IM-32-FK

I was looking through the r34 service manual and they got lazy. They don’t give instructions on how to replace parts in the engine bay. They just give torque settings for certain things and don’t even give you the removal and replacement instructions or the order to put the bolts in etc. but on the r33 service manual they do. I need to change the intake manifold gaskets and the r33 manual Gives you detailed instructions on how to do it and what order to put the bolts in with diagrams but the r34 Manual doesn’t. Can I just follow the instructions on the r33 Manual to change the gaskets on my r34? for example here is a snippet from the r33 manual to change the intake manifold gasket. ON THE R34 manual I can’t find that. Am I missing something? Can anyone have a quick look on the r34 service manual to see if I missed it? cheers

Thanks a lot for that. If anything you can get plazmaman 600 300 76 intercoolers for really cheap like $500, but then I’d need to spend another $500 at least to get pipe work post intercooler. I think I now have everything and am ready to put it all in. I don’t plan on running a catch can to turbo intake, so I’ll run the two breathers on rocker cover to a catch can that vents to atmosphere. And I also bought a pcv blanking bung, so I don’t get oil into the plenum. Is it safe to run it like this? It won’t cook the engine? also I got a z32 afm but I heard the r35 gtr afm cards are ‘better’. I’m pretty sure with my setup I’m going to be pushing maybe 18-22psi on a 3076r. Obviously r35 afm is better but will the z32 suffice?

The blitz rf is 620 x 266 x 76mm. I was thinking maybe 600x300x100 but that might lag and that’s the last thing I want. Otherwise I’ll just go the size you mentioned. What do you think is best?

That’s good to know. I need to get the dump pipe v banded, the stock ex mani external wastegated, need new piping fab done post compressed housing so I’ll just see if he can also do me a non return setup. A guy sent me pics of how u can do non return flow without cutting anything. But I would need to cut the exit port on the blitz intercooler so it’s straight rather than coming down 180 degree. Why didn’t blitz just make it straight and put 180degree silicon hose instead? anyway stupid question but do the internals of the intercooler make it a return flow or is it just the exit port? Like if I cut the port and make it straight then will the intercooler be a non return intercooler and act accordingly? cheers

Wow, really? I’ve got the setup where the exit port on the intercooler(cold side) has a 180 degree bend to the bottom and the piping goes underneath the intercooler. Are you saying I could 300kw+ with it? I’m looking to get about 310-320kw from my setup so I’d have that extra 20kw if I can. btw how does the stock headgasket and head studs hold up at 320kw unopened neo? Big job to pull apart the head and change the gasket that’s all. cheers

Hi all, as I’m aware, but I might be wrong, the gtrs run a non return ffp setup stock. But on my GTT, I was wondering if there is any way to run non return piping post intercooler without having to cut out some metal around the battery area.(even if I retain the stock intake manifold or go ffp) Is it possible? I just don’t want to cut metal out of the engine bay because I want the body to be stock as possible, but will if I have to because it is said the return flow piping usually restricts at 300kw. cheers

If I’m to do that, is it okay for the bolt and nut to be in contact with the ecu? I just don’t want it surging or shorting out. I was thinking u can get those raised plastic cylinder things to act as a spacer between the ecu and the nut and bolt

Ah okay. I can drill new holes for the mounting points but is the loom plug opening smaller or bigger than the neo? Cause either way I can grind it to be bigger and it doesn’t matter if the 33 ecu opening is bigger, if it leaves a gap that’s not a problem

Why not?

Guys I said f**k it and bought a nistune for $350. The guy I bought it off didn’t have a case for it, I was wondering if any non neo ecu case eg 33 ecu will house the neo motherboard and nistune chip nice and snug. I only ask cause neo ecu‘a usually go for $150+ and r33 ecus are only $50. also unrelated question: is the oil pan bolt meant to have a rubber washer on it? Cause mine just have a metal washer ‘welded’ on the bolt. And I only ask cause my oil pan seems to have oil residue all over it.

Yeh I’ll probably do that all myself , a workshop would charge thousands for that, I thought maybe u can do mates rates. but that honestly sounds good, have u got the wideband and air temp sensor? how long are u gonna be in Sydney for?

Does bigger oil filter = better? also some guy on this forum I forgot who, said Ryco oil filters perform subpar after doing tests on various oil filters.You can get OEM Nissan ones for like $20.

Shit you’re right, they’re not even expensive $253 brand new genuine. Can it actually be done in practice or is it just a theory. I mean with the wiring and all, do you know how to do it?

Oh yeah, how long are you in Sydney for? Also have u got the wide band, intake temp sensor, pigtail etc? and how many days will it all take you reckon? maybe we can work something out where I can leave my car with you and u can install everything like turbo, walbro, injectors etc. I still need to v band the dump pipe and get pipe made or the turbo elbow part and a turbo intake pipe made

Are u in Sydney?

What the hell is a whoosh valve my man?😂 I deleted the bov and the bov piping and put a blanking plate on the j pipe so it’s dose piping sututututu right now on my apexi alloy intake pipe. Also I can’t imagine a 35 afm being cheap, how much is it? But do u know if I can remove the z32 afm sensor, delete the housing and weld it onto the intake piping? Kinda like this(this is a hpxn1 maf sensor after market)

Costs too much money, way out of my budget. I found a nistune for $400 I’ll probably just go with that. It’s just that since I can’t go mafless I’m a bit worried about the length of the turbo intake piping. It’s gonna need to be shorter and I’m gonna have to use a tiny pod filter like I am now(it’s hitting the coolant reservoir). This may sound stupid but can you take the maf sensor off the z32 and weld it into the turbo intake piping so you don’t need to use the maf housing? This way I got more alloy piping and a bigger pod filter

Oh shit I got mixed up, so the D version is the rare one with ign cut and mafless? Does it allow e85 flex as well?

I’m just a bit confused that’s all. Nistune seems to be the cheapest option right now, with my setup I’m going for, is it more than enough? Either 650 +200 for afm for nistune or $1570 for haltech pro. Also I heard some power fc is L Jetro edition , how can I check if mine is that?

I’m just getting mixed messages all around. Why exactly is haltech plat pro a heap of shit if it’s very popular and many people can vouch for it and use and why does JEM (reputable tuner of skylines) recommend it? One random guy at skyline spares told me today(not the owner). Told me he has a 1500hp and 1000hp gtr. He highly advised against getting the nistune and encouraged me to get the plat pro cause he says it’s the best. Said nistune would limit my power to 300kwish @Dose Pipe Sutututu how much for a 600x300x76 plazmaman intercooler for? Do you know erks he is a welder at plazmaman

Just another thing. My current setup I’m going for is 3076r garret .82 t3 vband gen 2 bosch 1000c with plazmaman top feed rail and turbo smart fpr800 walbro 535 45 turbo smart external wastegate Probably plat pro haltech i currently have blitz return flow fmic, 3 inch turbo back with hi flow cat exhaust stock intake and exhaust manifold As far as the in/ex manifolds go, I’ve been told many times that the intake mani is still go for around 700hp and the exhaust manifold is good for 450hp too (Ben Moore a tuner from Victoria did a 351kw tune on a stock in and ex manifold on 20psi 3076r .82) is it safe to run the standard head studs for 351kw on 20psi 3076r? I’ve been told they start stretching around 22-24psi also I heard the blitz return flow restricts at 300kw. So what are some reasonably priced non return flow intercoolers I can get? and finally does anybody know if a plazmaman top feed rail will clear the stock intake manifold and throttle body? cheers

Ok I just spoke to JEM and he said go with the plat pro because they know it inside out. I found a used plat pro for $1570. But I also found a nistune for $650 but some guy said the nistune will restrict my power to around 300kw. Because I’m getting tired of being gapped by camrys and aurions power fc you can’t even do a e85 flex fuel tune that’s why

JEM in ingelburn, Sydney. Very reputable tuner of skylines. Not gonna lie, I mainly want it for bangs, wanks and flames. But I also want it for launch control and to get rid of the lag during shifts and rev dumps and of course throttle response.I don’t plan on doing any motorsports. I also heard it’s very rough on the engine and that’s kinda what’s holding me back. I don’t want to blow thousands on a engine rebuild We think alike

I’m doing the classic 400-450hp unopened 25det setup and I’m gonna sack my power fc since it doesn’t have ignition cut and you can’t do an anti lag tune on it or mafless setup. So in your opinion what is the best ecu to get for a 25det? I constantly hear about link g4, haltech platinum pro and sometimes adaptatronic. In your opinion which is the best ecu to get? Cheers

I know exactly what your talking about. It’s these vacuum hoses. Are you telling me their is low vacuum on them? Like they are blocked or something?