lolorodeo

Dont reckon there was any noticabl performance improvement in it for me, but it did help a bit with shuffling issues i was having.

Found it! Oil pressure sensor.

R33 GTR - can anyone identify this electrical plug? Hi guys, I wonder if anyone can help me to identify a random electrical plug that i cant seem to find a home for? The car is an R33 GTR and the picture is of the intake manifold side of the motor down near the steering column area. I was under the car and found this plug sitting loose, and i cant for the life of me find where it should attach to. Its unusual in that it has a rubber boot like it should be sealing through a bulkhead or something. It comes off from a branch of the loom and doesnt have enough length to make it near the firewall or anywhere where a boot would normally seal a connection. The plug inside is a simple two slot female plug. So, is anyone familiar with the loom on that side of an RB26 and know where it should go? Thanks guys, Kagan

I had the same problem and although it wasnt progressing over a few years i still decided to fix it. Just remove the arch, wire brush and sand it back as far as u can to really clean it up. Its usually just surface rust with some pitting. Then apply some rust converter (which youll get from supercheap etc.), give that the recommended time to penetrate and then u should be able to blend the colour or ive just sprayed the area matt black because it cant be seen unless u look. Thatll hold it off for quite awhile. Ive had no issues since.

Any word on about how much it cost with Autofx?

Hi all, I recently had an os giken comp twin plate installed on my r33 gtr which required a push pull converter. Once its installed though there you lose the rubber boot that normally covers the slave cylinders link into the gearbox which means alm sorts of shit can get in there. So should there be a cover on there or has anyone had an issues without having a boot there? Cheers guys. Kagan

anyone else have any grand ideas before i rip this sucker back out again?

Good to see someone else has this problem. Mine defiantely wont restart once its hit a quarter so at least it typically runs out once ive parked up. Ill have another look but im sure the two tabs that go into the slots to mount the carrier are definately lined up and in all the way because i did have a million goes at getting it to actually go into both slots. Ill recheck that though. Its hard to know if the pickup hose and sock is sitting in 100% the right direction because obviously you can change the direction the hose and the sock both face but i did spend some time trying to get both facing as far down into the direction of that lower drivers side corner of the tank. I may just have to take it out one more time, recheck all the joins, maybe ill replace the hoses in case one of them has a small hole and then ill have one final go at pointing it at the bottom of the tank. Im loathing having to though because that essentially what ive done the last 3 times and nothing has helped. Fatz whats the rubber bung your talking about? Attached is another photo of the car for you paul:). Thanks for the help so far guys, ill see if anyone else has ideas before i get around to pulling it back out.

Last-time i let it run down and then checked where the fuel was sitting, which was pretty much the bottom of the pump or the top of the pickup hose hence why i thought thats where it might be leaking air. There is definately fuel there though. The carrier is definately sitting in the bracket right i think though because ive had it in and out a few times and it looks and feels like its sitting down and home into its holder. Its a shame the tank is such an awkward shape wince it curls around the drivbeline and under the rear seats so you cant see the pickup point. In my old sil80 it was great because you could see the pickup and sit the pump as close to the bottom as you like. Anyone else got ideas?

Hi guys, So i recently got a sard 280L/hr direct replacement pump for my R33 gtr and installed it quite easily. For those that havent seen these basically they fit in the standard position in the cradle and then you just attach the nipple and lower hose/sock from the original pump to the new pump. Now ever since then the car runs out of fuel at a quarter of a tank. Ive had the pump out 4 times...the first i thought maybe id curled the pickup sock up so that it wasnt sucking from the bottom so i reinstalled it and although you cant feel where it should sit in the tank i was fairly confident id got it in the ballpark but this didnt work, next i tried reorientating the sock to make sure it was definately pointing as low into the tank as possible, then it ran out at about the same point again. Next i lowered how low the actual pump sat in the cradle to try and extend it down into the tank but that didnt work and finally i rechecked all the hoses and joins to make sure it wasnt sucking air at any point...the hoses appear all fine and i thought that maybe the nipple wasnt sealed to the bottom of the pump because its a plastic on metal join so i got some fuel proof sealant and sealed the join but it still runs out at a quarter of a tank. Now the other obvious thing is that the float is reading incorrectly but theres two things there. 1. i didnt touch the float and 2. the car is now only getting about 300km to that quarter of a tank mark where its running out when i used to get about 400-450km from a full tank. So does anyone have suggestions, or better knowledge how to make sure that pickup is actually extending down into the right spot because you cant see down there and you cant reach under with your hand? Thanks for any help guys, its driving me nuts having evo like fuel capacity!

Haha thanks mate, those are the ones ive got. I was hoping the one ive got has a little more detail. The main reason ive asked is because the white wire is a dual core wire and if its wired into an R33 gtr ecu in the position that the diagram suggests then it f**ks with the afm signal and brings on the 2500k rpm cut. So i mostly need to find what the hell to do with a dual core wire and that signal. Rare stuff is a bitch! Thanks for the help though.

Ive searched google, and every skyline forum worldwide i could get my hands on so if youve got it then thatd be great. I have a translated chinese part from the GTRHK forums and ive managed to get this piece from a bloke who happened to have one in its original box. So translating some simple japanese should be easier surely.

Hi guys, Im having trouble with the nismo screen in my dash and epson ej1 controller in my 33 GTR. Its one of those things where it stopped working on the way home from buying the car. In any case ive managed to get hold of a scan of the main pages i need from the installation manual but its in japanese. Can anyone help me with a translation? I particularly need the right hand page. Im hoping i can get this sorted and repost it along with the other install instructions ive got so that other people with EJ1 controllers/nismo dash can search and find install instructions. Thanks guys, Kagan

Am i right in reading that its a L2S license, rollcage/harnesses type event or have i read the regulations wrong? I didnt see a price either.

What pumps are people running in their gtrs over here in perth then?

Heres the link for those that havent seen it http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...mp;hl=bosch+044

Hi guys, Im tossing up spending $380ish on a sard 280L/hr pump and have it fit straight in or spending $200 for a bosch 044 and custom fitting that. Now ive looked over all of the articles etc on fitting and modifying the gtr cradle to fit the pump but has anyone in perth actually done this and can anyone reccomend places where you can actually get the fittings needed i.e. the 90 degree elbow for out of one end and the spear fitting at the sock/filter end? Cheers guys, Kagan

These still up for sale mate? Do they bolt directly into the gtr fuel rail or do they require an aftermarket rail or collars? Cheers Kagan

Hi Mate, Those are the straight fit ones right? Whats the deal with them, have they been installed before/km's etc?

Care to elaborate?

So can someone give me the quick rundown on shuffle?Is it bad or just something that happens? How is it resolved?

Ok so i finally got hold of the written report and had a squiz at it. The tuner wrote that due to the larger turbos fitted there was an inevitable problem with shuffling from the turbos AKA compressor surge and therefore they reccomended the fitment of a djetro. Now i remember asking him "isnt compressor surge caused by the bov not functioning or something similar" and thats when he explained about the uneven pulsing of the cylinders and what not. So does anyone want to try explain what they intepret from that? The cars running fine so im not that worried, im just decding where to take my ecu selection from here. Thanks guys.

Im tempted to just get the djetro anyhow as i was going to put a power fc and z32 afms in anyhow and id think the cost would be pretty close anyhow.

Unfortunately im running with what the tuner told me as i havent heard it myself and the boost gauge is rock solid whilst shes boosting. Basically i hadnt noticed it but the tuner said it was an issue. He said that due to the uneven pulsing of the banks feeding each turbo, the manual boost control and the size of the turbos that it was an issue and he was reccomending a djetro. I asked why then does everyone run similar size turbos on a regular power fc and he said that it was common and they were just ignoring the problem. He wasnt talking about compressor surge though if you think thats what im confusing it with. Hmm well im thoroughly confused as to where to turn next as i cant verify the reversion but the tuner is one of the top gtr specialists in perth so im inclined to take his word for it.

All the stock piping is in place, stock bov, stock cooler....its just the turbos and pods. The tuner is one of the best in WA so i was kinda suprised when they said that it was a problem. Hmm maybe ill look into it a bit more.