grimr33per

hi guys, I saw a thread earlier on about building an RB30DET engine using an RB25DE head and RB30 block, t04 turbo etc..... i'm getting an R32 and i wanna know if it's feasible to build a 3-litre engine using an RB30E block (non-turbo internals for higher compression, correct?) and RB20DET head. what sorta compression ratio will that leave me with, and what would I have to replace on the block to make it handle the power? my first thought was oil pump and water pump..... but after reading JNR24's post it looks like i could be up for some big-end bearings too. anyways, any input would be greatly appreciated. I'm gonna try and tackle this one myself (with the help of one of my friends who's done rebuilds before) so i wanna do thorough research first. i'd love to know how much power to expect (ballpark) from an RB30DET (keeping in mind that i'll at least be rebuilding & hi-flowing the stock turbo, if not replacing it with something a little more pricey) thoughts/opinions/advice?

hmmmm well my aircon isn't working too well..... but yeah, having it come on with the aircon is a good idea, how did u wire it up like that?

hmmmm indeed. any easy way to tell if the block is cracked? i didn't think it would have detonated, seeing as i had just started it (still warm from previous drive) and didn't even hit it remotely hard.

yeah, doing a compression test on the weekend...... didn't check the water coz it was dark. but yeah, made a deep *pop* sound, and i thought it was an intake hose popping off at first... but i didn't hit it that hard, i guess it woulda got up to about 5psi when it blew. no smoke out the exhaust, and with a few revs under no load it was still making 2psi or so, just giving the accell a quick hit. then it died and stopped starting completely, but not before noticing grey/white smoke pissing out of the front left of the block (exhaust side). water pump? oil pump? gasket? aaaaaaaargh

been having a great time with the car.... high oil pressure, and today, i removed breather lines/intake hoses/pcv valve and gave them a clean, put them back, and the car started nicely, took it for a drive around the block.... *pop* limped home, stalled outside the house, pissing grey/white smoke. car started again, sounded smooth above 2krpm but idled rough then died, more white smoke. now it won't start at all. my recent oil problems could have been a prelude to my gasket blowing. the smoke comes from the exhaust side up the front of the block. sound like a head gasket and a nice mix of oil & water? opinions please! i really hope it's not something more serious.

my thermo fan doesn't seem to be working.... *never* switches on, even when it's hot as a b1tch.... i took the fan out and ran it straight off a battery and it ran fine, and i cant find any blown fuses anywhere. what else could be causing it to *not* function?

my brakes squeal like wounded cops when moderate braking.... under hard braking, there's no noise, but under light/moderate braking...... sounds like a bad day in an Alabama slaughterhouse. one suggestion i had from a guy at repco is that when my current pads were installed, they weren't bedded in properly and got cooked from using them too hard to soon, and subsequently my discs get glazed really easy. probable solution: replace pads and machine the discs. does that sound about right or could i be missing something really, really important?

my last thread about high oil pressure seems to have died a horrible death and been ignored. i'm gonna make the assumption that my high oil pressure is caused by fouled-up oil lines (oil filter is new), and my oil loss is caused by the relief valve bleeding it all off every time it goes past 8kg/cm. now.... whats the best method to flush/clean the oil system properly? is a regular oil flush with a hot change good enuff, or is there something more powerful to use that'll completely clean ALL the crap out of the system? help me please as i really don't wanna pay a mechanic to do what I could do myself if I just knew what it was exactly I had to do.

hi, for the past 6 weeks or so, i've had unusually high oil pressure (8+ on the gauge when cold, 4-5 when idle, back up just under 8 when stomping it). i'm also going through oil reeeaal quick. what i'm thinking is that something is causing excessive oil pressure, and the relief valve is bleeding it off (and subsequently losing oil) as a result. i was using castrol magnatec and then formula R 10W60. Formula R 5W40 is my next oil I plan to use, but not if I've got pressure/bleed problems.... does the oil pressure relief valve bleed oil off at high pressures? and what can cause excessively high oil pressures? also, where IS the relief valve and where does it bleed to?

$25 for a fuel filter?????

i reckon 9psi is easy as long as it's in tune and u use 98RON fuel, using stock intercooler, and especially with CAI. don't take my word for it. i'm running 10psi with pod (no cold air! doh), standard intercooler and 3" exhaust. i'd risk running higher (hell, i need a new turbo anyway) but i'm in piss-poor tune at the moment so it'd ping like a bitch.

i'll be happier when someone puts a seatbelt on the roof of a GT-R. bucket of popcorn, pair of avo's, strap yourself in, and uh... hang on for dear life :-D

yeah, supposed to be CHANGED.... never heard anything about extra seatbelts being ADDED.

actually... seeing as the middle seat is no more than an annoying hump to sit on, is it *remotely* possible that a 5th seatbelt was fitted during compliance??? could be a supremely stupid question.

whoah so there are both 5-seater and 2+2 r33s? the guys with 2+2s, what year are your 33s?