hitnrun

Hmmm not happy Jan. Well I gave it a good old fashioned slapping but to no avail. Could it be the sender thingymabob in the fuel tank as opposed to my gauge, E.I. my gauge works fine but it getting an incorrect signal? Damn this sucks, haven't had the car long enough to properly work out my milage, so now I fill up every half tank. Oh well could be worst. I could own a dunnydore. **Proceeds to beat the life out of some poor helpless student at work :whip: ** Ok I feel better now. So does anyone have anymore suggestions, what causes it etc? Thanks, Tim

Thanks for the replies guys. Will try giving it a bit of backhand action in the morning, hopefully will sort it out, don't really want to pull the dash apart/buy another gauge. Cheers, Tim

Hey guys My fuel gauge was working correctly yesterday, but today it is now showing full all the time??? All fuses seem to be fine, my speedo/tach etc is all aok, just the fuel gauge. Any ideas? Could it be electrical or mechanical? Ahhh damn Tis always the case, Guess I will look at it when I get time Cheers, Tim

Very true. Everything we buy has a mark up. If you buy from someone like Nengun you cut out a fair few middle men, hence you get a cheaper price. If you buy from someone in Aus, chances are that they can't compete with that price, because of middlemen etc. I think that people should just shut the fu(k up about it. It's not Aussie dollars, because everything we are buying would come from Japan in the first place. That only way to save "Aussie jobs" would be to use a local who actually manafactured whatever part you needed on the spot. Now give me one manafacture that can make a Apexi PFC. They can't so if you want Jap stuff, you buy it from Japan. The only way to save your "job" would be to use a Microtech instead. Nothing wrong with that either. Honestly people get over it. As long as no one is selling stolen goods, who cares where they are or what they charge. In the end it is your choice where you buy your products. From everything I have heard, Nengun seems pretty cheap and reliable, but I have heard good things about other retailers as well. Make up your mind, but keep it too yourself unless you have been ripped off.

Not about performance, but there is a maroon NA r33 in Perigian that floggs the pants off my r33gtst. When I raced him he was carrying 3 large guys in the car, I was empty. At every set of lights we came to, he absolutely left me for dead. When we pulled over at the servo, he then told me it was NA. I couldn't believe it. He opened the bonnet and sure enough it was NA. I asked him what was done to it and he said he didn't know, as it was like this when he imported it. After that we cruised up to Noosa, one the way he decided to race a stroked 308. Well I was sitting on 190, and they both disappeared into the distance. I didn't meet up with him again after that, so I don't know what speeds they were doing, but would have to be well in excess of 240/250km/h. Well to be honest I would love to see some really tough NA's getting around - even more pie in the face when you beat commodores at the light

Nice wallpaper. Tim

Hey GTST, True about the fluttering sounds, but you can also get a slightly different sounds depending on the BOV. Yes it is the sound of the blades "chopping" the air, but some BOV also can give off multiple, quieter, phssst noises, not the whoo whoop whoo noise that the air going throught the turbo makes. If anyone wants to know what noise GTST is talking about, on Mario's site he has a video of a dyno run, I think it is the Supra 8thsin, can't remember, but it is a damn sweet noise, pity about the damage it can cause. http://www.exvitermini.com

Sorry, couldn't tell you, looks damn tight though, maybe a custom? Would imagine it to be expensive with 2 resonators. Tim

TYRE SPEED SYMBOL TYRE SPEED RATING S 180 km/h or 112 mph T 190 km/h or 118 mph U 200 km/h or 125 mph H 210 km/h or 130 mph V 240 km/h or 149 mph W (ZR) 270 km/h or 168 mph Y (ZR) 300 km/h or 186 mph ZR Above 240 km/h or 149 mph Note this is off Kumo, but is pretty much standard across the board *whoops, same info as that link, sorry*

Boxcar - at this stage looks like it might just be me coming down, Dam Qik has a few things on so not sure if he can make it. I will be drinking, so I might crash if that's ok, or at least for half the night anyway. Cheers, Tim

Hey guys, I don't mind starting earlier if that's what people want, it will take me a while to get down, so doesn't matter if I start a few hours earlier or later. Whatever you decide Birty you are right, working 2 days straight sucks arse. Used to do it a bit, pretty lonely and stuff, thank goodness for a 7am-6pm job, so much better.

Dude you should of bought a silver one, that's the problem. Also you need to put a stock exhaust and 14inch rims on it, plus 80 series profile tyres. Bumpin'

210+ in a suzuki swift GTi, was tracking all over the road pretty badly. I guess the guy who owned it before me and dropped the height by cutting the springs wasn't going for the whole 200+ idea. Dam Qik can confirm this, as he overtook me, I think he was doing around 250 or so. Anyway looked hell cool as he went past I got my skyline up to 190 45mins after picking it up. Can't wait to cut that pesky little wire, or at least put in a toggle switch. I don't know about you other guys, but **** "private" roads this was on a public road at 3am in the morning. Good old Bruce Highway. Haven't done a quarter mile yet, got a few bugs to iron out before I give it a eal good hammering Tim

"AON Risk Insurance" in Caloundra, not sure if they have branches in Brissy, I have also heard some recommendations for "Just Car" I think AON was ~$800 for over 25 rating one, but $4500 for 21 with no rating.

Yeah I must say I got my car through a dealer in Buranda. I was not impressed by customer service or after sales service. Would not recomend them to anyone. However I did manage to get a pretty cheap car (for a dealer), so I guess them's the breaks. Next time I know I will be definitely going for private buy

Name: Tim Age: 21 Car: R33 Skyline GTS25t two tone silver Mods: A wonderful stocker Live: Maleny, Sunny Coast Occupation: IT

Hi guys, I would love to join. I am willing to help out, but I'm pretty involved with work, plus I live up Maleny (Sunny Coast) way, so I wouldn't be always available. But any time you need anything feel free to ask NB. I would be in as long as it doesn't turn into a fully shick sticker club. I'm (and I assume everyone else) interested in a proper club. Anyway I get my car back soon, so let's organise a meeting or something. Cheers, Tim

Hi guys/girls, I have to agree with you, BKT is definately slow. I think Nismo was planning something so we could have it up here, since it would take him about 50mis just to get to BKT let alone Brissy. However I'm willing to go just about anywhere (except Goldie, a bit far on a Friday night), Archerfield would be sweet. Let us know what you guys want, I'm open.

Brand new Holinger $20k Imported OS Giken ~$20k (after tax, shipping etc) However I read somewhere that some mad company in Japan has found a way to create a SShifter out of the standard nissan box using some special plates or something. No idea on price (but would be a hell of a lot cheaper than $20 ****ing grand Oh well may be I might get one after I sell a few relatives to the circus Tim

Hi Brodie, I would imagine that they put in a brass button/puck clutch and a HD pressure plate. Basically the clutch shouldn't slip, but of course that means that it makes for a very rough and jerky ride until you get use to it. 250rwkw is a fair amount of power, so you probably have a rather heavy duty clutch installed. Do you know if they put in a multi plate clutch? When you start talking these levels of power, a multiplate clutch would be a better alternative (Although very costly). With regards to the slipping issue, I can only think that either the clutch plate is getting some very small amounts of oil on it, or that maybe something is seeping off the clutch when it gets hot. It shouldn't be slipping though. Good luck and hopefully everything will be sorted out. Cheers, Tim

Hi Prank, Not being rude or anything but I think you will find the clutches like yours definately don't like being ridden or slipped. If fact I know of quite a few people who replace their "Bass ass HD" clutches every 12months, simple becasue they don't drive them correctly. Basically you should be trying NOT to slip the clutch because they will wear faster if they slip IE ceramic puck clutch will wear like grandma's 10 year old undies if slipped. Just think of what different types of cements and roads do to your tyres The rougher the road, the more chunks it takes out of your tyres Anyway, hopefully your's will be aok, cause I know from putting a multiplate in mine that clutches cost far to ****ing much. Cheers, Tim

Thanks everyone for your replies. Most interesting. Well I think I might just stay with the platinums for now, and try the iridiums next time. Cheers, Tim

Very true. Nothing better than some brutally embarassment of you friends.

Friday nights are best for me

Hey BarneyRubble, Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that cars that do that either are letting the accelerator off before full boost hence not enough pressure to hold the BOV open the whole time, EI. opens releases pressure, closes, pressure builds up slightly again, opens etc. That's why the sounds dies down. From my experience with EXA's and Silvias, usually because the BOV is adjusted incorrectly. If it was tightened more, it wouldn't open until it was able to hold it long enough to let all pressure vent off. Also you can get funny noises from air travelling backwards through a pod filter. Cheers