ARTZ

Ok now i gets it. I think Im using 5-40 (may be 10-40), car was always run on Mobil 1 but motul was on sale when i went to buy it. I was under the impression light viscosity were recomended to lubricate turbos on startup, but I always let my car warm up a so little heavier wouldnt hurt. Still haven't got my E85 tune

yeah but this guy hasn't got a 400kw gtr or an s13, he has a 220kw gtst, now it is pretty easy to squeeze another reliable 40kw out of this motor. My point was, rather than trying to lose over 300kg wouldn't it be alot easier to get that extra 40kw and lose maybe 100-150kg Cause I think we can all agree his target of 900kg is near impossible with an r33, it seems 1100kg would even be a struggle.

yeah i guess in the long run with the savings on tyres, brakes clutches and even fuel, being lighter is going to work in your favour.. Its just so tempting (especially with an engine as tunable as the RB), to think more power is the easiest option to going quicker.

Without trying to turn this into an oil thread, Ive been under the impression from this forum that a 40w oil was plenty for most RB engines.. Now I believe thicker oils are better for older engines and engines that see a lot of hardwork, I even debated so in another thread to alot of people that swear a 40w was more than adequate for any RB. Even you have said many times Hamish that you always used motul 4100 or has that bearing failure cause a change of heart.. personally I just use the 8100 xces but I have considered the 6100, but what is the advantage of it and why is it recomended for Ethanol.

Have you removed the manifold yet, because the nuts should hopefully come off and the studs should stay in the head, but they will break there isnt much you can do to stop it, it is not your fault it is a design fault in the manifold that causes them to crack .I had 5 broken ones 2 at the front 3 at back After you get the manifold out you will then need to get the studs out of the head and replace them. If you cant weld them just use 2 nuts ,put both on then turn the inside one and it should butt up hard on the outside nut and eventually turn the stud out.. At first both nuts may want to spin, in which case you need to hold the outside nut tight with a spanner, at the same time you turn the inside one,it can be tough but it works. just put the outside spanner against something solid son it doesnt turn and get some leverage on the inside nut, once you do one the rest will seem easy Also you can buy a special socket that just undoes studs, but its about 50$ i think if you can find one You may also need to drill the broken studs out of the head.If you have no idea how to do this, pay a professional it will save you alot of headache GL..

really, why such a heavy weight?

Just wondering for all the effort of some of the things listed by RISKING, would it not be easier and cheaper just to squeeze and an extra 30-40kw out of the engine to compensate for the weight. I mean GTR guards and bonnet will cost you a grand , all this titanium stuff isnt cheap, rewiring the loom can be a nightmare, alloy carbon rims another coupe of grand. Sure, all the little things removed add up to a significant weight loss, but for little outlay you could just get some more power and remove the easy/basic stuff for a similar power to weight ratio..

22inch rims are a must have, theres a thread on it somewhere if you search

Im just gunna stick this here cause its awesome thinking music while I search for something else http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFlpCjaFoiE

i will give you the hot tip, it is alot easier if you take the afm out of the car and bolt it to the airbox first then install it into the car..Also helps if you use a left handed screwdriver

Lol. put then in fromthe other side then..

sounds like your putting the screws in the wrong way maybe..Your trying to put them in from the inside arent you

this may sound a little silly but are u sure the waterpump is actually working? Hasnt sheared a shaft or something. The water is moving

Nice clutch, whats the retail on one of those?

yeah I know, i think im the only one stressing here, not sure why I even care

mate 18x9+32 you say, the rims he has are 18x9+40..thats an 8mm difference barely noticeable to the human eye and you want to make thiis guy stress he doesnt have he right size wheels. I swear you guys can be so anal sometimes Just put the rims on and post pics already OP

i feel nismoid and elite mighta hit it on the head, its just flowing too much too quickly, have you got a smaller or standard radiator you could try even. If this is the problem it sucks cause i got the same radiator ,42mm might have been a better option, may just be a classic case of bigger isnt always better.

I like their project car.. http://www.ksport.com.au/K_Sport_Project_Car.html

I had it tuned about 6months ago, I have given it a bit of a hard time a kick here a dump there, climbed a few hills and such..Hasn't failed me yet but i don't treat it like shit..

put petrol in it

this guy was selling one a few weeks ago, not sure if it sold.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/352443-turbosmart-e-boost-street-ebc/ just found the same one as you pictured on ebay for 330$ http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbosmart-eBoost2-Sleeper-60mm-BLK-NIB-/280637371866?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41574a75da theres another one HDi i think was quite a bit cheaper, and meant to be pretty good http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HDI-electronic-boost-controller-EBC-R-/230551026483?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ade97b33 Or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HDI-Super-Boost-Controller-EVOSBC-D-SE-EVO-free-postage-/230575034632?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35af57d108 I have no experience with either sorry but pretty sure they will do the job..

Really, i think the rims he has now would look and fit better..Just add spacers if you want more flush

yeah i wonder the same thing, the triple pass that the alot of the v8 guys use, where the coolant is actually going down and then back up again surely would put strain on it, But alot of them are running big electric pumps, but still. They are advertised as having "little or no adverse flow restriction" although nothing is listed for anything other than old muscle cars .i think PWR or someone do them too.. Side to side wouldn't be too bad I dont think.. As the pump is now only pushing water through less cores at a time (although effectively twice as long ) there would be more pressure allowing it to actually flow faster..

Problem is for a triple pass to work outlet needs to be on the opposite side, Im not sure how it would work with the inlet and outlet being on the same side Another crappy pic.. unless you did it this way but its only double pass or possible quad...lol Edit ..just realised you said triple core not triple pass.. I think you have other issues though if it is getting worse with each run

have you got the big brakes on your car Phil? i still havent put those Hel lines in..Im So slack..