ARTZ

exactly!!.. why waste $100 on a 25yr old pump with god knows how many kms on it when for a 150-200$ you can get a brand new walbro or something that will outperform it... GTR pumps aren't worth 20$ these days...

Maritin for PM and JZ for the ftw

u thEre one day or both Charles

Thanks mate... Is it just one of those cheapo purple anodized jobs...

yeah for the JZ...but question is relevant to RBs as well as 95$ rails on ebay for them too.... all the other rails are 250-500$ , using new seals isnt expensive and some of my injector seals need replacing anyway and i will have to modify spacers anyway for the shorty injectors i have, so considering all i really need is the rail, I would think savings are signicant, i just dont want it corroding its insides out... Im sure they probably have quality control and fitment issues like everything made in china, but that is a risk I am able to take as its not needed to work in a hurry

Anybody using those 95$ ebay "made in china" specials with E85... Are you succesful? from what I read they are "Made from 6061-T6 aluminum." and they look to be anodised...which seems to be the recomendation for using alchold based fuels Should i stay away and drop mega bucks on a better rail for just incase sakes or are they prefectly fine

bit of a change from the usual drift spec hacks hey...

A 380kw skyline can potentially do a 10 second quarter.. I doubt a 240kw evo can do that...

kind of like VW golfs...

i figured he might just have one of these

yeah this the graph Im aiming for witht he JZ....Just a set of cams on an otherwise stock motor...Looks pretty close to yours eh!

yeah Aaron was as fast as my 300kw 33 around Sandown in his stock evo 7..was a slow day and we're both pretty shitty drivers I guess but just gives you an idea of the evos potential...Personally I still like the skyline better...the evo has the ability, but lacks the class of the Skyline.. If something newer and 2 extra doors is what you're after though, it ticks the boxes

Too many people here are too serious about "traction" and "hooking up", its boring... Lets face it a 300kw car is a weapon regarldess of how good or crappy your tyres are... I ahd wheels for different occasions, I had some good rubber...and I had pretty ordinary rubber.... And on the street, it was more fun with crapper tyres, cause you could effortlessly do skids everywhere... Sure it wasn't as fast, but it was more fun ..And I'm not Brian O'conner racing for slips, I have nothing to prove to anyone.. I'm just a boy with a toy that likes to play

Dont be daft man....All or nothing, thats how we roll.....

Nnobody usually flushes complete autos...you just change the 3-4 litres every service and the oil stays fresh

there's a mint cressida for 500 on ebay...buy it i feel so alone...

yeah once its professionaly buffed and coated, maintenance is actually quite easy...soft bucket wash with a soft mitt and hose and towel dry...easy Problem is most peple dont do this and wash there car with stiff brushes and scrub at dirt instead of using the proper methods to remove it.. Once you learn the correct way though it is actually very easy.. but you have to learn the correct way first

i used to put 2 kids in the back of my 33 no worries...its just a pita climbing in the back to buckle em up all the time...

yeah they also come with all sorts of fancy electronic gizmos to assure that power gets to the ground, unlike a 93 gtst that has an LSd diff and thats about ti

even without full lock it will have a tighter turning circle than lets say a cressida...if i can park my cressida he can park a micra..

there's a cap at scottys house man...i saw it there other day

Look im sure it does, my diff was in good nick though and I had some tired dunlop R comps on it which were fairly sticky and it hooked up pretty good most of the time... it was onyl when i mashed the power in a lower gear it could get a bit hairy....But I just got used to changing up early which was fine because all my torque was around 4k anyway and I never had an issue really. it was still quick because it had 300kws and a very usable powerband .

yeah this is true...lol...I never did get around to getting a new diff... and look modern ECUS have heaps of cool features like boost by gear and such, so with the right setup you could definatley make 300-400kws very managable...And you can always turn the boost down...

But I think you have to ask yourself, are bored because you have driven the car to its limit and it wont go any faster , or are you bored because you're just not getting that Boost rush that you get when you first buy a skyline...

Reminds me of something Jeremy Clarkson said on Top Gear the other night the more power you have, the slower you go... i had my car at 190kws, used to bash it around everywhere, then jumped to 240, still bashed it around everywhere, then 300, thats when the bashing stopped I was a lot ore cautious....Then I ripped it all out and went back to 190kws...then bashed it around faster than ever... My 240 was a bit laggy, but i reckon around 220-240 with stock like response and good driving skills is def where its at.as 190kws just lacked in the top end..and 240 will too, How often are you winding out 4th gear though....cause even with good tyres 300kws can light up 3rd at 120+k if you have a heavy foot..Sure you can change up early and stay in your torque band of course, and still be fast but you throttle isnt as responsive in 4th as it is in 3rd its all a balancing act and again it just depends what you are wanting to do, if traffic light races and skids is all you want, or you plan on some hektik drifting then yeah you want to be up in the 300s, if precision on the street and twisty tracks is what your chasing then less is definately more..And only when you ahve exhausted yoru skills in the a lower power band should you start chasing more.. But, 300kws on street, even if you're not the quickest car out there ,its fun...lots of fun..And If you just want to have some fun just do it