IM-32-FK

I dunno thats how the car runs and how it was tuned i guess, i even have to cut the edges of the rb20 coilpacks so they actually fit onto the mounts

Ill get whichever one is cheaper since i already paid too much on this shit already. Yes im using stock rb20 coilpack and loom. My friend also told me it could be my ignitor. But dont u think its strange it just started doing this as soon as i serviced the car? Also i dropped a couple of the spark plugs maybe about 20cm when i was trying to put it in the block, maybe a couple of them lost there stock measurment? Also maybe the grounding on some of the plugs are dirty, ill degrease them And about the afm, ill clean it out tomorrow but what do i use? When i had issues with air flow meter before it limited the revs to like 2300, this issue is way different it randomly putters every few seconds on idle and when i rev the car out the revs dont go up smoothly, it goes up a bit cuts off goes up a bit more

I wish i listened to you man... Ive already wasted 7 hours total so far on this shit. I feel so bad now i gotta buy the gapping tool tomorrow after work and see what happens. I hope it fixes the issue otherwise im gonna burn my car down

Guys i need your help. I changed the coilpacks and loom and it still didnt fix the issue so it must be spark plug issue. But ive always used the same spark plugs - ngk bcpr7es -11 . I know its a bit over the top but it always ran good with them. Im left with no choice but to gap them to 0.8. So you think this will fix the issue? It took me like 4 hours and alot of sweat and blood to pull everything apart and put it back together so im pretty pissed off. I didn't even go work today to do it so i lost out on alot of money anyway. Please tell me this will fix the issue otherwise i got no idea what it would be. I also used 10-40 penrite fully synthetic pro racing esther. If i gap them to 0.8 and it still doesnt fix the issue, then what else could it be? This shit is giving me anxiety i want my car running properly otherwise its always in the back of my mind Thanks

ok cool thanks. Like i said it misses every 2-3 seconds on idle and when you plant your foot down but doesnt miss when you are cruising it. Also, i really dont want to pay that much for yellow jackets, if i had a gtr then i would be more than happy to but its just a n/a so ill get stock coilpacks

Im just gonna change all the coilpacks and loom because they are all pretty worn out and damaged the coilpacks already have tape on them and some of the inlets on the plugs are broken. Do you think its still ok to drive the car for a few days? it wont damage the engine or anything like that?

Im after a coilpack loom for a rb20. send me a pm please thanks

i understand but on skylines they always f**k up. my mates 33 and his girlfriends 32 all did the same thing at one point.

So sick of these skylines and there shitty coilpacks. Yesterday i did a full service, basically changed the spark plugs, oil and oil filter. But when i was test driving the car, you could hear it misfiring. The cylinder seems like its still running, its just not getting a 100% proper connection. Basically you can hear the exhaust pop during idle, and as your taking off it slightly misses and when you flat out give it, it chugs back every 1000rpm or so. I checked the coilpack loom connections and made sure they were all plugged in...so does it seems like its one coilpack thats basically failed? its a f**king rb25 neo n/a so to unplug coilpack 2,3 and 4 you need to take off the god damn plenum extension and a few lines on top of it!

Ok but make sure you solder it back properly and not just some tied up wire shit

If you drill holes in it ill buy it $250 no problems man

Over a few months i would bleed the slave cylinder regularly and the clutch pedal would be fine, but now its starting to play up again. The clutch pedal is losing pressure when i initially start and drive the car but after about 15-20 minutes of driving it goes back to normal. What happens is the 'freeplay' on the pedal extends so you can push it down with one finger(maybe about 15cm) and it goes down quite a bit before the clutch actually engages and the pedal goes hard but after driving for like 20 minutes, the 'freeplay' on the clutch pedal shortens to maybe 5cm like how it always should be. I havent bleed it in over half a year at this point and im going to do it again, but does this sound normal to you? I shouldn't have to bleed the slave cylinder so often. Does this sound more like a problem with a worn throw out bearing? Also i was going to ask, what is the point of bleeding the master clutch cylinder? when im bleeding my slave do i bleed the master cylinder to? Which one do i bleed first and what is the procedure of bleeding the master cylinder and how do i know when the master cylinder has been bled out good? thanks

[moved to General Maintenance] http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460362-clutch-pedal-losing-pressure/

why would i be, if i didnt have any proof to back it up? i was talking shit

i was being sarcastic in all my posts, but you are too stupid to realise. Do you really think i give a shit about some $500 wheels? get a f**king life mate, its just rims on a f**king car

everyone has the stock gtr ones, i like my altia gtr wheels thanks

f**k, this shit again, really? ok let me ask you this...did all the r32 gtr's from 89-94 and the v-specs from 94-96 have the engravings around the center caps? did any of them have holes drilled around the center caps? Im just saying...if these are not n1 gtr wheels then ive got the rare special edition Altia Falken GTR wheels that were only produced for the Falken GTR team. Ultra Rare bro.

Ive had this problem ever since i bought my r32 gtst 2.5 years ago. When i fill up the water reservoir for the window squirter's and use the rear window squirter or the front windscreen squirter, the rear squirter wont stop leaking water until the water reservoir is completely empty. Doesnt matter which one i use, but only the single rear squirter just keeps leaking water, but if i dont use the squirters after refilling the reservoir, the water will stay in the reservoir. How could i go fixing this? thanks

want a perfect condition drivers side orange indicator r32 skyline gtst indicator!!! pm me here please

im gonna laugh my f**king ass off if they are str8 up im taking bids from now no lowballers plz also can you find any other mention of these wheels anywhere on the internet? if so please let me know, seriously i have posted most of the information about the rim throughout this topic already

this guy gets it i mean if they were copies then they would of put the markings around the center cap to copy the gtr wheel why would they make gtst wheels the size of gtr wheels when they can just make gtr wheels because they sought after more plus it makes sense they are n1 because of the drill holes make they 1kg lighter over all 4 of the wheels. They made it lighter because the n1 spec gtr is more race inspired then the standard gtr. And the nismo edition gtr is full race version because it doesnt even have a radio....thats minus 2kg off the overall weight...among other things they didnt put in it to reduce the weight also that guy saying that theres no nissan part number for the n1 wheel --- of course there's not, its limited edition rare otherwise everyone would buy the n1 edition so they only made a few hundred of them i suppose Are you positively annoyed friend? also to correct my former post, it doesnt say 'alta'...it says something else...also to the other guy who was saying something about the markings, here are a few more i found on the rim

alright i had a look for markings on the sunroof and i found this TEMPERLITE marking which i assume is tempered glass. What specific kind of tint should i get though...like household uv tint or normal car tint? what tint should i ask him to put on the sunroof?

thanks thats the stock gtr wheel i got the rare n1 spec gtr wheel

here are all the markings inside of the rim, plus have a look at the picture i posted in the initial post of the topic which was on the outside of the rim

The center caps write N1 ALTA RACING WHEELS... i googled Alta and they make rims