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how much without the fuel reg?

Im interested, but not for that price. And im NZ based, so i need to think about shipping and TAX on top. LDH89: just to let you know the rail wont work on a rb26 because the mounts are in the wrong position.

Thanks for that. Yeah ive got a z33 6 speed going behind it.

sorry i must or worded myself wrong. i've worked out its a S2 rb25det from a S1 Stagea. Is it common for these to have a grey plug and not the normal blue plug like the R33 RB25det's? Do they share the auto trans ecu in there? I'm not planning on tuning this motor any time soon, will be left as it is just in a track hack S13. I just want a ecu pin out i can figure out how im going to rewire the loom up to power and switches. is this the pin out i want, from this post here, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/406866-ecu-tuning-for-s1-stagea-do-we-have-a-solution-yet/?p=6516626

Hi Guys Can anyone shed some like for me on the late 98 Series 2 RB25det Stagea RS-Four? Brought one being told it was a Neo. Picked it up started stripping it off to put it in my S13. The Cas is the Black plastic cas, the loom is the grey plug ecu. I thought it was a Neo from that, but further looking into it it had the side feed injectors, the 3 bolt IAC valve, the small TB. Which had me instantly suspicious about it being a Neo. Looking around found 2 pictures of Late model RS4's with these motors. Does anyone else know anything more about them? http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=2529 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/368359-syd-nissan-stagea-rs4-dayz-edition-wgnc34-pearl-white-rb25det-awd-no-sunroof/ My guess is a Series 2 motor internally and intake and exhaust sides. But whats the deal with the ecu now? would i use the R34 GTT pinout for the grey plug ECU? Just wanting to know this as i plan on hard wiring the motor to the battery via a switch and fuse panel.

what specs are the ACL bearings? big end, and mains? Would you ship them to NZ?

ok so i thought my P0400 fault code was due to the wrong resistor being in the temp switch position. So yesterday i swapped out the 42kohm resistor i had for a 10Ohm 5watt resistor. Cleared the codes and then started the car. 5 seconds after starting i get a P1401 EGR temp sensor. So i tried a 10Ohm 10watt resistor. same deal. Looking into the USA infinity sites for the VQ30dd altima and maxima, a lot of guys have used 100kOhm .25watt resistor. So that's my next one to try. Once i get this i'll let you all know what size resistor i used.

Got a warrant of Fitness for her yesterday. Car flew through with no issues at all, Nissan Dealership still cant believe i got the car for $1500.

think i might have to do this soon. any help with pictures please?

just done my first full tank of 95. i've got a vq25dd i got 600km just as the fuel light came on, then went another 50km before putting more gas in. 400km of that was done with a full boot and family trip away up and down hills in twists and turns. Loving these wagons! bit more expensive to run than the 323 hatch, but the power is there to move this tank when i need to. 100km drop it into 3rd and its just as the vct starts to work, ans shit you can feel when the cams work.

dont use any of gulls Ethanol blends. they're very inconsistent at the pump, unsure about the barrels they supply though. If alcotane are still distributing fuel, they do good mixes.

I didnt do the secondary chains. They have tensioners to take up the slack and the chains are short enough that any wear would not cause any stretch issues like the primary. I replaced my water pump while I was in there cause of the high k's. It was starting to show a bit of play and bearing noise. But if yous is fine I'd leave it in there, like what Scotty said.

a good mechanic who know's his way around a stagea, (most wont because they dont need this replacement done often) should be able to do the replacement in a full day. I used to work at nissan and got my parts at cost which was just over $700, retail was about $1k. The fluids need to be replaced, 5l of oil and coolant, you might as well get them to do a oil filter as well. And then the labour factor. So 2.5K is a bit but wouldnt say its to far off the right figure.

i left a message on the other forum, but i've recently replaced a chain also. they do stretch, but this is a 280+ km engine i done. I would class your situation as wear and tear, but then as said if they dont class it to be a failure and they do cover when it does fail they'll be up for a bigger bill to replace the motor than replacing a chain that is 'failing' according to manufacturer's assessment already. So have you decided to get someone to replace it all now for $2.5k?

Haha I was waiting at a intersection, lady behind thought there was a gap I should of gone for but didnt see the Ute coming. So she went thinking I was going to take a gap, but ended pushing the lower left bumper in a little. Dont know how but im happy the boot works.

so after being rear ended in the stagea. the boot latch motor and switch now works perfect, when i brought the car you had to open the window and then the boot from the inside. So one positive out of the accident.

Replaced the cam sensors on the vq25dd and now my warm start problems are gone. Now I can enjoy this wagon.

The coil went back in. Turns out the stagea that borrowed a coil needed all new coils so I got mine back. And we replaced the cam sensors and no more starting problems, fires fine everytime. So happy I can finally enjoy this car. Went for a drive to town and got rear ended. Not major, but just a hassle with insurance now and everything.

will check today. assuming the code is on the coil somewhere? i'm guessing he would be replacing the coil with what should be a correct replacement. but i guess you never know what someone else will hand him thinking it is a dd coil. I thought the vtc wouldnt be the cause of the starting issue. even though the cam might be retarded the timing it should never be enough to not start it right?

Will give the crank sensor a try unplugged. I had to lend my car to my engine recon mate as he done a home job and required a replacement coil for a customers stagea. So he took mine and I told him he can do my sensors while he replaces my coil pack. So you say the washers are common fault? How many have you done, rebuilt the clutch set up or just replaced the whole unit? I tried to understand the Russians but Google translate is shit!

So i've been trying to sort out this starting issue im having at the moment. had a consult unit connected up and it spat out 2 codes for the front vct cover solinoids? i brought 2 new cam sensors prior to this and we decided we might try replacing to covers to see if it fixes the problem, if not then do the sensors. Will also check to see if the magnets were seated properly in the covers when re assembled. sure they can only go on one way. But my last resort is doing a bit of researching this is a common problem code 1110,1136 in Russia. They seem to think its down to the VCT clutch set up on the intake cam, and that the sprung loaded washers bind up and not allow the cam to retract back to standard timing. So now i need to find a shit motor 25det might be the best bet, since they seem to not have any issues with this cam binding. I wonder if the egr system puts carbon back into the oil system through breathing system and the grit binds them up and not the 25det.

So i've been trying to sort out this starting issue im having at the moment. had a consult unit connected up and it spat out 2 codes for the front vct cover solinoids? i brought 2 new cam sensors prior to this and we decided we might try replacing to covers to see if it fixes the problem, if not then do the sensors. Will also check to see if the magnets were seated properly in the covers when re assembled. sure they can only go on one way. But my last resort is doing a bit of researching this is a common problem code 1110,1136 in Russia. They seem to think its down to the VCT clutch set up on the intake cam, and that the sprung loaded washers bind up and not allow the cam to retract back to standard timing. So now i need to find a shit motor 25det might be the best bet, since they seem to not have any issues with this cam binding. I wonder if the egr system puts carbon back into the oil system through breathing system and the grit binds them up and not the 25det.

taken the M35 for a drive this morning, no oil or water leaks. But came home turned it off went to start it and it wouldnt do its warm start again, ran a fault check straight away and got these 2 codes. P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control, LH Bank P1136 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve, RH Bank ​So im guessing that's the VVL front cover on the passengers side? Any help where the drivers side solenoid valve is?

Decided I'd attack this water leak. When we fixed the oil leak, my cousin removed a thermostat housing bolt think it was a front cover bolt. Not realizing where it was from, everything went back together without it. So I put it back in and no more leak. Will take the car for a good long run tomorrow and try sort out this warm start issue.

so you're saying scotty I'll be able to get away with some standard iridium's in my vq25dd now?