IM-32-FK

thats what im thinking...whats the best setup with a rb25de neo? which turbo would work best with it? standard r34 gtt turbo? also what would the life expectancy be on it you reckon? also e85 f**king stinks, it is really neccassary?

So when i initially bought my r32 it was 186kw atw with standard gear, just hi flow factory turbo and cat back 3 inch. But i was on a p plates and had to get a lousy non turbo 25 neo. But im off my p plates now and i was to make it turbo again. But i already wasted too much with the initial swap. I dont want to fork out thousands again. To get a s1 rb25det put into a r32 gtst with rb25de neo wiring, how much am i looking to spend? lets say 1.25k for the engine, 1000 for the swap and another 500 for the wiring. Does this cover it? thats still a shit ton of money that i will probably never get back. Then how much can i sell it for, 10k? I got a gtr kit on the car with everything and it also has a sunroof, gtr wheels etc. Or maybe i just dont give a damn and i should just turbo my current n/a neo engine. I dont give a damn if i blows but you reckon i can still reckon i can get a good 3 years with it before i gives way? how much am i looking to spend then? thanks bros.

You know those black masked lights on the 4 door r32's? do those lights fit a r32 coupe gtst straight on without any mending? if not is it worth changing the brackets to make it fit? thanks

This might sound like common sense, but have you tried moving the tps? how you tilt it a bit and notice your rev's change? i had the same problem with mine for a while and i just kept tilting the tps and playing with that little screw valve on top of it and it eventually got it to sit on 900

Lol, why waste your time with ECU codes. Your problem is your air flow meter. r32 skylines are notorious for having shitty ones, you dont need to spend $150 for it lol...u can buy it for around $50 used from anyone (check facebook pages). Get the green label AFM. Before you do however, first turn on the engine, then unplug the air flow meter. If their is no change in idle then thats your problem 100%. Check that your intercooler and intake piping are still connected too, because that can cause the rev limiter issue as well Also, u need to do the Hicas diagnostic test to determine your other problem. Its f**king easy and it works. When my power steering and speedo stopped working, i did the hicas test myself and found the problem. What you do it put your car in neutral and then turn the key to on, then after one second turn the engine on. Then immediately hook your steering wheel from one side to the other at least 5-10 times while pumping your brakes at the same time. Now look at the hicas light on your cluster. Youll notice it flash. If it flashes once, it means that its working fine. Once you see it flash twice fast, then that implies what the problem is. Look below 1. HICASsolenoid R.H. 2. HICASsolenoid L.H. 3. Cut-off valve 4. Power Steering solenoid 5. Vehicle Speed sensor 6. Steering anglesensor 7. Steering Neutral positon sensor 8. A/T: Parking Brake Sensor M/T: Clutch sensor 9. A/T: Inhibitor sensor M/T: Neutral sensor i also like to mention that i had the problem of my car randomly turning off while i was driving. It was my battery that just needed charging. It did it like 3-4 times in a couple of weeks. But it may be unrelated to your cause. But maybe just maybe both your AFM and battery have clonked it. Just a suggestion.

it is silver, that red vent is the one im gonna give you

with the switch on the drivers side console? maybe not all of them have it, it may be factory option

The darker colors make them look much more aggressive. White is a passive color

I know the r32 skylines had folding mirrors but my friends 33 didnt have it and i know s15's dont have it either. Not sure about 34 though

what happens majority of the time when they "fail"

wont go lower than 300. id rather keep it. $300 final offer

But what will really happen if the slip on spacers "fail". I checked all the nuts, and they were all good. Would the nuts just break off a single stud at a time? or will all the studs break or nuts come off at once? Because u can still drive your car with 4 studs. As long as the tyre is not at risk or coming off then it can wait till this weekend and ill buy some bolt on spacers.

yeh sometimes i hear a loud thump coming from the wear wheels . ill take em off

I bought 5mm slip on ones from a tyre shop and they have a little play on them when you sit it on the hub and the spacer itself has different cuts and shapes for the bolts to fit through. I dont even know what material it is to be honest, but it doesnt feel anything like steel, it kinda feels flimsy. Im just using stock rims. I just noticed the wheel got cambered when i put them on and i like it that way but wont drive it if its dangerous. Im using rays 30mm closed nuts so i should have 25mm for the bolt to sit in the nut

I bought some shit temp tyres for the rear wheels, and when i sat it on the spot the tyres were barely smoking up, next to nothing. Left a shit load of black dust. Does this mean they are retreads?

n1 headlights? you mean the projector ones? are they really worth that much?

$325 CALL OR TXT ME 0434 418 413

i know but for someone elses bullshit i have to pay. Gotta get the whole quater panel painted for a couple of dents...

I ran over a small piece of timber that was on the road and the f**king thing hit my quarter panel twice and left 2 dents maybe about 5-8cm long and stripped the paint on the rear quarter panell :@:@:@:@:@ are these dents easy to fix? how much would it cost me?

$325 come pick it up everything

bump

i wasnt even awarre the clevis was ment to be in line with the push rod, but every time i played with the stopper in the first picture, i had to re tighten the nut on the rod tin the 2nd picture too. Im just going to leave it like this, its got at least 6 months warranty anyway. Right now ive got alot of free play and the pedal feels soft now.

man, what the hell is going on. It was hard with little freeplay when i was going to work this morning and now its soft as shit with a ton of freeplay now. Im done with it. Im just gonna ride it out and see what happens. 3rd gear is knocking anyway. Thanks for all the help

Im not sure which one is lithium grease but i got this thick red one and i also got silicon spray

Ok i played around with it and got it working better. I can still hear a light metal grinding sound though when i initially push down the pedal. Can i put some grease where the clevis rod is and some on the clevis too? Hopefully that will finally fix it