ARTZ

If you mean dump and front pipe yes...great cheap mod...if you mean just the dump.pipe itself, its not going to make bugger all difference if you dont change the front pipe as well...so if you are looking at one of those shitty eBay split dumps dont bother...more important is to change your front pipe to a 3inch..or get a bellmouth style dump/front pipe from just jap...but the 3 inch front pipe from dump to cat is most important

have driven through many a puddle.....I know QLD gets rather large puddles though and the people up there aren't too bright so i do understand your reasoning... but there is just as many electrics low in the car, starter motor, gearbox plugs etc etc that are subject to wetness all year round.... Now yes, i have seen coilpack cover threads and it is an area to sway away from...and you also shouldnt hit anything with too much pressure...use a too powerful gerni, push gerni too close to electrics of course you are asking for problems....but natural selection is at work too and many of us have sprayed our engines countless times without problem... but saying "dont spray your engine" is just as naive as the goose who sprays his engine wrong.. I have sprayed/degreases the engine of every car i have ever owned and thats a few...only once did i have an issue where my valley filled up with water causing my plugs to short out...but thats my own stupid fault for spraying too much water on my coiplacks.... anyway tl;dr it is ok to spray your engine...it is not ok to spray certain parts of it....learn the difference you shouldnt have an issue....

So if there is deep water on the road I can't drive through it....because there is lots of sensitive electrics under my car too??

yeah that would be sweet....you broke them? just blown turbines I assume...

Yeah, i doubt there is much performance benefit either way...just one feels like a race car and the other is more civilized...

Can somebody please buy this....i need more car parts

yeah see I'm all about smooth rolling

yep.. so use the Efr turbo with twin scroll, its not going to be any worse is it....! how could it not work... What about Owen...did the twin scroll gtx3076...you telling me that didn't work?..problem.with the smaller housing is you are sacrificing top end, while a twin scroll while you can have you cake and eat it too... And making a twin scroll manifold is no harder than making the manifold in that eBay advert...it would just merge a little differently into a t3 or t4 twin flange instead of merging into single pipe Its not alot of extra work at all.. Anyway dont worry, im not building it so you won't have to make me any whacky manifolds...was just an idea, I still think it's a good one

Needs moar twin scroll and low mount turbo though... that manifold is very basic..Its like an entry level kit for kids who want a top mount turbo....I had a way cooler manifold idea.

haha bolt on kit...nice!....still not twin scroll though and not sure i like the design of that manifold..def seems to work though.. anyway have found hiflow ct12s for around 1500, good for 300kws...so have given up on the twin scroll idea, still think it could work well though.. I'm just going to flog the stockies till they blow or I tire of them

And I am pretty sure he can legally do it too... Just like if he didn't have insurance at all you would have to get your car fixed at a price deemed as one he could afford.. You could bitch and moan about not being happy with the job afterwards, but if it is fixed to a reasonable and safe standard there is nothing you can do..

Sounds like he is trying to avoid making an insurance claim....if he can somehow prove the damage to your car can be fixed for less than his excess so he doesn't have to make a claim and stain his insurance rating..

stock manifold will be ok if you want to use it... just wont really handle what the 3076 is capable of...you'd find the 3071 would spool up a little quicker is all and still make plenty of power...but dont stress if you already have the turbo

one water line goes into the block behind the turbo....The other water line goes around the back of the head and into the back of the inlet manifold....its a pain in the ass to get to as there is a couple bolts in the back of the head....you can get with a 10mm spanner but it will try your patience...alot of people just cut it and attach a hose, isn't really the correct way to do it but it can work....make sure you use some heat proof hose though as it cops alot of heat...I used Gates flame proof, i think repco has it.....or wrap it with some kind of heat shielding...or use braided if you can get them..

On a stock manifold would probably stick with a Gtx 3071 as well...3076 is a little large for its capabilities....

You will need to modify the lines yes...

Yup

Gotnsoe. Coilpacks for sale...spitfires...perfect working order....message Me

So basically, one guy named Simon got awesome results from a t67 under what must of been perfect conditions.... So now everybody is trying to replicate said set up with less than perfect results...

my new old car

ahh ok I see....I was just curious after reading a thing on low grade oils damaging thrust bearings on high HP applications.. My old turbo has ended up on an Rb20 drifter anyway...hopefully it holds up good for him and back pressure isn't an issue

Yes, another Nelson racing masterpiece

any chance this could just be caused by incorrect oil choices ?

what about the strap ons?