Tony de Wonderful

If you are morbidly obese it may explain it?

Yeah really nice car. What's the rough cost of a fresh import out of interest?

Does twin tip sound different from a Cannon?

I spotted one on Leach the other day with no spoiler and it looked good.

I think you would have more back pressure if you filled your muffler with cement and let it dry.

Yeah I agree, but then it is kind of hot in this country.

I dunno I mean fcking w/ riced up lancers is a sport but flooring it past old people I don't feel so good about.

I think the coolant was green. Engine still seems to run smooth and not aware of any smoke etc from 'zaust. I took the cap off the radiator and the coolant residue inside seems fairly 'clean'. Coolant was not sitting flush to the top of the radiator...is it supposed to? Oil level seemed ok also, no sign of gung or stuff on the dipstick except 'normal' engine oil. I noticed on my reserviour there is a kind of 'vent' on top (see pixxor)? Is it possible that it (the coolant) just evaporated away and left behind a bit of concentrated gung at the bottom of the reservoir?

People shouldn't be hogging the right lane when the left lane is free. Forcing people to undertake on the left is dangerous. I hate undertaking on the left as I know the idiot to my right is liable to move left w/out looking. Always very careful about undertaking.

Car hasn't been tracked or dragged, have never seen the temp sensor go more than half-way. Don't give the car much of a thrashing. Occasionally give it WOT but only up to the speed limit. Stock boost BTW, but has FMIC.

Checked my coolant this morning in the reservior, noticed it has gone down to just past the 'min' level and is discoloured brown. I had my mech flush and clean out the radiator about 4000 km ago (back in September). Also did water pump. I'm taking it in for a service in a week anyway. Just wondered if I need to top it back up for just a week? I understand that the level shoudn't go down and that this is a sign of a leak, also the brownish colour could be anything from contamination by oil (due to leaking gasket or *gasp* a failing cylinder?), to just corrosion? If it is corrosion then how is it happening after the radiator was cleaned out and new coolant put in? Or is that normal with a cleaned out radiator?!

Twin-tip is a little ghey to be honest.

Can you notice that? Just wondered?

How is power relevent? The flywheel 'feels' max centrifugal force (trying to tear it apart) at red-line regardless of whether you make 200 or 400 KW.

Well I didn't want the on/off of a button, and the idea is to future proof my car somewhat. I can't see the point of running high power then having to conciously save the clutch 'cos I got a budget upgrade not a real tough clutch. Twin Plate FTW!

I put a Nismo style lip on my S2 for that same reason.

Sounds like your car is a time bomb.

How can the charge - between the throttle body and compressor - that is sent (by the bypass valve) to between the compressor and AFM, all get sucked back through the compressor if the throttle body is shut? I understand the bypass valve equalises pressure either side of the compressor, but I don't see how in a situation going from WOT (and full boost) to closed throttle and idle, you don't end up (after bypass valve actuation) with pressure either side of the compressor which is equal but greater than atmospheric, and so you get atmospheric venting back through the AFM and POD/Filter. The volume of air downstream of the compressor (thanks to FMIC etc) is just too much to be equalised back to atmospheric by venting into the upstream side of the compresser?

Try the key shop down near Piccadily Cinemas.

Just need to cut the springs on one side or change the tire profiles. I think it would be hektic.

Have you considered just putting the gram lights on say the left or right and the other rims on the opposite side? That way when viewied in profile the car doesn't look mis-matched?

You need more low...but what is with the mix 'n 'match wheel sets? Can you lower it much w/out rolling or flaring?

Ok I see so it (the bypass valve) is equalising pressure either side of the turbo then, still I find it hard to believe the system is totally closed. I mean at WOT there is a decent volume of charged air between the turbo and throttle body especially w/ an FMIC. I can't see how if you then equalise the pressure between either side of the turbo you don't end up with more than atmosperic pressure either side and thus some air must flow back out through the AFM (where else can it go?). I know on my car I can get a rich 'pop' from the 'zaust at gear changes at full boost.

You could put the BOV before the intercooler that way you are not venting your cool air way. The stock plumb back BOV...I mean the air that is circulated back to just before the turbo, where does it go exactly? Some of the charge must go back through the AFM and out of the air filter?

I did a launch this morning at ~6 grand, and felt it slip and could smell what I presume is coming from the clutch? It was a stock clutch and I'm getting a new twin plate in ~2 weeks, just thought I'd try and find the limits of my stock one. Well I have Hope it can get me through the next 2 weeks and is not too stuffed?