CruisingFast

Hi Guys & Girls, I just had a full rebuild done on my motor and with some future plans to go down the single turbo route for 350-450kw atw I decided to invest in a twin plate whilst the motor was out. I've never owned a twin plate before and I did some research and figured the Nismo Super Coppermix would be the easiest given the car was mainly going to be street driven. After talking to the manager at the workshop doing my car I was persuaded that a NPC twin plate would be the way to go due to the cheaper rebuild costs. So that’s what I have now and after taking the car back last week I'm really struggling with it. From a pedal pressure point of view the clutch is really easy to engage and not heavy on the foot. The problem I have though is getting moving again from a stop, it's even more difficult on a hill or in a stop turn left/right scenario. It also happens in reverse. I also got Nismo GT Pro 1.5 lsd's fitted front and centre and have taken it back to the shop to adjust this to Light setting as this wasn't changed from the Medium it normally comes shipped in. I've only done 40 km's thereabouts as I wanted to take it back to the workshop as it didn't feel right. The clutch feels very on or off and when I attempt to release the clutch a little with light revs to gain gentle forward/back movement the whole car feels like its shuddering and really not liking the whole deal of the clutch being engaged slightly when applying a little throttle. I'm sure there is a technique I need to learn and the workshop have said as much and will be doing something tomorrow I was just curious to hear from others with a twin plate to see whether this was something other people had experienced and what they did to overcome this in the general stop/start nature in regular traffic. Also when reversing or parking into tight places how can you fully release the clutch in those forward and back situations without some clutch being engaged to prevent the whole thing surging. It doesn’t make sense when using low revs and only half releasing/riding the clutch that it wouldn’t move ever so gently in those tight situations. Any tips or advice is appreciated, I really hope there is a technique to this all that I’m missing as I spent some time in a vacant parking lot trying different things and whilst I only stalled it once I almost never got a clean run from those stop situations mentioned before.

I'm not really needing this just get as I'm still running with a pair of HKS GT-SS and waiting to see what my dyno results are after the rebuilt motor which I'm about to run in has its final tune..... If you would do something better on price I could be swayed. Let me know if $1100 inc postage to Brisbane would get the deal done. 0402 101 939

I want some, do you have a paypal account? I'm with Suncorp and don't have an external transfer password for direct deposit. If you don't I might be able to hit up my gf to see if I can transfer from her account, no banks near work so can't walk into a branch.

Have fun guys and girls... will try and make the next one. Getting my car back at the end of the week. Tis a shame this wasn't on at the end of the month.... My cars been in the shop for a long 6 weeks putting things back together. The motor went in today. Got a couple photos on Friday checking out the progress... looking nice and tidy. Exhaust port and polish inside. Mmmmmm Tomei Camshafts.

Doesn't look like I will be able to make it gents. My engine is half built though still waiting on the port job on the head before run in tune. A real shame really as I should have the car in a week or two though still on a run in tune and I don't want to do anything too far from home in the first 500 km's. I'll be posting a build thread up later once I have the photos of everything getting done. Gone a little silly on the car with the engine rebuild and thinking of putting a larger turbo on though still undecided what I would want if I move to a single setup. Got the block chemically cleaned and micro polished, bored 40 though, CP oversized pistons, Nitto h beams, nismo bearings, full arp and head stud kit, crank cryo frozen, tomei oil restrictor, nitto oil pump, high octane sheet metal sump extension, tomei sump baffle, full port job on head, tomei type b cams, tomei valve springs, tomei metal gasket kit, cam baffles, hks type r intercooler, Z32 afms & kakimoto exhaust.

If these where doing into a GTR, Do these fit into the centre console stock gauges spaces? If that's a yes I'm interested.

The other mob from Sydney wern't wreckers, just tyre and rims sellers. They where advertising on eBay Kumho KU31's from memory.

+1 for Option 1 I got my tyres and lug nuts from them, did better than price match they even beat a mob down in Sydney who had a better listed price. Top it all off they even delivered them to another tyre place who were fitting my rims in Nundah for free.

Hi Darren, I'm pretty sure I'll be coming to this. How much power are you making? My car is in the shop now, getting a forged motor built and a new 1000HP rated clutch fitted. The clutch I have is under 5000km old, is a custom single plate rated to 450HP. Feels like OEM, just not strong enough for the mods I'm getting. Will have the clutch out next week if you're interested. I think it cost me $1400. I would take $900 if you're interested pm me and I'll give you my number. Clutch is in Brisbane and would be available for pickup at Mercury Motorsport early next week.

No I'm pretty certain it's front diff... My car is in the shop again getting a forged motor rebuild and new front and centre diffs. The problem was there before lowering, with driveshafts and suspension parts done it really only leaves the diffs as far as I can tell. I'll know more in a couple weeks, I told the shop what was going on and hope to never experience it again, I've pushed the car at different times and never felt anything like it before, the handling has been exceptional up to that first experience a few weeks back... will post an update once the rebuild work is done.

Sounds good guys, if it's later in July I should be sweet... if you have it early in July chances are I'll still have a run in tune going so won't be able to attend. (max 80kms / under 4K revs - getting forged motor built with new nismo gt pro diffs, I've been warned you need to go easy on these for a while otherwise you end up with noisy diffs.)

Yeah I want one of them Kansai strut braces myself, I've got a thread asking if the R33GTR works, can you please check if it has a part number or something we could use a reference point? I've done a little searching and can't find one that states for Stagea and looking at other strut braces that are for R33 and Stagea the model numbers are different. Fingers crossed the Kansai fitted on your car has the same part number as the R33 bar! If not at least it's a step closer to knowing what to ask for when i start hitting up the Japanese part suppliers

Okay so I'm leaning heavily towards the NISMO diff upgrade. It would be good to hear from someone that has this done on there car, just curious to know first hand what they're like to use in a daily. I've read on some other forums they can be a little noisy when cold. How long do they take to warm up in typical weather ie) over 20 degrees. Do they need any kind of regular attention or servicing? Just curious to know how these are in typical applications and how many k's they are good for. I just want to know if this is the best option for durability and control. A little noise everynow and again I can handle, its more about doing things once if you know what I mean. I guess lastly, getting my diffs rebuilt is still in the frame though if the costs come close to the above idea I probably wont bother with a repair as I've read of people having issues when this isn't done right, my only concern with this is with 350+kw at the wheels and further power gains to be had once I get some more money for fuel system upgrade for E85 that this could be asking too much from the R33 stock drivetrain. If anyone knows a little about this I'd be interested to hear from you. I keep hearing this guys name Steve from DIFF & GEARBOX INDUSTRIES in Brisbane. Thinking of hitting him up tomorrow for a quote, has anyone had any experience with these guys?

Might have found a cheaper way to get the feeling corrected in the diff, read this on another forum... hmm so dont worry about the centre diff, just do the front, not sure what the cost of a torque up will be though it might be a more sensible option. Torque Up Getting my diff touched up this weekend, getting what the japanese call a torque up, spring plates are being replaced with NISMO ones and if I understand correctly, two disc plates are coming out and two more springs are going in, this will tighten everything up and the diff will come on faster and harder, my tuner recommends this over an LSD for the rear, its cheaper and just as effective, plus it is more street friendly. Then use the money you would have spent and buy a Carbonetics LSD for the front.

Good call, ecu mod is taking a back seat.. I guess the doubt started to creep in after a few shops keep plugging these new ecu's who go on about how much better they are. I'm thinking of getting my diffs done as I've got a small issue which I've got a couple posts regarding this problem in the drivetrain forum. See: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/362676-troubleshooters-slipping-and-vibration-feeling-on-full-lock-turns/ These diffs look to be good and from what I've read are the most streetable, would be a perfect time to do this seeing the engine will be out, just checking on availability. RHD Japan are good suppliers, I got all my Tomei and HKS parts paid for and received in under 2 weeks both times, the aussie dollar is doing really good too so I could get those diff option below delivered to my door for a little over $2600. NISMO Front 1.5way LSD Skyline GT-R (Main SKU : 23059) NISMO GT LSD Pro w/ LSD oil Silvia 180SX Skyline Fairlady Z Cefiro Laurel Stagea (Main SKU : 53473) I guess getting back to what you said about money to burn, I don't really want to be throwing money away though I don't know if there's much that can be done if I went for a rebuild/repair option locally. I'm going to hit my mechanic up on Tuesday (public holiday Monday) and see whether there is a cheaper option.

Well I'm getting the motor rebuilt so for the first 500 or so K's I'm told to be gentle with everything keeping the car under low revs, once this is done a slightly harder driving is required before getting re tuned to unlock full power then go do some power runs, preferably hill climbs to really push the limits to get everything worn in correctly. Is this the kind of driving that would run the diff in correctly and ensure a quiet operation? Can the stock diffs be rebuilt locally if I was to maintain the standard setup? Just not sure on the pro's and cons of rebuild VS upgrade. I want to get everything done the best I can though the budget is fast running out so if I can get away with something that will last and save me a few dollars I'm likely to take that route. I wouldn't say I drive like a dick too often though I don't mind every now and again getting the car a little out of shape around corners.... maybe this is whats caused the issues to begin with and I need to stop doing this to keep everything in shape and good order. I think this tendency is a throwback to some of my earlier rear wheel drive wannabe rally experiences. Where I grew up I used to belt around on dirt roads a bit (used to live up a 10km track), some good adrenalin rushes to be had on the dirt when things would get a little sideways.

Yeah I had a look on a site on Japan last night and picked up they had different part numbers for a Cusco strut bar for the GTR VS STAGEA. Thanks guys for confirming this. I did notice a Haltech group buy is on at the moment. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/360760-haltech-ecu-group-buy/page__gopid__5788102#entry5788102 Is anyone running a Platinum Sport 2000? From all reports these are pretty decent and could make it easier to unlock the full potential from the mods I've got.

Hi Guys, About two weeks ago I started getting a problem where If I was stopped and was in or close to full lock and would accelerate left or right I could feel something wasn't right, it was like the front wheels were skipping or slipping and not making traction, some vibration like shuddering throiugh the steering wheel whilst this happened......faster speeds and easier corners were okay and straight line was no problem. At first I thought it might have been cvboots as I read other advice on the forums.... I'd just bought a set of coilovers and decided to book it into Fulcrum as the problem gradually got worse and was happening without full lock and on longer corners, I could even feel it in reverse when parking the car when in the same full lock slight to moderate acceleration and that feeling mentioned above. In last two weeks I've had both cvboots reconditioned, coilovers fitted and bushes replaced as these had also worn out. It felt on first inspection that the problem had gone away, last night I took the car out and was happy with the way everythig was going then went to test things again from stationary full lock turns and there it was again, not as bad as before but you could definately feel it. I'm no mechanic and I only know what I learn from reading mostly but from what I've gathered this sounds most likely that the front diff has packed it in. The other thing which is less likely is the ATTESSA playing up though I would've thought if this was the case it would be playing up outside of the full lock scenario too. If anyone has experienced something like this before let me know. Whilst I'm getting a rebuild done the front diff will be an easy job to do, just wanting to get some advice if there's anything else these symptoms could be pointing too. Cheers, Adam

I've done some searching last night and might have found a couple possibilities. I don't want a 2 way and from I've picked up a the only 1.5 one that is still streetable is the NISMO GT LSD Pro. The above being mechanical seems like the cheaper option as with the dollar doing so well I've priced one of these from Japan including oil for $1400 delivered. I did find another option below which is slightly more expensive, best price is 2K.. these seem a little harder to find on the open market. I'd be interested to hear of anyone using a helelical diff. What would you do if this was your street car? Quaife ATB Helical LSD Differential

The RB30 would've costed me more in the end... after the suspension and other bits I've done I'm starting to get a little heat from the misses so I've had to be a little careful to leave some coin to keep her onside. I had a crack in my block and needed an answer quickly and in the end the bottom end came in at a pretty good price, it only cost was for materials really and the labour was free.... another mechanic did the work then opted for the 30 and decided to sell. He was going to keep the 26 he had done then I called and had the cash to pay straight up to cover his costs so we both came out of the transaction okay. I've got an Apexi power fc at the moment... The fuel pump is an intank nismo, I believe these are 280lph and with the bigger injectors should be okay?? I wouldn't mind changing the ecu, just waiting on e85 to be more readily available in QLD then was going to change to a dual map setup with a Haltech or the other option was the Vipec. What ecu do you run? From what I've learnt reading forums and places like this the ecu doesn't play into the numbers (kw) so much its the tuner who can make the motor sing?

Hi Guys, Does anyone know if the R33/34 GTR front strut braces will fit a S1 260RS Stagea? The running gear is 33 GTR, just curious as I'm looking at buying this strut brace: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19793&cat=394&page=1 On a side note, I finally got around to getting the suspension lowered with TEIN Super Flex coilovers plus some whiteline goodness replacing bushes and upper control arms and a few other things done. Getting a full forged engine rebuild next month, will post up the details soon... can't wait, getting closer to finishing of this car which will be used mostly for street and weekends etc.... hoping to get something over 350rwkw, will need a better clutch before I go any further. Cheers, Adam Here's some of the work getting done on the motor.... Taking my head off and getting it cleaned and polished ready for a bottom end that's already been assembled at the mechanics. Going to reuse some parts that are all under 10,000km old, this includes my HKS iridium plugs, HKS 660C injectors HKS Fuel rail and HKS adjustable cam gears. Also keeping the HKS GT-SS turbos which are practically new. Adding to the head: TOMEI Camshafts Poncam RB26DETT 9163 Type B (9.15 lift 260 degree) TOMEI Valve Springs Set Type-B RB26DETT 9784 TOMEI Metal Gasket Combination Set RB26DETT 13436 The bottom end has been prepared seperately, I'm replacing mine due to a small hairline crack which has been leaking a little water.... rb26 bottom end. block chemicaly cleaned, bored 40thou, crack tested, new welsh plugs, de-burred. r33 crank cryo frozen for strength, balanced, crack tested, micro polished. new n1 oil pump and n1 water pump. new oil squiters in block, new nitto H beam rods, cp 40thou pistons, nismo bearings. full arp head and main stud kit, tomei oil restrictor. I got a larger front mount too, which I figured would be good for the extra boost this motor will be able to handle, ended up getting a HKS GT intecooler, I didn't get the larger one they have as that would've been silly so got the 600X300X100 sized core. Also getting the Kakimoto Full Mega N1 exhaust... hoping that fits up alright I already have HKS dump pipes and an apexi front pipe. Car will be getting the final bits done in a couple weeks. I posted some pics of my car a while back, once the weather fines up I'll take some more photos to share as everything comes together.

Hi, Could be interested in the diff, Just wanted to query whether this diff is any good in a standard R33 GTR? I read about these being effectively a left / right "torque split" capable LSD. The only query is these would need an upgraded ATTESA ETS-Pro. What would be needed to get the full benifits of this working in the standard R33 GTR?

Hi Guys, I'm about to get a full engine rebuild and was thinking whilst it's out I should also do something with my diff. I'm a little green on this and found this topic though it's for a rear wheel drive only car. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/130896-question-of-wat-diff-to-get/ I've got a Stagea 260RS which from a running gear perspective you would all know has the R33 GTR drivetrain. I've noticed a slight whining noise under moderate acceleration coming from the diff and was wondering what options I have to rebuild or replace. Whether a NISMO kit is the best option or an aftermarket option. I've already tried putting redline oils in everything but that made little difference. The car is for street use though I wouldn't mind doing some track work once I get the rebuild done. If this helps after the rebuild and other upgrades are complete I should have around 350rwkw. Thanks, Adam

Cheers Nismoid for the advice, I'm not exactly clever with these things and am still learning as I go. Just trying to get by without making too many mistakes along the way. At the tisk of sounding like a complete dill, I went searching for -7s turbos but couldn't find anything . Is there a faq or something I could read to educate myself on what these sizings actually refer to so that I know what I'm looking at when I'm reading up on the different options I have. Similarly if you know of some turbos that you could recommend at this size I could also read up on this. Happy to learn what I can, thanks again for taking the time in your posts.

hmm I'm hearing what your saying about the turbo lag... this is definably something I want to stay away from... I guess I'll just keep the GT-SS as these are really good down low and come on quick which is perfect for the street... I guess I was just getting ahead of myself as I was thinking these turbos would be a waste on the engine that I'm putting together. I don't care solely about power but I've got a number in my head and I'm looking for something greater than 350kw at the wheels which is what got me thinking of upgrading the turbos... the other thing that was playing on my mind is if the engine can handle more boost, at what point can the GT-SS goto as I want a reliable setup and not have the turbos under stress if I'm pushing them past there limits.