samos69

Only 1 RB25DET I've found in NZ for under $2k and its done 195,000km Most of the import motors are $2300 for a complete engine with startup warranty... The above motor with all the china add-ons is being offered for $2k flat.. Currently weighing up building a 30.... its actually the cheapest way to do a rebuild as the 30 block (running motor) and 25 head can be had for $700ish... can't find any 25 or 26s even needing a rebuild for that price..

Well its unfortunately irrelevant now... the guy claimed someone else had text him and phone broke or something so he gave him first option (after we had already agreed on a deal) and sold it to him as he showed up with cash (I'm not local so was going to get it picked up during the week)... That said there is another motor local, rb25det series 1, FFP, 750cc injectors and some china turbo. Problem is its on a stand so I can't verify it runs..

Thanks for the feedback, I was getting my hopes up as getting so close.... but now I'm gonna be pulling the motor as I've just sealed the deal on a series 2 RB25DET, completely stock bar a link g4 making 224kw (for now ) So fit motor, bit of wiring, make new seat rails, wheel alignment = hit the track!

Yeah I'm torn...these are the current options in NZ: China #1 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/accessories/auction-621857178.htm China#2 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/auction-622137243.htm Rebuild a 20 Turbo (I have a dead one around here somewhere) http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/auction-623295578.htm Or I can get another RB25 of unknown kms for about $250NZD. Or the nuclear ($$$$$) option... buy an RB25 complete and pillage the turbo for this motor (this motor is destined for the road shell) and then work on getting a big turbo for the 25 motor...

Pulled out the old rubber bungs that had been covering where the wiper was. Put some tape on the underside and filled the hole with silicon.. will slap some cheesy sticker over the silicon once I find one.. Now I'm going to show you some dodgy stuff (no not that sort of dodgy stuff ). Bear in mind this was done when I was much younger, broke, had few tools and even less experience. Check out this outstanding wiring for my fans.. yup the relay just hangs free. Oh look, this one has almost worn through Sweet connection, it runs off the overtemp sensor in the bottom of the rad, kicks in at about 90 IIRC. Some $10 fans from the local wreckers... fix em in with tek screws Jacked up the front and a heap of water came out the exhaust (much more than is shown) - the trailer has been chocked on my steepish driveway and we had a few big storms so guess it was filling the exhaust up.. Tierods are farked... So got these ages back for a good price 2nd hand.. But they are for 12mm tierods... so they need to be sold and some 14mm ones procured. Interestingly, these were brand new 2 months ago when they went onto the car then onto the trailer... all the other china arms seem fine but these.. Then onto replacing my mismatched intercooler piping with a some new stuff. Oh wait, whats this. Pull more pipes off Bugger. To be fair I suspected as much as it had started smoking when I pulled it out of storage.... thats turbo number 3 on this car for those keeping count (1xRB20, 2xRB25). Will need to find a replacement but don't want to spend much as I'm pretty certain this motor will be heaved for a 25 so anything bought now would be a bit small... My pile of mismatched piping Started pulling the turbo It escalated quickly... Gave it a bit of clean as the power steering had leaked all over that area a few times after boiling on track... Turns out I was running a single core radiator, I have a twin core floating about but its outlet is broken.. Despite the horror setup shown above I've never had any heating / cooling issues with this car on or off track. That was today.. tomorrow need to head out for some parts then into it some more while I'm off work for the week

We now resume regular programming... (and thank f@ck we now have a kitchen, all those weeks washing the dishes in the bath > ) First up, as it was such a prick to get on the trailer it needed to be raised up a touch, and the wicked toe-out from the longer LCAs fixed. (these are with the wheel straight) As with everything on this car, it wasn't a simple job. The tie rod ends seemed to be fused on with rust... gave it a good while with some penetrating oil and still no luck so out with the fire About 3-4 minutes of heating and it was pretty easy to remove. Then raised it up enough to let me get full lock so I could drive it into the garage. Good enough to get going Loving the current camber / fitment but its only by eye. Will go in for a real alignment once the rest of the car is ready (some bad toe in on the rear too from the looks) Cos I'm lazy and hadn't primed the arches they had gone rusty out in the weather so the 3m stripper on the drill got a workout followed by some rust killer. Gave it some zinc primer Did the same for the underbody where the cage is attached (had forgot to do this previously) here it is pre-treatment. It got some por15 later on. Then made these brackets up to temporarily hold the window controls (not that they work at the moment). They are notched either end so it cant slip out and attached to the door using rivnuts. This is before I trimmed the excess that you can see. That was a few days ago...

Loving the build.. heaps of good ideas to steal and use.. Do you find the engine damper actually does much? Are you still on factory engine mounts?

Right so a mad dash to get the car running and onto its trailer. Harness eyelets in Wiring harness temporarily tied back Because the dash bar was cut for the cage, had to remount the fuse board, almost looks factory! Templating cutting the dash, what a pain in the ass.. dremel + jigsaw action This turned out a bit rough even though I started out all careful I was over it and have a spare dash so zero f%^Ks were given No photos of the following.. Then it was time to put it on its wheels, what a disaster.. too much castor and the wheels were hitting the back of the arch, and the car has never been on its coilovers so the height hasn't been set and it was too low to get the jacks out... So jack it up, wood under the wheels, wind out some castor and jack it down. Hmm somethings not right, masssive toe out - doh fitting the R33 LCAs has thrown the toe out. No time to fix so into the car, car starts fine after my wiring massacre but the windows no longer wish to go up or down.. so using the jumper pack we manually power up the windows and I get to backing out of the very tight garage.. again problems.. at lock the tyres are hitting the front of the side skirts (they are a bit ratty anyway but cracked it some more) and trying to eat the corner of the front bumper.. Soldier on and put it on the trailer but not without some louds bangs that scared the crap out of me. Turns out the increased track + toe means the tyres clip either side of the trailer bed.. Thats it for now, will get some photos of the mad toe and trailer fitment sometime this weekend.. Now onto some demolition!

Lots done today, a few disasters but nothing I can't fix First up I refitted the boot on the tierod and decided to leave that to another day as time is short. Next I fitted the drivers side swaybar bracket, unfortunately the nut that is inside the chassis rail was partially stripped from my first attempt at fitting the swaybar with factory brackets, and it just let go when fitting my new improved bracket today. Its an M12 fine thread which I do not have a tap or die for so I'm going to try and re-thread it with M12 medium or coarse (which I have)when the car is back in the garage, or I'll have to buy a bigger tap, drill it and tap it. Fitted the castor arm on this side, it seems to be much easier to get more castor so I hope nothing is bent on the other side.... But went to tighten the lock nut and found one is stripped, I can move it back and forth by hand. > Pity I bought these so long ago... but it has to come out for the swaybar bracket anyway so will replace it then. Someone on SAU asked about the caliper brackets so here are some more detailed photos Fitted up the drivers side and noticed it wasn't square..hmmm The supplied washers are a bit too big.. they aren't doing anything anyway so removed them and all is good. Jumped back to the passenger side and same issue so removed it all to remove the washers as well. Removed old rear shocks, fitted shiny new Noticed rust under the car where the cage footplates were welded in... will kill it and POR15 tomorrow.. Refitted boot seal and boot latch - first time in a year the boot hasn't been held down with a bungy (garage door hits it if up) Plan is to ditch the boot springs and just pin the boot - the black skyline has already had this done so will be swapping boots (and refitting springs into the black one) at a later date. Also checked all rear suspension bolts and reconnected the rear swaybar. All in all not a bad day. Onto cutting and fitting the dash, refit factory gauges, refit loom and hopefully start it tomorrow. Then bleed brakes and hopefully on its wheels to go to a new home for a few months on Monday while we do some house renos..

Right, laid some POR15 down on the cage Ran into an issue on the drivers side, cage is too tight for the eyelet to wind in... bugger Bit of zinc primer on the back And laid some plain white on top, it's pretty rough as I'm in a rush to get the car out of the garage and well race car /= show car.. Bit of fisheye going on in the drivers footwell, must have missed a bit with the wax and grease remover.. Front legs done in matt black (less reflective) Test fit 17x9 +22 wheel with 255 tyre and a 15mm spacer (so +7 effective spacing) just for shits and giggles Heh. They should fit the other car with a bit of a guard roll, 245 tyre and no spacer.. A photo of what looks like rust but is actually baked on brake dust... much scrubbing to be done once the hose ban is lifted. Went to tighten up the passenger side and realised the wheel was sitting funny Pulled the castor rod and whoops had it a bit short. Tried to wind it out and refit but that was never going to work. So reinstalled and started cranking it but can't seem to get it as far as I think it should go... still it's nearly the same length as the factory one so good enough for now. Attacked the tie rods but this locking collar doesn't want to move... doesn't seem like a disposable item, but ran out of time so will have to leave it for now. and that was all for now

Joyous Thanks, I guess I'm in for a hard days scrubbing...

New wheels! These are for the black road car, though may find their way onto the track car... 2 piece Blitz Racing Type 01s. GTR fitment 17x9 ET22 all round. Tyres are shot so plan to run a 235 or 245 on them (current 255) as fitment will be tight even with a guard massage. In very average condition so will need to split them and do a refurb at some point when I have time.. probably do a black centre. Looks like rust around the dish, but these are alloy so I'm thinking it may be brake dust embedded in the clear..

Hi all, just looking for some advice on what is the best (read least work) product to remove the white adhesive / sealant that is under the plastic sheet attached to the doors once you have removed the door cards? I'm going alloy sheet (because race car!) and want to clean it up.. thanks

Great write up, I haven't seen that sort of detail on the baffling before. I assume that as its alloy you used a TIG to attach your baffles?

I have a solid puk clutch, very off/on but not that bad that I can't do the tight 3 point turn and clutch slip to get in and out of the garage. I reckon it has been hard on the driveline though, gearbox and diff both a bit noisy now (car is drifted / tracked so may just be normal wear).