IM-32-FK

ok i bought a plazmaman inlet with a 74 dbw, but that means i need to buy a link g4ret and also need to buy a pedal and mount so it comes down to paying like $500 more compared to throttle cable setup. it better be worth it.

just a couple more questions: - i was the told the r32 tps is better than 33/neo tps because it has a 'longer/bigger/larger' pulse and that i should run that instead - was also told to run a slytech 2 wire universal iacv too instead of the stock iacv on a plazmaman plenum because the coolant spring in the stock iacv can cause problems anyone care to advise?

@Dose Pipe Sutututu ive currently got this blitz sbc solenoid, but i might as well get a mac valve. I see alot of brands copy the original MAC design down to the colour, like innovative and turbosmart. Which one do you prefer? the innovative ones says its 'high resolution. what fitting style do you use? oh and also i used to work in yagonna, right by birrong automotive too. I got them to replace my speed sensor and clutch master cylinder way back like nearly 10 years ago

like this setup?

well should i use 3 or 4 port solenoid for the external wastegate?

@Murray_Calavera So also I got a blitz 3 port solenoid. Does this mean I connect the 2 factory solenoid wires to the solenoid? and since it’s a plug and play ecu, I don’t need to wire it straight to the ecu? For example, so something like this has 2 wires coming out of it, those 2 wires connect to the factory solenoid wires in my case of the pnp g4+? https://www.efisolutions.com.au/3-port-mac-valve-boost-control-solenoid

Ok it’s settled, no need to blow more money than I’ve already have. but the idea of high and low boost baffles me. Like I said it’s for street use. I’m going to do full send pulls now and then (probably every time I drive it) but not continuous like on the track. Is high boost meant to be unreliable, unsafe for the motor? I just want max psi without blowing the motor or f**king anything. also I’m guessing the link can is plug and play onto the ecu, just needs 12v and ground?

Nah I mean I will only switch between two boost settings, won’t ever adjust boost settings of my own. I’ll keep it on high boost most of the time, so I can decimate all, destroy all, at any given time. I’ll flick it onto low boost when my pockets are feeling empty. as far as can gauges go, I see it’s like a power fc hand controller. Really, I don’t need to see displays to things I already have readings for. Oil temp(defi), water temp(defi), rpm, speed, boost…I don’t need a display to see my knock sensor. If I get a can gauge I’m gonna have it on boost display, but unlike the boost controller u can’t change boost settings(or can you?) can you actually change boost and other settings on a link can? Because come to think about it I would like to know what my intake air temps are as well as my voltage

3076r with my setup is like 18psi low and 21-23psi high. That’s why I bought a link 4 bar boost map sensor because neo standard boost sensor can only handle up to 18psi I will never control the boost and I’ll never adjust boost levels, but I like knowing what my peak hold is. Besides, boost controllers give u virtually 100% accurate digital boost readings, my defi is a dial style gauge, and even though it’s a digital gauge where the vacuum runs to a small electronic module then to the gauge through wires, it seems to always show lower boost readings. like I said, it’s gonna cost me $400 either way. So it’s either a missile switch or a reputable boost controller with displays

@GTSBoy @Murray_Calavera @Dose Pipe Sutututu @Duncan im sick of buying stuff, finding out it’s not what I need and then having to resell it. I must’ve lost over $2k doing this so far with this build. talked to my builder about the boost settings and mentioned how you guys said it’s best to do ecu boost tuning through a (missile) switch and he said that takes a couple of hours or so and will need a road test too, so he said he’s gonna charge me $400 for that OR he said he tunes the boost for free with a e boost 2. I want to know what my peak boost will be + I can get a e boost for $300-400 used so I’ll probably go with that. so I’m thinking with the solenoid setup, is it best to go 3 or 4 port? Also eboost2 needs to run and plugged into the solenoid right, not to the g4+ and the stock factory solenoid wiring not used? Also also, I’m finding it hard to figure out how the stock IACV is compatible with the plazmaman inlet, like it says it is in the product description. Sure you run the big hose from the iacv to the inlet but what happens with the open part of the iacv now, the part that has the gasket that sits against the factory collector intake. builder was saying to go slytech universal IACV instead, because apparently the stock one causes issues because of the coolant valves or something. so tell me how this can mount onto that!

@Dose Pipe Sutututu @Murray_Calavera i bought a Mishimoto Performance Aluminium Fan Shroud Kit 14 inch single fan to mount onto my mishimoto alloy radiator to allow the intake cross over piping to clear to go to the stock plenum, but now im going ffp i dont need the cross over intake piping anymore. Builder said he already installed it. How do these good branded electric fans compare to the stock viscous clutch with gktech fan? for street use . "The Mishimoto Nissan Skyline R34 aluminum fan shroud kit will considerably improve engine cooling functions and the overall performance of your vehicle. All Mishimoto fan shrouds are significantly lighter than standard fan shrouds, and are a direct OEM fit. A Mishimoto fan shroud will effectively drive out heat from the engine bay, while delivering a significant amount of cool air to the Nissan Skyline radiator. The fan shroud will also secure the fan blades in place, which will prevent damage to other essential components in your engine. Direct fit for the Nissan Skyline R34 Fits both stock and Mishimoto Nissan Skyline R34 Radiator Maximizes airflow Includes one 14" fan and all mounting hardware Polished aluminum finish Mishimoto Lifetime Warranty"

thanks for the offer dude but currently i dont trust myself at all to tune it, i might just end up blowing something in the motor. in the future, with my current setup, ill probably just need to change the turbo and do some minor internal work to get maybe 500-600kw. I think i might tune it myself then (maybe)

i dont know absolutely everything about cars and exactly how it all works, although id like to think i still know alot. It seems like a very long learning process that'll take years

labour is surprisingly cheap at $3000. the tune however, is 2.2 for a flex fuel tune with boost control settings so about 13-14k for parts getting the best parts though like garett, 6 boost, plazmaman, bosch etc

i might as well get a ffp too since ive sunken so much money into the car. $2100 with slytech iacv, r32 tps, 3 inch tb and a longer accelerator cable i calculated the total cost after i sell the stuff i know i can sell(nistune, power fc, walbro etc) and it comes down to $18175!!! and i bet im still going to need to spend another $500-1k on some little things that pop up. Is this normal to get like 360-400kw? too late now, cant go back😬

Link product page says “ A faster Micro controller - meaning your engine will run smoother, accelerate faster and act more responsively. An upgraded Communications Chip - sees download speeds 16 x faster than G4+ 512 Megabytes of data logging - this is over 100x the size of prior Link ECUs” it states there you can get better power and response from the g4x. I’m guessing the other features just makes tuning easier for the tuner, but doesn’t affect the final outcome?

So a quick update, the G4x turned out to be a g4+, an older model. He was kind enough to send me back $250. Are there limitations for the user with the g4+ compared to the x?

Nah there was one guy running like 800hp with stock neo cams. and yes you do need head studs because the stock ones start to stretch around 300-400kw

What is the highest safest reliable kw I can get out of an unopened det neo with only arp head bolts? Is 400kw pushing it?

So you’re pretty much saying terminate the stock solenoid wiring into the blitz plug and plug it into the solenoid? if I want a high boost and a spastic boost setting, is that done with a missile switch?

Guys I bought a Link G4X along with a link IAT and 4 bar map sensor. I can’t wait I’m so excited!! the product page says you need to run stock wiring for the boost solenoid but can’t run the stock solenoid. My current blitz solenoid runs straight to the boost controller with its own wiring. How would I go by this running a boost controller? also the blitz dual sbc controller is very old now, but is it enough to suffice? It still has gain control, warning and limiter and even scramble boost. But I mostly like it because it shows my peak boost.

Actually that’s one thing I don’t want. I actually want ign cut for flames and higher boost and anti lag because im gonna send it eastern creek rolling race and drag

I know that . I’m just asking you if the revs can hold without any fuel in the cylinder, like the quote was saying

That quote said it completely stops injecting fuel outright, not reducing it, and that there’s no combustion.So I was wondering how it can hold on the 2step without fuel

I’ve had the hose come off the actuator but the boost controllers limiter stopped it going past 0.86bar. Doesn’t the vacuum open up the wastegate through the actuator? Or can the actuator still operate with atmo without a vacuum boost line?