering line (dont ask ) another 70$. Just dont do what I did and forget to put the bracket that holds the intake pipe up,if you took it off that is, cause you will have to take the manifold and everything attached to it, off again to do it. last buy not least I forgot to attach the turbo oil drip line and had to cut a spanner in half to attach it on the car an 1/8th of a turn at a time

you got it coated Dave, that looks great, might have to do mine if its not too costly

why bother, Id imagine a decent set of slicks and a good rear end setup would get you there wouldn't it?

+1 done it a few times as well.. is this thing still getting a V* or have plans changed

If he doesnt like the black idea Id like to change my vote to this one though as it has the best balnace of colour, not sure why I didnt spot it before.. But yeah, ignore my previous posts (blabberings) this scheme with either the metalcast blue or black covers

even better..i have tried it with a can and its tricky getting it to wrinkle evenly.. Confuse him!! he started it when he gave me 9 different colour schemes to choose from and I didnt like any of them...

Sorry not trying to lose you work Craved but figured he was going somewhere else.. there was a pic of tangomatts 34 he has them done in crinkle coat,looks awesome but only suits certain cars..

I like this one, except I would probably leave the strut brace bits blue, and I would get rid of those horrible red radiator houses for black. That way you would have a red black theme going with a few little bits in blue.. If it was my car however all the red/blue would be gone ,you can get black fittings, and i would coat everything else in satin or gloss black this would match the rest of your car well too edit* actually even if you keep all the red/blue fitting as it is and did just the covers in satin black...Can u photoshop one of them for me, leave everything the way it is but with black covers..even if you just did the cam covers with crinkle coat black and left everything else just the way it is just polish up the metal stuff i think it would look great and only cost 20$ for a can of paint yep thats my vote crinkle coat covers and leave the rest

yeah, just take it easy

think you read it wrong, what i was saying is 7psi on your new turbo could be close to equal to high boost (aka 12psi) from your standard turbo

even hitting boost wouldnt be bad as long as it was only on stock 7psi you can crank boost up on a standard turbo/ecu and its ok so a bigger turbo on low boost wont be too bad either its the same principal your giving the engine more air, give it too much air and it will not have enough fuel, thats why its not recomended what you dont want to do is put too much sudden load on it, that is dont drop the clutch on boost, or mash the pedal.. If your boost is kept low and you let the engine load up torque it is ok.. I drove mine around for a quite few weeks like this

yeah but thats cheating ..lol Gates flame proof hose from any speed shop about 20$ a metre, 1 metre is plenty, you can get it on the end of the inlet manifold rail if you take the aac off.. I just looped mine all the way around and down away from the manifold.. you can ask hypergear for oil lines.. he should have them so would most turbo shops for that matter, what area you in?

fuggin ay, i was looking at getting a V8 stato before the honda but everyone i looked at had had the steering replaced and didnt have 100k on the clock yet. I figured it was mostly because of stupid drivers trying to park in tight shopping centres and cranking the wheel whilst car was staionary, but have also heard it was a design fault made y the company the job was outsourced to

yeah i bet it does, once your valve springs get sloppy it all falls to shit really, allthough it was still in pretty good nick considering. Would be interesting to know what the comp was like too. would be cool to see how your car goes against Kris with the 3076 and 280kw..

its a pretty mental setup you have , so what sort of power you hoping thiis will make?

nice, its also made peak power 500rpm earlier and more torque, is it a full new tune or just a rework of the old one?

who runs around on full boost and who turns the boost down with EBC when they dont need it and will this make it last any longer anyway?