projects

I hope I dont have to replace it. Be easier to replace the whole motor.

Pulled the front cover of the vq25 again to find out where this oil leak came from. Turns out when we done the cam chain replacement we cracked the rear cover a bit. So cleaned everthying up. Got some steel knead it and hopefully its done the job. This time we made sure we followed the service manual. Letting all the silicone go off then top up the oil and fingers crossed its fixed tomorrow.

Thanks for that scotty, i'll have to get my mate to pop out to the wreckers and compare his 350z yoke i think. They's a few of them floating around in NZ, seen a few of them in wreckers as well. I struggle to see why nissan would produce a different variation of the RWD Re5 though. Searching yahoo jpn i find the odd shaft on there, but the shipping costs out weigh the cost of the product itself and cant find a picture to confirm the spline count.

here's part of my project build. i designed my own adaptor plate and made it myself. Testing the starter engagement on the flywheel All bolted up ] Dont mind the messy garage and the old HQ project/storage for parts.

You were the man i was hoping would reply, seem to be the stagea guru around here. What about the RWD vq35 re5r05a stagea's? are they a NZ only model? Haha they seem to be going to $300 NZD here brand new. so with the conversion rates and the shipping, i dont think it'd be worth while for you.

Hi Guys Ok i havent touched my stagea in the past few weeks, been to busy with work and family. But im wanting to get back into getting stuff together for my track car build. Question i have for the stagea specialists is the Re5R05a transmission do they run the same driveshaft yoke as the Re5R05a 350z? main reasoning is i know that the 350z 6 speed and Re5 run the same yoke dimensions, just with the dust boot on the yoke not the gearbox. My track car is a S13 Silvia with a RB26 running a 350z 6 speed, and i need to get a custom shaft made and finding a yoke is proving hard or expensive. if the stagea RE5R05a matches i can get a whole drive shaft for a fraction of the price and chop that to size. Any help appreciated guys. i can post a picture of the spline count and look if you might be able to compare.

hi guys, so im digging up yet another old thread with hope ill eventually have a working M35. i think my warm start issue is down to some faulty sensors, the cold start is perfect and fires up fine every time. but once ive driven the car and its built up a bit of heat under the bonnet the car struggles to start again. once its been sitting for awhile it'l fire again. A question i had with regards to the stickers under the bonnet was what do they mean? i have 1 sticker with the R168 on it. but no blank sticker?

ok so done the ecu clear. then done the pedal check, and also the Throtle check, then i done the idle re learn. and its now sitting at 650-700 all the time. very happy about that. but i still have the warm start problem where i think it may be fuel related. so where's the fuel filter on these? might change that to be sure and then work to injectors and hopefully not pump. also might have to do the plugs while im in there. is there any copper altenatives or do i need to fork out for the expensive ones?

So yesterday I got it back running, fired up fine. Idled a little high but was a cold start. Then as it warmed up I still had warm start issues a little to the point were it wouldnt fire at all. Once I got it going the idle was around 1100. Today I'll try reset the ecu, re learn throttle pedal and idle. Hopefully it starts for the idle learning once warm. Also still have a oil leak on the left hand side I need to source.

Thanks for that. Ended up on a maxima forum this afternoon. And found they've been doing the same but using 68k ohm .25w. Closes I could find in a hurry was a 44kohm 5w. So thats wired up and hope I dont get any faults back.

Does anyone know the wattage of the 10ohm resistor? i dont want it to small that it overheats and fry's itself, and i dont want it to large to draw to much from the ecu and damage that.

Yeah those covers are from a vq25dd

i dont this to mine yesterday. i steam blasted the top cover cause of the temp switch and other crap on it i didnt want to drop it in the tank over night. but the bottom cover got a tanking and ended up like this after the carbon build up. Top cover Bottom

so with the covers i steam blasted the top cover cause of the temp switch and other crap on it i didnt want to drop it in the tank over night. but the bottom cover got a tanking and ended up like this after the carbon build up. Now i just need to remove the lower runners and steam clean them, and clean the ports out. also degrease the TB. then put it back together with a couple blanking plates and resistor. Top cover Bottom

Thanks for the prompt reply. i was going to bolt a plate over the up pipe so i didnt have to remove the pipe from the manifold, reason for removing the egr valve was because those 2 bolts that go into the plenum were hard enough to get off i didnt want to have to do them back up. if i was to run just a plate and keep everything plugged in like factory would the ecu through out a fault code, or just open the valve and nothing happen further? I noticed the little butterflies in the runners, wondered what they were there for. i'm going to remove them now and clean them off the motor. Yes everything was caked up in there. once im done i'll run some cleaner through the intake to try clean the remainder ports to the valves.

Hi guys, sorry to did up an old thread. I've recently purchased a VQ25dd Stagea, and having to do a few things to it i've got a warm start problem and sometimes it takes forever to start, but fires fine when cold. couple guys said to do the intake clean and egr blanking. So i followed whats in here, ( egr bolts a terrible to get to ) and the intake was caked up along with the TB. I'm going to steam blast the covers and acid tank what i can and de-grease the rest. Couple questions i had, With the EGR valve i want to remove it completely and run plates over the plenum and up pipe? what do i do with the egr valve plug, leave it empty? With the resistor to wire in, i understand it needs to go into the grey 2 wire temp sensor ? can the sensor not be used as standard, why does a resistor need to be wired in? and all the hoses that run between the egr, plenum and TB what do people do with them? Thanks guys.

Thanks for that, might have to add that to the list of things to look at on the car. Lucky I have access to a acid tank so I might aswell tank them if possible. Will browse the v section now.

thanks for all the help. have read that sometimes the passengers cas fault code doesnt come up sometimes? also how many liters of oil does a engine normally take? EDIT: sorry done a google search and it lead me back to SAU with the figure 5lts.

This sounds like it might be the cause. i've just noticed that i've got a slight oil leak so am having to track that first and sort it out. found one of the 22 bolts for the front cover one wasnt tightened all the way. so will re check them all again and clean it up hopefully sort that out. and then bleed the tensioners cause 3k for 5 min with a oil leak might not be a good idea. as for the battery when i connect up a jumper pack i still have the same issue. but jumper leads to a vehicle the issue is still there just not as bad. there was a timing fault that came back before the chain but thought that was cause of the chain needing replacement. might be a good idea to run a diagnostic again?

Thanks for the welcome, I'm from Cambridge. Only mods would be to lower it and maybe some wheels, it'l be the Mrs daily driver if i can sort it out. Got everything back in and started it up, there was a bit of a tapping sound when it was cold and then it not driven, once i took it for a drive the taping sound had gone. Do these have hydraulic lifters or solid, as i think it might be to do with the oil viscosity? if they're solid then i'm stumped and hope its not play between cold pistons. Also i'm now having a starting issue which i thought the timing was out from the chain, but with that replaced its still hard to start. I'm wondering if its a faulty sensor or if the starter and everything is drawing to much current from a slightly old battery. Would the ecu or learnt that with the old chain and timing been so far out to drive like that. and now its back to factory it cannot start properly? Have booked it in with a auto sparky to see if they can diagnose it next week. Yes this is by far the best site to get Stagea info from i have found out.

sorry i didnt take any pictures of the old chain or the damage it cause to the covers, my hands were filthy and i wasnt going to handle my phone. i can take some photo's of the damages guide, that's about all. this is what i brought for $1500NZD

Hi Guys, Im new to the stagea section i just brought a 2002 M35 VQ25dd RS a couple weekends ago for a stea $1500NZD. High KM's 280,000 worth. So it had a terrible cam chain stretch, sounded like a old type writer going to town under the bonnet. Anyhow yesterday i began to replace this timing chain. No wonder the local dealership said its worth more than the engine to replace them, the labour to get to it was 4 hours worth and a 10min job replacing the chain and guides. spent 30 mins cleaning up the sump front cover and all the mating faces of silicone. People say you dont need to replace chains but this was a prime example of needing it done. As we took the cover off the chain nearly fell off the gears, the timing was out by a good couple degree's made starting really hard. the tensioner was at full and wasnt doing a thing, the top guide had worn down to the metal in the centre. and there was so much slack that the chain had gouged out grooves in the front and rear covers. I was very very close to having the pistons and valves go BOOM! Got the new chain on and its all tight the cams were pulled back into line and comparing the new to the old its tight as a ...... Now we began reassembling the rest of the crap you have to take off to get to it. took 3 hours to get all the covers bolts and pumps back on, still have a hour or so to do tonight after work, getting the radiator, electrics and fluids back into the motor and then listen to the new girl purrrr.

He man, i know this is a old old post, and tried pm'ing you about it. but curious on to how you done the wiring from the factory GR ecu to the A31 dash. im doing the same project at the moment. and think this is going to be the hardest thing on my list. Cheers Shaun