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mr m00se

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    R32.4 Project car
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    Mark L

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  1. Lol, reminds me of the first fast n furious when that super street spec chequer plate goes flying. Danger to teh manifold.. lol As for real weight saving the guys have allready said all the easy street spec stuff, your next step would be replacing all glass with polly, replacing big metal fuel tank with a fuel cell. Ultra light battery, carbon shafts, Ti exaust, Stripped loom and the list goes on..
  2. here's a site with the breakdown http://www.blazt.biz/information/cars.php apparently all silvias and r32,33 & 34 run OBD 1
  3. Its called a project car mate, mines going to cost about 12-14k all up, this includes a set of bride buckets and evo brembos. most of the guys here are doing them to 32 gts-t's With an rb25 slotted in your looking at a pretty mean car for under 14k, a decent 32 gtr is worth at least 17K, any less and your looking a an expensive repair bill. I dont like the lines of the 34Gtt's and GTRs' are still 45K+ Insurance is allot less, engineer certs arnt that expensive and its a car thats a bit different and slightly rediculous. Im also a huge fan of the r32 chassi, much more then the 34gtt's. In short its something a little different, that isnt much $$ to build (kit 1k, headlights $800)
  4. So blitz is making you a custom one thats legal?, thats pretty cool
  5. I shot you a pm mate, pretty keen on the fiberglass one , =)
  6. Kit seems pretty fexible, quite happy with the workman ship, for the price. Ive yet to sort any aprovals out yet =/, im going to need coiles, fmic, rims (9.5' front, 10" rear) and 2 seat conversion approved. The cars un regoed atm and has allot of work to be done. Currently she is compleatly stripped, no engine or box, the fronts bolted together. Just on the process of flushing the drivers rear fender.
  7. I got my kit of ebay, can pick em up at rrp of about $900 + shipping. I got mine for a bargin at $600 inc shipping. But that doesnt include a bonnet, which is proving to be a prick to find. Viva garage has a Carbon silver one but asking $900
  8. Hey mate, awesome to hear that theres another 324 in my neck of the woods. Ive barley done anything on mine lately so prob another 6 months atleast till shes on the road. Coilies wise ive got hks hyper-d's on the rear and gabs on the front. No problems with clearance either, got about 120mm at the rear and 110mm at the front. Silly question but what size rims are you running? ive got 18's on mine. Cheers Mark, ps if you ever wanna pop round to check out the car your more then welcome
  9. Its looking good mate, mines still allong way off unfortunetly.
  10. Just for reference, these are decent little turbo's. Mate ran one for 2 years with no issues at all, he did modify it to external gate though because apparently the only iffy this with his was the actuator.
  11. Thanks for the link guys The way Im reading it, its differentiating between non intrusion and structural. The testing appears to be limited to structural items, from the way im reading it. So going from that , the only stipulation for bonnets is that they are 3.5mm thick and use stock mounting… ?
  12. Hey guys, I did a quick search but couldnt realy find an answer. My Question is , How strict are the pits/ cops on the wide body FRP front guards?. Do I actaully have a chance of getting my car registered with FRP front fenders. (I also have a frp bonnet but im going to bond the metal support from a stock on to it). My mate kindly informed me that because im removing a crumple zone item (metal guards) and replacing with Fiberglass ones, this is defect worthy =(. But apparently the rear wide fenders are ok, if they are bonded over stock items. Any info / suggestions / help would be great guys
  13. Sorry, bad descrition, the bushes im talking about are the bolts/bush thats pressed into the hub (where the old hicas rods bolts up) If that makes sense
  14. Do you mean redoing the interior, or replacing floorpan?
  15. The other alternative to a hicas lockbar is a S13 non hicas rear cradle, and some aftermarket toe rods. It will set you back a bit more ($150-$200 for cradle & $100 - $250 for toe rods). But the advantage is that it looks alot neater, gives you more adjustment and tightens the backend allot more. This is because often the hicas rubber bush thingys that you bolt the lock bar to are pretty flogged out and create allot of slop. And while your at it, you can always throw some solid cradle bushes into the mix ^_^
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