IM-32-FK

What I’m saying is that I never heard of a non gtr 34 coming with a cooling panel stock or factory option. Maybe they might’ve I don’t know

have a look at the other 2 stock rubber strips marked in blue. As you can see, they press against the cooling panel and leave marks. If the cooling unit panel isn’t there, the strip press against nothing therefore have no use. So Nissan was thinking ahead when they manufactured the cars, as they must’ve known people will install the panels in the future. Otherwise think about it, why else would they be there? Therefore that in itself directly infers that cooling panels do something. It might be to stop water and stop some air from going above the cooling panel so more of the air can be redirected between the cooling panel and the front bar towards the condenser and radiator. I tried to take a pic of it while the bonnet was closed but u can’t see shit in the photo

@DraftySquash @Duncan i misspoke, or this might be the other way. someone sent me a low res pic of it on It might completely close off the gap in red like in the second pic (second pic has gktech cooling panel on) .The 3 holes are for the plastic rivets used to secure down the front bar. The outer holes on the radiator side go underneath the condenser brackets If thats the case then there’s going to be no air going in through the grill between the bonnet and the bar for the radiator and condenser. Isn’t that bad? I mean less airflow to the radiator and condenser is all I’m saying

@DraftySquash @Duncan he's not talking about the part that sits against the radiator support, he’s talking about the lip that sits towards the front outside of the car. anyway I had a look at other cooling panels and came across this one https://justjap.com/products/carbing-radiator-cooling-panel-plate-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-t?variant=37829684134087&currency=AUD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Advanced feed&utm_content=Carbing Radiator Cooling Panel Plate fits Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T (Coupe)&srsltid=AfmBOoonzPDKqe9NgKi5U0AkFc2XvbXETGmNWvfNcyBT5DUZagMYHg9DZ70 if you take notice it’s the same shape. well thankfully the justjap listing has a description and it says : - Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T Coupe (M/T -07/2000) this means it’s specifically for a s2. S2’s have different front bars to s1 so that lip with the 3 holes are *probably* mounting points for the s2 bar. im not 100% sure but im almost certain it will still fit a s1 bar

I ended up getting a custom twin plate clutch - one plate is ceramic cushion button and the other is ceramic sprung. Rated for 800hp. Also got a pull to push conversion and I upgraded to a heavy duty clutch fork because the standard push fork is thinner and can warp easier. Also also, got redline mt90 gearbox oil with the smooth shifter additive. Should last me as long as the life of the car.

I had one too, bought my car with it on, did 40k km on it and sold it for 1k back in 2018. I’m not sure how many km it had on it before I bought the car. like you said, great clutch but the pedal feel wasn’t great - it felt too light and it was almost like the clutch only started to engage when the pedal was maybe 30-45% off the floor, unlike the organic heavy duty which pretty much start as soon as you start lifting your foot off the pedal. Is this the only real diff between the organic and ceramic twin plate sprung centre? I haven’t been hearing many good things about xtreme and their drivability, some say they rattle too much.

I don’t know why but they have two catalogues. Here is the other one I just found yes if I can I’m gonna get the sprung organic twin otherwise I’ll get the solid organic twin im just overwhelmed with the choices and brands. What about OS giken and exedy? I’m just looking to spend $2-2.5k

https://www.npcperformance.com.au/series/r34-rb25det-neo-gt-t/ If you think npc which one of these do you recommend for street use with sometimes rolling and drag races. The super heavy duty ceramic button kit one is a puk style single plate that says it holds 450kw. But it’s ceramic so I think it may not be suitable for street use. And is the billet light wheel flywheel worth it or should I just stick with normal flywheel that’s already in the car from exedy. also do you know up to what kw the xtreme twin plate organic solid center 230mm holds? In the future I’ll try to get like 700-800hp many years from now

This setup is costing me way too much that it’s kinda turning me off it. I just realised I’m gonna need a new twin plate clutch kit since my exedy single plate heavy duty clutch (610nm) won’t ever be able to hold 380kw. And now because it’s pull I gotta pay like $800 extra as opposed to a push type (pull to push conversion comes in the clutch kit). Does this sound normal? - $25k in parts only to reach 380kw power level? Plus $4k in labour and about 2k in tune? I swear to god I could’ve bought a brand new 2023 Mazda 3 for that price. I got no choice though, as I’m too deep now. I got my eyes on an Xtreme organic solid centre twin plate (kni23582-2g) that has a 1210nm rating. Costs $2300 plus maybe $700 in labour. I mean i might as well get something that can hold something like 750hp in the future. I never used xtreme but are they good enough?

That’s very true, that’s what they do. But my common sense says that since the wideband has a greater range of parameters than a narrowband, and it is much more diverse and comprehensive, then once you tune it and chuck the narrowband back on, the ecu won’t be getting the same values and readouts therefore the car may not run optimally. I might be wrong (probably), I’m not an expert I already got an oil temp sensor and gauge but not coolant pressure. I was never told to put one on. I was told by a reputable Melbourne tuner that at that power level their won’t be any issues with oil starvation.

Just an update. you are wrong. Factory gtt doesn’t not run a n1 pump. That’s false information. im also surprised no one mentioned that I should run oil and fuel pressure setup, along with a a wideband 02. I had to buy these as the tuner said he wouldn’t touch it without. I also decided to run a keypad. I’m just asking what buttons to run. - low boost -moderate boost -high boost - anti lag on/off switch - electric radiator fan runs 20% faster - 100% ign cut on 2 step for bangs and wanks - 2step at 3500rpm with a robust ign and fuel cut -2step at 4000rpm with a robust ign and fuel cut -extremely retarded timing -i want a spastic setting where the explosion is massive bangs and flames to be like hiroshima Nagasaki, what is this called? what are some of the more sensible features I should run? Cruise control and traction control? Anything else? what are some other features you recommend I put on the keypad? Arp head bolts on an unopened neo engine running 380-400kw at the engine. Thanks

@The Bogan Does the oil pump and pickup work based on revs or based on how much oil is in the sump or head. Because if I’m running the factory n1 oil pump, then getting a 6L sump won’t cause more oil in the head, simply because with the current 4.5L factory sump, it feeds and drains accordingly so there isn’t starvation or too much oil in the head. So with the 6L sump it’s going to feed and drain at the same rate, except theirs gonna be more oil in the sump. Is this correct? I don’t know if I explained it right but I hope you get what I’m saying

Sounds like too much work for now to be able to do it properly. I’ll do it a bit down the line. dose pipe told me the neo has factory n1 oil pump so I’ll stick with that.

The Lewis engine one looks nice, says it’s got a 6L capacity, it’s baffled and gated. But I was doing some research and it said that with higher capacity sumps, it causes the head have more oil, which can cook it. Please advise.

DET neo comes factory with n1 oil pump? Well that’s news to me (neo also has rb26 piston rods) what sump do you recommend ? also since the plenum is coming off I should change the thermostat too. Do you recommend oem or aftermarket? Lower or higher temp?