IM-32-FK

Speaking of which, I actually love the loud spool sound and I’m actually thinking of sending my turbo in to get a t51r mod done on it? How’s the spool sound on gt3076r?

isnt the air density and pressure meant to be regulated before the turbo? so the compressor doesnt blow unlimited air into the engine?

Plat Pro is $2300 and Elite is $3300. Its alot of money for the power level im going for. Besides, Nistune has anti lag support im pretty sure. Im gonna get it tuned at JEM anyway, and they are reputable nistune tuners. on the nistune page they have the r35 gtr and the hpx n1 maf sensors, but they both say you shouldnt use it for piping more than 3.5 inch when the turbo inlet is 4 inch. In this case, can stepping down the turbo inlet piping cause restriction problems and bottlenecking? Im thinking of getting the r35 gtr maf https://www.nistune.com/index.php/nistune-shop/maf-equipment

Hey all, Im trying to get a 300-360kw e85 setup on a unopened rb25det neo, and i have it booked in for the stop to install some parts but mainly to fabricated full intake piping. Here is what im putting in: Nistune with Zeitronix flex fuel sensor wiring hardwired into it zeitronix e85 ethanol content analyser kit used original z32 AFM Garrett GT3076R T3 .82 v band rear Turbosmart 45mm wastegate hypergate gen V Walbro 535 fuel pump bosch 1000c injectors static flow turbosmart fuel pressure regulator fpr800 plazmaman fuel rail (top feed i think like stock) plazmaman 600x300x76 bar and plate intercooler(rated up to 800hp) shitty stainless steel exhaust manifold i may or may not use Other misc like MLS gaskets, exhaust wrap, turbo oil and water lines etc 1 - I wont be running a well-branded forward facing plenum or a exhaust manifold because you are looking at at least $1500 a piece for those. I can get a shitty copy cheap ffp but are those worse or better than the stock plenum? I heard the one piece ffp have shit low end power, so its the best to get plazamaman top half only for good all round power. Will the stock intake manifold and collector be good enough when running a non return flow intercooler setup for 300-360kw? Also is a cut and shut ffp setup on the stock plenum a better option than stock side feed? 2- Since im gonna run Nistune(cant afford $2000+ ecu), i will need to run a AFM. Heard z32 is garbage nowadays and besides its pretty big so it will limit pre compressor housing piping. Im almost sure the 3076r turbo inlet is larger in diameter than the z32 afm (inlet is 100m and afm is 80mm IIRC). Is the HPX-N1 card reader AFM drastically better(they cost about $400). What is the best AFM option in this case? 3- Do you highly recommend getting a MLS headgasket or at least change the head studs? (headgasket change will cost loads but head studs can get taken out and put in one by one without removing anything else on the head[[I THINK]]). If i were to change the headgasket, since the head components need to be removed, what head components do you recommend i buy for something around $2000 that can make the engine push more power and better reliability? 4- Can a non return flow intercooler setup be run on the r34 non gtr engine bay without cutting any chassis? 5- Can i run without a BOV? if not, which BOV makes that loud whistle noise (i cant be any clearer, the whistle noise like the referees in sports use lmao) 6- Is it okay to block BOTH the PCV piping going from the head to the plenum and the PCV running to the intake pre compressor housing? So can the head vent itself proper with a atmo catch can with the little filter on top with both PCV blocked off? 7- Is it better to wastegate the stock exhaust manifold or the turbine housing? 8- Is it okay to plumb the wastegate screamer back into dump(heard the fines were HUGE for atmo screamers) this is all the questions i can think of from the top of my head. Is there anything else i should know? Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you

Ah I see, the earthing was travelling through the lights wire, passing through the globe and and grounding where the grounding prong makes contact with the cigg socket. also I did have a fuse problem, as it would blow a fuse as soon as I changed the blown fuse lol

Hmm… because controller power was connected to socket wire and ground was connected to light wire. Maybe that’s why. I mean if both the wires are live, then why would previous owner connect controller ground to live rim light wire? And even then, why would boost controller work?

How? It’s common for people to use the cigg wires for live ignition. It’s no different to connecting it to another ign wire. In this case, connecting it to cigg wires made the cigg socket work, but wouldn’t light up the light rim.

Read the post above, my man😊

Just reviving a dead topic, but after removing the boost controller wires from the ciggarette lighter wires, the rim light on the lighter is working.

Finally after years of owning the car, I removed the HUD display the previous owner installed. But there’s a lot of glue residue underneath. There are hundreds of products that can probably remove it like ph neutral spray cleaner, carby cleaner, contact cleaner, brake cleaner, petrol, metho, turps, bug and tar remover, goo gone etc but I don’t want to try anything because of the fear I might discolour the dash. So what do you recommend to use to remove glue and glue residue from dash without damaging it?

God dammit, I came so close. I always take pics when I disassemble parts but here have a look, I was so close to take a pic of the motor out and what was inside, but I didn’t! (Notice how the last pic has no screws on it) Half the reason I took it out was so the carby cleaner wouldn’t seep into the motor. From what I remember, there was definitely a small spring maybe 3cm in length as well as a small rubber like cylinder with a lip that couldn’t be more than 1cm in length that both came out when I took it off.

I’ve seen that and that guy never said anything about the motor. I took the motor out and cleaned it out with electric contact cleaner. I thought while it’s out I might as well clean it. I guess I shouldn’t have.

I cleaned it out thoroughly, but when I took the motor out a spring and something else fell out of it. I remember putting them both back in, but I’m not sure if there is some procedure to do it properly. If I take the motor out, can you tell me how to assemble it back ? Also I never used any gasket sealant on the gasket, as there was none before

Ok so I got it, it’s the whole IACV unit I need to replace. I’ll let you know how it goes.

Oh and btw, this is how it sounds before the buzzing humming noise comes on. If you listen to this video and the video in my initial post, you’ll definitely hear the difference in sound

Hey is there by any chance that it could be the intake manifolD gaskets, either from top runners to bottom runners or bottom runners to block- even though the car runs perfect? I was looking at various threads on google for similar issues and some said pcv valve but most said intake gaskets. I removed the pcv valve and blew into it from both sides with my lips sealed around it and air didn’t come out from either side. Also if I am to change the intake gaskets, I’ve already got MLS ones. I was checking the service manual and it says nothing about putting gasket glue anywhere even the coolant port. What do you Recommend I do?

So you reckon I should replace the whole IACV? Also if the valve isn’t closing properly, wouldn’t that mean it would idle higher than usual? It sits tight at 900rpm.

Could you tell me which hoses I could possibly have a vacuum leak from? I checked the main input hose going from the j pipe to the iacv looks good

If you watch the video, you’ll notice a loud buzzing sound, especially when I’m nearing the IACV. Hey, it might of been around before, but now the buzzing sound is even overriding the sound of the engine. Is it really loud, enough that I can hear it when I’m sitting in my car even with the exhaust sound. I don’t have a consult cable. Happened around the time I did multiple coolant radiator flushes, changed the alternator. Someone said it could be cause of the alternator, cam belt or power steering belt too tight but I checked and they are good. When I unplug the iacv motor, the sound still remains.

For the past few months I’ve had this buzzing humming sound coming from the IACV motor area on the 25detneo. Only starts when coolant temp goes up to about 70degree from cold start. When you turn the car off, it still sounds for a couple of seconds with a ‘dying’ sound. Here’s a video of what I mean car still runs perfect like nothings wrong. I cleaned out the IACV many months ago including the motor(I used contact electrical cleaner for the motor). I could’ve sworn I put it back together how it came out. I did that thing were you get a hose and put one side in your ear and the other side where the sound is coming from and when I touched it against the IACV motor it was the loudest. does this sound like a IACV motor dying? Or could it be something else related to it? Cheers

Yes the cigarette lighter fuse blows a split second after it lights on

Yes, you are right. The cigg socket has a power and ground wire going to it whereas the cigg light got just has a power wire and a prong that grounds itself to the cig socket when it’s pushed against it. The cig light is always turned on because it turns on when the key is on the ON position, just like the screen for the climate control on r34. I would like to mention, when I make it sit naturally like in the pic, the light doesn’t turn on or react. Only when I ground it to other parts of the metal cigg socket, will it turn on for a split second before shorting again. What does this mean? Do you think the issue is the socket for the light bulb itself? Maybe it is f**ked? Maybe I should order a new one.

How sure are you? I checked the wiring, the pos and neg of the boost controller are directly bridged to the pos and neg of the cigarette socket. I’m also trying it with a t5 led globe not those standard halogen t5 bulbs. The socket for the light housing and cigarette housing are seperate. The light housing grounds onto the cigarette housing with a large pin that pushes against the cigarette housing. If I’m grounding it after turning the key to ON, will it cause it to short? id like to mention that the cigarette lighter socket still works, like I can put a USB charger in it and it’ll work, but as soon as I put the light in the socket it shorts out. Also I’m running nothing but the reverse camera directly to accessory wire for the head deck

Usually with all the skylines I’ve owned issues at 2500rpm always seemed to be related to the air flow meter. Usually when the AFM is dead it limits your revs to 2500. Your one might be dirty as f**k inside it, or you may be even using the wrong one. So clean it with contact cleaner or afm cleaner. Just make sure one side of the afm has the mesh on it though, because removing that also causes problems. Also check the afm wiring, it might be loose or come off. I would also clean the inside of the boost solenoid.

Hey all, with the lockdown in effect, I thought I’d fix some things in my car. I was trying to get the light around the cigarette lighter rim to work, but it kept shorting out. I figured out that the previous owner connected the blitz dual sbc boost controllers positive red and ground black wire straight to the positive and negative wire of the cigarette lighter socket. I guess when I now connect the light to the socket it’s shorting out because it’s going over amperage(15A). so I was wondering where to connect the positive and negative for the boost controller. I was thinking maybe to the head deck radio loom. cheers