ARTZ

I got a grey 33, followed you back on the highway to frankston...U got white wheels and a little tailpipe yeah... There was also some guy in a blue monaro look like he was trying to race everyone.. Was funny actually, havent driven my car for months (its been in pieces) went for a drive to Sorrento for icecream and seen all these SAU cars on the way back

Haha, i thought that was you overtook me in a puff of smoke at the rounadabout... Yiou were following nurspec and a white 33..

yeah resonator wont drop noise much but will give it a nice burble note which is good, and magnaflow mufflers are pretty good for the price You should get a smaller pipe , 3 inch is too big for an N/A 2 ltr...get a 2.5inch and decent muffler on the back ,not a cannon and youll be fine..Should sound good actually,especially with extractors. Maybe a resonator in the middle wont hurt but not essential.. And it doesn't need to be expensive at all Id go with this option... ""they offered to make a custom exhaust (2.5" catback) comprising of resonators topped off with a muffler and tip. ~$400"" Though should only be 1 resonator.. And get a chrome tipped magnaflow...

agreed, r34 much nicer vehicle, r32 getting to old , too many problems likely to arise and not as refined as the 34..I have seen a few nice 34gt lowered with rims and a good stereo make a great daily.. However if you wanted mainly a track vehicle i would say get a 32 cause its lighter, revs harder and the money you save can be used for suspension, brake mods But for safety sake get the 34, its got abs and airbags... *EDIT* whatever you do, dont get fooled into a gts4 they're shit.... And if you want 4 doors your honestly better off with a commodore

Yeah got me wondering why they are usually bent too now Movie time, think ill watch Cop Out.............

So where,d you score the time machine ,found this trippy thing , can be seen thru the rear window... http://www.toysauto.co.uk/product_info.php...me=strut-braces Dunno what gtr is like, i got a cusco one is bent more than that jjr thing is...Does jjr fit behind the backboard...

if you pull away the backboard in your boot then then look behind the sides you will notice two big bolts on either side of the rear of the strut tower..

I was trying to find that car a while back, it has a twin turbo 351 in it, crazy car..all started cause he was sick of getting a ribbing from his mates about driving an excel.. All i could find was a 4 sale add he wanted 40,000$ for it...

yeah stupid small bottles, if you get another litre...should be enough.. Did you get this one or this one...

I got a spare one, think its series 1 are they different...

Is it true there selling it in cheltenham now?

Yeah i was going to mention DBAs as well, around 250$-300$ for slotted fronts from memory...

Yeah but thats a V8 right...Whole different ballpark there...

Nobody likes a dobber Michael... Well police do cause it makes their job easy...

Isnt there a bracket in front of the cat?? I fitted the same dump to a 33 recently, the only problem i had was the bracket needed to be ground out a bit because it didnt fit around the 3 inch pipe...Was there a bracket on the original pipe, it should come off and you can re-use it.. That was the only problem I had, well that and you need smaller headed bolts on the turbo end, but only the middle two..Apart from that fit perfect...

post from another site... "we recommend using redline super lightweight in nissan boxes, it is equivalent to say vmx80 castrol which is a recommended oil for factory boxes. the lightweight shockproof is a bit too heavy and you will feel shift harshness until warm.however the super lightweight shockproof is far superior to any oil we have tested and used. the lightweight oil is a better oil in relation to load carrying capacity but can annoy people on cold shifts thats all. the redline product is great all round. " http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=293723 for the rest of the story... .. No oil will magically fix your gearbox, when its old it old, kinda like arthritis...

Just_rb here is the technical info from the service manual you are after...Hope this helps...

yeah which is gunna suck if you read the penrite book and only buy 2ltrs...Maybe its a typo or old info thats since been updated on the net, dunno... We still havent really answered OPs original question But even Kiwis can do it.... name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>&"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350" />

yeah gtst... your all searching for advice but are not taking any notice of advice given,which is, if the car is level and you fill up through the filler hole you cannot overfill it, as birds said it is designed that way..And has been in most cars for the last 50 years if not more... Now if the car was not level you may have a slight variance.. Anyway, my diff took about 1.5 ltres..cant be exactly sure but of 2.5 ltrs there is about a litre left.. Gearbox took 375ml of g70, and about 3 ltrs of oil..just over a litre left from 4...So about 3.4ltr all up I say 375ml cause bought 2 tubes, one for the diff, but after draining and noticing filings on the gearbox plug we thought it was best to put it all in the box ,not sure if this is a good idea or not but im sure ill find out.. Took it for a long drive and it all feels nice and tight and smooth...and didnt cost the earth... @birds ..in the recomendations book in autobahn/repco the penrite book does recomend 2 for the box and 1 for the diff (weird i know)..Castrol says 2.8 and i think 1.5..in another thread here ..3.8 and 1.8 was recomended, which i think is closest to right if you use the top it to the plug method as you described, which is the method Ive always used as well...i used a little bit less than this...but close...Why people are not content with the method im pretty sure every mechanic uses is beyond me...

Also reason fines are so large is.. Back in the day it was a 110$ fine, so instead of paying rego people would try not to as long as possibly, if you get pulled over once in a year you get fined 110$ which is 400 or more cheaper than rego so people used to risk it to save a buck So now the fine is equual to the registration amount so if you dont pay it, you will wish you had. So when you think about it , it is justified.. They also used to have a rule that you had 28 days after expiry to pay it an could still drive your car,but they scraped that as well.. I got fined a while back for not putting my new sticker up, it was in the glovebox and rego was paid. I told them so and got fined for laziness, cop that...

Yeah...theres a reason for that...

Yep........

If i take the plastic grip off My jack handle it fits nicely over the end of my ratchet handle conveniently doubling as a breaker bar...

Or how about this mix.. A 32 + a 32 = something like this.. Heres the story if you want more... http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrd...oupe/index.html Now thats engineering!!!! Its actually volvo powered but could esaily be done with a wrecked GTR

That would hardly be a VWRX then would it Of course I thought of that but the words budget and Porsche dont really belong in the same sentence, although it has been done many times before, Im yet to see it in AWD , I think finding a written off WRX for parts is going to be alot cheaper than finding a Porsche.. Also in a Porsche driveline layout the engine sits further back from the wheels whereas a suby en engine sits more between the front wheels (insert image here), would be better balanced and wouldnt stick out as much as Porsche engines often do, remember We are changing the whole driveline here not just the engine..You will also find the Early wrx driveline is roughly 2400mm same as the beetle, though with a bit wider track..Also beetles weigh in at around 800kg no doubt the Wrx driveline will add to this considerably but you could keep overall weight close to a tonne..Not that i would build it as a performance car, just for something different... Found these while googling as well Ls4 turbo beetle.. And the new brumby ute...