Russian

Just come across, the link to SEVS ruling for Stagea compliacing. Now, it clearly says "Build Date from 10/2001 to CURRENT" Does that mean we can bring in newer stageas with added mods, such as MP3 systems, and new LED clusters?????? I spent last 2 weeks in Moscow, and I've come across the newer 2004 - on models of Stageas. They seem to be improved in some things, plus its a fresher new look. It's be nice to start bringing them in!

NO DVD player, NO TV unfortunately.......but like anyone is going to use it D/N is day/night lighting

Its all quite simple to do yourself, just have to find removal guides for stereo and DVD unit, and follow the same to put it back in.

There's a choice in the menu to change from Miles to L/kms, which is great! My stagea was doing 8 l/100 on the highway for 100 kms!

NO modifications needed, a few little mis fits, but otherwise OK Make sue you get a full unit with a face cover from US! The CD Changer slot is located slightly lower, along with buttons Navi is working, everything runs, BUT I HAVE NO MAPS

Steering wheel is stock, I just installed a cruise control kit, with OEM buttons

Hey y'all! Just wanted to share what I've done to my stagea Basically just bought an infiniti G35 2003 model Stereo CD center console with navigation + DVD player and fitted it to my stagea. Apart form that I changed LEDs to red, just something for myself.

If you go to www.ebay.com <---- US EBAY Type up "G35 Navigation" Plenty of second hand units with english navigation units and radio that works here, as US frequencies are the same as here Basically infiniti, is same as skyline, just a re badge It costs a fair bit to get it here, but in the end its all worth it I reckon I wont have the Jap writing anymore, and will have the Fuel Consumption display as well....which is good...

Glad you guys liked it! Soon I'll be changing the CD RADIO and NAV lights, after my INFINITI G35 Setup comes in Then I'll upload some more steps on DIY

What's your bottom price? I might just keep them, JUST IN CASE

CENTER CONSOLE LED CONVERSION INSTRUCTIONS Just a follow up, with some instructions on how to remove the center panel, and change The heated seats button Lamps to LEDs, as well as the backlight for the shifter FISRT MAKE SURE THE SHIFTER IS IN DRIVE, FOR EASY ACCESS Here's what you have to do first, unclip the bottom plastic cover from underneath the shifter, slide it down and take out the metal C Clip Now the whole center panel should freely pop up and come off This is what it looks like from underneath, with everything attached to it, NOTE IN THE MIDDLE, THERE'S RED AND BLACK CABLE WITH A TWIST SOCKET BULB, THIS IS BACK LIGHT FOR THE SHIFTER (T10 BULB) Now once you've unclipped all the connectors and taken out the center panel, take out the Heated Steate switches, by undoing the clips with a flat head screw driver The switches have 2 clips on both sides, you have to take out the center part, with flat head screw driver again (Be careful not to break the plastic, its a little tricky, if you break it, dont worry, nothing that supe glue can't fix! You will find, there's 2 ligh bulbs on the switch, 1 12 volt hallogen bulb, and 1 LED (Both of them have 12V Source, LED Bulb has a resistor soldered onto it already) YOu have to remove the LED and the Light bulb out of the rubber housings, BUT REMEMBER THE POLARITY OF THE LED I've basically put 2 LED's instead of the original bulbs with 300 ohm resistors. BULBS HAVE THE VERY END TERMINAL, BLUE WIRE AS A NEGATIVE!!! I've also filed the LED's, to make the light spread more, and to make a bit more room, for the switch to work properly This is what it looks like with a RED LED for the backlight, and WHITE LED for the indicator switch GOOD LUCK

Thanks!! I've posted another topic of how to remove the cluster out Here's a link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...va-t286664.html

Just in case anyone of you guys decide to change the cluster or change bulbs or install new LED lights, here's a set of very easy to follow instructions, to remove the cluster Here's all the tools I used Now to get started , first undo the bolt underneath the bonnet release lever Now pull the bottom cover off, it should quite easily come out, as it sits on clips, which click in and out Take out 4 screws under the steering column (3 shown in pic) Now unclip the top cover of the column, in front of the cluster, and take off the bottom cover, as shown in the photos Underneath the steering column, you will find 4 x 10mm bronze colored bolts, that you need to unscrew, shown in photos The Indicator and Wiper Arms need to be removed for easy access, just squeeze 2 clips shown in the 1st pic. The wiper arm, also has 1 connector you have to take out, just Push onto the clip, with a screw driver Now undo a connector behind the mirror adjustment switch, behind the cluster fascia, on the left Now take out 2 connectors behind the cluster, by pushing the clips down with a screw driver, and slide connectors The cluster is now free, and should come out quite easily. Now to take the fascia off, just undo 2 bronze screws in the front and the back (Shown in photos) You're DONE!!! The cluster is out!!!

I'll be doing a CD Radio Nav conversion next week, so I'll take detailed pics Im sure they are just SMD LEDs (Little square ones), that just need to be changed over. I'll keep you guys posted

I am new to this forum ,but would like to share my method of converting the cluster from the original orange lighting, to new fresh LED lights I haven't taken any pictures of the process of taking the cluster out, and pulling it apart, but will be happy to explain how to, if someone gets stuck. Apart from that everything else I tried to capture BEFORE YOU TAKE THE ARROWS OFF, MAKE SURE YOU MARK OFF THE POSITION OF THEM, WITH A SMALL DOT, WITH A MARKER(I simply moves each arrow until it stopped in a certain direction and put a mark there) 1. TO TAKE THE ARROWS OFF, I USED 2 BUTTER KNIVES, SLID THEM UNDER THE ARROWS AND TWISTED THEM IN OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS, TO FORCE THE ARROW UP 2. SOMETHING TO NOTE!!! THE CLUSTER USES NEGATIVE TERMINALS TO SWITCH THE LIGHT ON AND OFF VOLTAGE IS QUITE LOW, COMPARING OTHER 12 V CLUSTERS!!! THE VOLTAGE IS 7.6 VOLTS, THEREFORE I USED 150 OHM RESISTORS!!! DO NOT USED RESISTORS WHICH SCOME WITH LEDS THAT YOU BUY OFF EBAY!! AS THEY ARE 680 OHMS, THE LIGHTS WILL TURN OUT TOO DULL!!! 3. THE LEDs I USED HAVE A HIGH CONCENTRATION OF LIGHT, SO I FILED THEM DOWN TO A FLAT TIP, WHICH MADE THE LIGHT SPREAD MORE (NOT THE ARROW LEDs) 4. BEFORE YOU UNPLUG THE CLUSTER OFF, MAKE SURE YOU TEST EACH SOCKET OF THE BULBS, WITH A VOLTMETER, TO FIND WHERE THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE TERMINALS ARE, AS LEDS NEED RIGHT POLARITY TO WORK 5. I ALSO CHANGED THE HIGH BEAM TO LED AND INDICATORS TO LEDS, BUT PLEASE NOTE, USE 300 OHM RESISTORS FOR THEM, AS THEY ARE 11.2 VOLTS Here's what I've done, to achieve RED arrows, or you can do it with just about any color LEDs Basically the prism you will find inside the cluster had 4 extensions coming out to 4 bulbs, to collect as much light as possible, what I've done is cut them and attached a red LED to the cut part of the prism. I just MELTED the led contacts into the plastic, by pushing onto it with a soldering iron, But you can hot glue it if you like As for the fuel/temp prisms, there's only 1 extension to the prism, which I also cut Here's the photos THIS PHOTO HERE shows that the RED light is reflected by the prism, and shot upward towards where the arrow is This is what I've done with the LED's Just prepared them, and put them in pairs of 2, to use in the positions of the bulbs As for the REVS dial, with a bit of red on the end, I used a red LED, so it slowly fades form white ro red in the end Here's what the cluster looks like from the front, with LEDs soldered in And this photo has both LEDs soldered to the circuit + the prism with led attached (I used a computer IDE cable, cus the wires from it, and extended the contacts to the back of the board) And here it is with power to it, and TAPE OVER THE RED LED, NOT TO GET THE RED MIXING WITH THE WHITE With facia on, and power on! AND THE FINAL RESULT!!!! GOOD LUCK IF YOU EVER GET TO DO IT,1 IT'S REALLY NOT THAT HARD