IM-32-FK

So what do you recommend i should do? Didnt smell any clutch after driving for half an hour

Couldn't find any cracks but i *may* have fixed the problem. I pulled back the bolt on the clutch switch nearly all the way back and tightened it. Pumped it a few times and drove it around the block and the sound was gone. I also noticed even though i pulled that bolt back quite a bit, i still havent got any free play on the clutch pedal. Does this mean my clutch is always disengaged so it might cause it to slip and burn my clutch eventually? What else can i play with to loosen up my clutch pedal a bit so i have at least half an inch of freeplay? here are a couple of pictures

i figured out that the master cylinder and the bracket it sits on that connects to the firewall in your engine bay is pushing in and out as i pump the clutch pedal. Already tightened the 2 nuts on it but it still moves out when i pump the pedal. How would i go fixing this?

I bought a spare bar a few months ago incase mine got smashed, but now its just taking up too much room in my garage. The bottom bit of the bar has been cut off(look at the picture), one of the side mounts has been cut off a bit(where the screw sits). The previous owner used timber screws to hold the lip to the bar, so i taken it off and will give you the bar with the lip not connected. One vent is also slighty broken(see picture) . All it needs is very minor bogging work. Chasing $400 It is a plastic genuine bar. Located liverpool sydney. Can ship if you organise

I had this issue come up yesterday, when i press the clutch pedal all the way in, then release it, it makes a loud single clicking sound. Only happens as soon as i release the pedal. I checked underneath and used some silicon lube spray on the large round spring and some on the piston rod that goes into your firewall but after pumping it a few times, it comes back. I also noticed the little plastic things where the round pedal spring sits are broken It makes this sound 8/10 times i use the clutch pedal. Recently had my master and slave replaced. I checked the welds above and they didnt look cracked. What can it be?!? I made a little video so you can exactly see what is going on.

This morning i was driving and after about a minute of driving i had to rev out first gear to about 4.5k-5k because someone cut me off and i had to accelerate fast to dodge the car. At this point the water temp guage was about 1/3 of the way(halfway is normal running temp) . I was wondering if doing this harmed or damaged the engine in any way because i revved it pretty high on first gear before i reached optimal temperature. Its only a non turbo 25de with around 110k. Any insight would be appreciated thanks

nah, plain discs arnt cheap. they still cost around $250 brand new, slotted and drilled only cost $100 extra. so you might as well get slotted/drilled discs...

can you really generalise drilled and slotted discs like that? maybe if you abuse them for a long time they would crack but if you brake hard here and there then it shouldn't be a problem? i mean if i take my car to royal national park and gun it up there, will they crack? im just after street use and occasional hooning

But honestly, for street use, what is the best kind of rotor? standard, slotted, drilled or slotted and drilled? Came across some slotted and drilled brakes for a decent price and im not sure if they are good enough. I heard they tend to wear out much quicker but are better than the others in terms of performance. Im only going to use it on the street but i dont want to replace discs and pads for another good few years , will i be alright with drilled and slotted brakes?

I was pulling up to a 7/11 servo and right at the entrance there was this massive pothole...i mean this was at least 20cm deep...i drove over it at around 10-15km/h and the bang noises the suspension made scared me. I noticed that my steering wheel felt a little more loose than usual ever since this happened. So i was wondering what are the things i should check on my car to see if the pothole did any damage to the car...like the radius rods, control arms, etc... what is the list of things i should check because if anything did happen im gonna ask 7-11 to pay for the damages... thanks

when i drained the gearbox oil in my car, it was very thin and water like, virtually clear. My rb20 box was still going strong though i only crunched it accidently a couple of times in a year

What is it that people do that mainly destroys a gearbox? dropping gears? flat shifting? crunching gears? how is this related to the clutch? What are some of the signs of a box that is on its way? edit: please move to drivetrain and transmission board

lol i got my car resprayed the same color so when i get chips, there is just a crevice and the same color paint underneath Ive been seeing these become very popular in just a couple of months...someone must of been giving them out for free lol.

I had a few soda cans explode in my back seat and pour over the rear carpet. Usually i wouldnt care since it could be cleaned up with carpet cleaner, but is there any threat of rust starting from underneath the carpet? It was all schewps lemonade, about 3 cans lol and it was soaking in for about half a day

i used the bar on my hydraulic jack...it has a hole on one end, use that!

the car still wobbles left to right when you go over those dodgy potholes, crevises, incles and declines etc...u know what i mean? i still believe they can run better i just need to know the right answer. Im gonna try to increase the dampers to hard and change my tires as i need to anyway. Also i want to know the best spring lengths and the length of the adjuster at the bottom. In time i guess

i adjusted the spring, i had to raise it a bit. Isnt that how u are supposed to change the height? move the spring up and down? i moved up the spring because it was sagging to the days. Someone told me here to change the adjustment at the bottom where the single bolt sits, but people at tyre shops told me to adjust the spring, so i took their word. Its sitting on r32 gtr stockies which is 225/50/16 and there is maybe half an inch gap between the arch and the wheels. Whats to point of buying coilovers if you are gonna leave it on stock settings? seriously, i think i f**ked up, because the ride still isnt smooth, you can still feel it pretty hard going over potholes. The dampers are on softest setting too. Oh and parramatta rd too...it was a nightmare especially between parramatta and auburn

so basically keep the stock spring height, just adjust the bottom bit of the coilover and the button on top for the dampers? damn, im not sure what the stock spring height was.

i actually adjusted most of it with the bottom part but when i was lining it up to the right mm i did the spring too a bit too...what does it do? sorry im not 100% sure what the adjusters on the coilovers too..i just want the exact same settings on all the coilovers

i know i was thinking i should of payed $100 extra and got the gold ones with that extra canister on the side. When i was adjusting the coilovers i was measuring them up with my older ones ... do i adjust the bottom bit of the coilver or do i adjust the spring for height? i cant really remember what i did...also the button on top of the coilver soft damper = bouncy ride and hard damper = stiff ride? I JUST WANT BEST COMFORTABLE RIDE WITH LOW HEIGHT! its a r32 gtst by the way

I bought a new set of BC coilovers (the red ones not gold ones) and i was wondering if it is worth it taking it to a suspension place so they can full adjust the springs and dampers for the best nice, low and comfortable ride. Is it worth the price? pedders charge too much, like $140 and other places like big o tyres only $50. Or should i do them myself? ride now it seems ok, i just really adjusted the dampers to soft but it can be better. Any help, advice and tips would be appreciated. thanks

Come pick it up from livo for $50 only honestly i dont want it or need it, and $50 is very cheap. It came off a non turbo engine but im 99% sure they also fit the gt-t r34. Im not sure about the GTR though, check for yourself.

nah i run the rb20 ecu and yes it has vct im pretty sure

Currently ive got a rb25de neo in a r32 gtst and i was wondering if i can drop a r33 rb25det in there, will i need to change the wiring like i had to with the neo? because that was a big job and it cost me quite a bit. My current wiring job should be compatible with a r33 25, right?

What is the best way to put on a roof spoiler. What material. I mean it is very light and flimsy and i dont want it flying off the roof when im driving at 100km/h lol...