ARTZ

whatever you do stay away frombrown/beige/tan/cream unless you want your car to look like a mochachino colours could work like red blue inserts with black but its kinda boring and been done to death.. personally Id be going for something a little different like this steel kind of colour just for the seat inserts and door trims, Then I would use this colour pewter for the rest of the seat surrounds cause it should match nicely with the standard dash and door plastic colours..then if you wanted to paint the dash surround you could paint it in tungsten which is the colour of the standard cam covers i think..it actually looks really nice when its clean. after that if you just clean your engine up really nice I think the whole car would match and tie together nicely..

thats the best advice yet alr33x another thing I forgot to mention why not just fit all the stuff to the car youself, there is plenty of info online how to do stuff. I dont know what im doing but I reckon I could fit most of that stuff in a weekend with some help from my old mate google

Hektik points are good for rwkw you should know that by now Paul. Also, they will match his veilside kit as for Recomendations, put all the stuff on your car and go sliding, if you want some more power ( and I would too ) get turbo hiflowed with steel wheels so it can handle 18 pounds of boost, about 1000$, plus tune will be 500+ this will give you plenty of power (210kw) for learning and one thing nobody has mentioned strangely enough, a hicas lock bar, which is probably more impotant than anything else.

Ok now that you girls are finished, waddayarekn Phil, GB on the nismo kits...

that could be what He was talking about when I spoke to him, he said he would make me one up, i was thinking he meant out of an op6. I Didnt think of that.. definately anothr option though. Where is Tao to shed dome light on this maybe I'll shoot him a PM I do figure if I can get hold of a hks would be the best option as it delivers proven results and my tune is basically setup for it already and would just need some tweaking ,but for the price of stuffing around I could almost pick a whole turbo s/h with dump.. Theres been a few up for sale recently too, pity I didnt think of this before. Even if I could pick up a blown one ,I'll see what happens

that would make sense, stupid question.. The car I got it off was only pushing standard fuel system and making 220 on 14 psi so it hadnt been flogged stupid..If i put a better housing on it, it should be good for many kms yet..Atm kind of feels liek a grenade waiting to happen

really I thought they all had it, so which ones didnt?

pretty sure there is nothing else wrong, my wastegate is only a 20psi actuator and im getting that at the manifold so not getting to much pressure drop through my cooler even though its a cheapy. A 200cpsi metal cat probably isnt helping but shouldnt be robbing to much power. Apart from that everything is fine and dandy so pretty sure its just the rear housing, its just too small to flow a gt30 core successfully. i got the turbo secondhand a year ago off an R34 so figured it had an 0p6 housing, I didnt even think to check cause I figured who would put a 21u on an neo engine At the moment my biggest concern is not actually more power but i have been told the backpressure caused by the housing puts to much stress on the turbo bearings and burns them out especially if its pushing 20psi. Tao said hes had to repair a few so I'd rather fix the problem if I can rather than have a dead turbo

But why, i mean you already own a Magna sport just get a cat back..

400+ new cops on the beat and 100s of new speed cameras installed recently and the road toll is up 14 on last years figures already. Is it possible that their system isnt working

Ok so couple of days ago I came to the realization that its pretty obvious my rear housing is the only thing holding my turbo back. I was talking to AVO about their rear housings wondering if I was going to experience any extra lag and they advised me that the excess back pressure cause by my 21u housing ( I believe its modded to .64) was possibly the cause of my lag so there would probably be no difference, sounds plausible right.. Anyway i scoured this forum for whatever info i could and noticed this.. here are my turbo specs.. GT3071R garrett ball bearing turbo comp housing 0.50a/r inducer wheel diameter 53.1mm exducer wheel diameter 71.0mm trim 56 exhaust housing 0.64 a/r turbine wheel diameter 56.5mm trim 84 here is Hks 2835 pro s turbo specs.. COMPRESSOR: -Wheel- 56 Trim - 53.1 Inducer / 71.1 Major -Housing- 100 Inlet / 50 Outlet - 0.50 A/R TURBINE: -Wheel- 84 Trim - 56.5 Major / 51.8 Exducer -Housing- T3 inlet / Outlet spec: Internal GT-Pro; 0.68, 0.87 A/R Now the only difference is i have an 80mm inlet, hks has 100mm other than that they are identical except for the rear housing. \ .I also then pulled out Hamishs old dyno chart (cause I knew he has the 2835 pro s) for a comparison and noticed this Joes boost plot My boost plot Also identical topping at 19.8 and dropping to about 17.5. Now i was always under the impression the rear housing was the biggest deciding factor in the way a turbo holds boost but this kind of throws that theory and it seems it is all to do with core specs..I guess both can play their part in this though..So even though I already knew my rear housing was why I didnt make big power, i now realise how much power it could make with the right housing and there is no need to lose response for it, in fact I could gain some.. Now when i compared power graphs my turbo will ramp up power almost exactly the same till 3500rpm when full boost hits and the hks takes off ahead in leaps and bounds heres graphs if your interested, remembering its the red line on his chart not the white which is e85.. damn you Joe getting black printouts that are impossible to read Now I was going to tune for E85 for some extra grunt but whats the point when I can change my rear and make extra power still on pulp. But , which housing would be the best choice.. 1.Hypergear can mod me a 0p6 housing to suit 2.AVO .71, direct bolton , those 2 are the cheapest options or 3.HKS .68 will need new dump and front pipe, possibly a new WG actuator = $$ 4. Garret housing, not sure whether .63 or .82 would be best and again, new dump and front pipe required those 2 will possibly perform better but will cost twice as much and is the cost worth it? Now the way I see it I have all supporting mods and all of these housings should make me 260-280kw, but which do you think will be suited best to my current setup? remembering I want to retain my response, get the best result for the best possible for the price.. Now I have pretty much made up my mind what I am going to do but am very interested to hear others opinions on what they would do In my situation.. Cheers Dave PS i know what your thinking, why am I going about this all ass about instead of just buying the right turbo to begin with. But hey, what can I say, I play my cards as they fall

Shut up Phil nobody asked you

yes cause thats where its sweet spot is and what it was designed to do.. An extra gear may just have the engine labouring somewhat and could probably make fuel economy worse.

lets see, get clean R34 for 15, spend 5k on mods and you have a weapon with parts that are cheap and plentiful should you need them. Theres an endless supply of tech support and as stated they are not so full of electronic BS or Get V35 and be comfortable.. i know which Id choose

meh. wont make any difference just park it and forget about it. It will be exactly the same when you go to get it just a little dustier. Just dont try to get the dust off by hand high pressure wash only. i would flush the radiator probably and possibly wax it but thats it. Mine sat in a shed for over year, got trucked out for new paint then trucked back. Needed a new battery then started first kick without any problem never emptied the fueel or anything. That was four years ago and Ive had no problems. As long as its in a shed it will be fine dont stress

true there is heaps of different combos, but i looked on the tremec site and they all had 1:1 in fourth.. But i didnt look very hard I may of missed something.. Cant be any worse than the clunky old 5 speed in my skyline can it..

yeah I must admit the diesel tax they put on things is friggin ridiculous..Point taken.. I was doin some reading last night and its actually the diesels that have the head problems as well, so I was wrong there too but I was drunk last night so I will blame it on that

Oh you dont know out resident fatty lover.. this should help.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/309618-bbw-vs-slim-nsfw/page__st__600__p__5687308__hl__bbw__fromsearch__1#entry5687308

Can you recomend me some oils birds. Am using penrite hpr 5 in the engine atm seems to be most popular but i wouldnt mind something better for the box its a bit crunchy.. My uncle did have problems with his gearbox, some design fault with oil galleries i think that mazda owned up to and fixed..

im sure boz could help you with this one..

not sure what their like on gas, my guess is ordinary like anything on gas. but at least you have 4.8 ltrs to make up for the ordinary.. I have heard they have alot of head issues though, cant remember the details but these could possibly be worse if on gas.. If your gunna get a truck get a diesel..you wont look back.. I had a gas bravo whcih never gave me problems so I was skeptical about diesels but my little bt50 is rad..so much toooorque..you can get full programable ecus for 1200$, bigger exhausts, intercoolers the works and they can put out some decent power and the mods and maintenance is piss easy... on drizzly days im constantly spinning up third by accident, i was driving down a wide gravel road today and just give it a flick and instant fishtails were no problem at all. Its a funny feeling fishtailing at 2500rpm, its kind of relaxing actually granted mines only a 2wd tray but the 4wd guys on the forums say they flick em around no worries too..The patrol comes in a 4.5 diesel, thats what id be getting..but even the bt50/ranger are awesome rigs, i dont hear many complaints lots of good info here http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/

is that freeway, noosa and back yeah. Our honda gets about that around town and as much as 800 per 55lt on the highway. My bt50 does 650 to 700 per 55lt.

thats actually not so silly with some decent turbs and tubs you'll get it pulling 8s np

coppers are better but 50$ for coppers I see what you mean does sound like they're taking you for a bit of a ride.. With my housings the GT30 core is as good as useless if you ask me, It made just over 220kw on 14 psi initial tune. I think yours will be just as good with some more boost.. it is a turbo I picked up secondhand cause it is labelled a 3071r beleive it or not but is nothing in comparison, It is what it is and does ok..I could put a bigger rear housing for more power/topend but Im happy enough for now. Havent been down the quarter yet its on my todo list though, if it gets in the 12s i'll be happy

yeah, it hasnt happened again since I rewashed them it was just the first time..i will reapply another coat of sealant this weekend if its not raining and see if it does it again.