Tony de Wonderful

When I lived in WA up until early last year I had Xspeed do all my work on my GTST. I had to leave WA rather suddenly due to work (come back to the UK) and my car was work in progress for becoming a stage 1 car. It had various stuff done such as Intercooler and clutch blah blah by Xspeed and I was very happy with the work they did over several months including services, belts etc. I even have them to thank for my car not getting pulverized by that hail storm. I was hoping that Xspeed could have got PowerFC, coilpacks, boost controller done before I had to pack my car in a container and bring it back to the UK, but they couldn't get the PowerFC in time...in fact they were quite hard to get hold of themselves the last couple of weeks and my car was there for a while doing no much after having a clutch done. So Hanson said he could fwd me the PowerFC, coilpack, boost controller to the UK. So paid for everything - including the work done, clutch etc - which was all part of the same invoice. This was perhaps a bit naive on my part but had a lot of things to organise moving back so just did it. So I left Hanson all contact details etc. So result is nothing as a cynic might suspect. I did contact xspeed by email and heard nothing. Phoned up couple of times but must have been busy, and to be honest I can't be f**ked being fobbed off as I am fully aware there is nothing realistic I can do from several 1000's miles away and I am a realist about it. Now Hanson may have sent the stuff for all I know and it got lost. I'm not saying he hasn't sent it, but SAU's you can just read what I wrote and decide yourself. I'm a reasonable man and accept if he forgot to send said items, we all can forget stuff. I'm not accusing Hanson of anything so mods please don't delete just adding to forum my own experience of owning a GTST in WA and dealing with xspeed. Thanks. Joe. FYI my car is doing good and a tidy project on the go.

Really I can't see how a Chinese Plazzaman is any worse than an original. It is just a copy of something where the 'worth' is the design rather than the construction which is very low tech. I suppose you can check inside it and smooth/polish any possible imperfection IF they exist. Unless you are worried about those Chinese welds blowing...

Thread should be peak torque not peak power BTW.

So is runner length and width pointless on Forced induction? I didn't know that? What about off boost torque? It's good to have low down torque I reckon off boost. For my R33 on the street I have the OEM turbo at 0.85 bar. It works really well as a responsive street car because I get full boost and a flat torque curve from just under 3k to just slightly dropping off at red line. So for street speeds. i.e doing 2nd gear pulls it is full of win, really snaps the necks of passengers from the bottom of the rev range.

Well I had a better look at the VLSD center that came out of the car. The only codes I could see stamped on it are 'C5 D6'. I can't find anything on google about this code for R200 diffs. Strangely, Ford seems to uses these codes for LSD's??? Anyway the bolt holes are about 13mm, definitely very slightly larger than 1/2" which would make sense if you were going to put 1/2" UNF bolt through them?

I'm reasonably sure the diff has never been opened. The car was stock when I acquired it. I just realised I have the VLSD center so will measure it. EDIT - Ok I just measured the bolt holes in the VLSD which came out of the car and I make them as 13mm but that is w/out a proper vernier thingy just a ruler and a 'wedge' nozzle gauge. This is just plain odd. It is dark here, will try and get a part number off the VLSD tomorrow.

It's probably more likely that the Cusco had 10mm or 11mm bolt holes do you think then? I know very early R200's are 10mm and I think some R32 R200 were 11mm?? This guy knows what he is talking about though. He was mechanic for a R32 GTR race team back in the day.

Well my mechanic said the OEM ring gear which was mounted to the OEM VLSD was 1/2" uni (12.7mm) bolt holes. This had been on the car since it was made. Basically yes had to open up the bolt holes in the cusco center. I've never heard of Nissan stuff being 12.7 mm. I've heard of 10mm, 11mm, 12mm and even 13mm bolt hole sizes on diff ring gears with Nissan diffs. I dunno if people just say 12mm when they mean 1/2" uni? Do they? I know some Jap stuff is funny as they mix and match metric and imperial. It is definitely an R200 diff as the old ring gear fits perfect over the center. It would make more sense to me if the Cusco was 11 or 10 mm and had to be opened to 12 mm but this 1/2" uni (12.7mm) size which I am told my ring gear is has me confused.

Ok this is what happened. I got a used R200 Cusco mech diff which was supposed to fit R32/R33/R34. My mechanic said it looks about right. He took my OEM R33 GTST VLSD out, unbolted the crown/ring gear and when he tried to bolt the crown/ring gear to the Cusco center, the bolt holes on the Cusco center were slightly too small too accommodate the OEM bolts. He reckons the OEM bolts are 1/2" unified which is 12.7 mm. I had thought they were 12 mm metric. He reckons the Cusco centre had bolt holes which were 12 mm metric but he is not 100% sure, he just drilled them out to take the OEM bolts. I guess they could have been 12mm or 11mm? So do I have grounds to tell the person who sold me the Cusco LSD that it was not exactly what it was advertised as and took 2 hours extra work to fit? The mech who did my work is highly respected and not new to Skylines by far.

Does anyone now the definitive answers on this? It's bolt hole sizes for bolting the ring gear to the center. I got a Cusco 1-way and it had 10 mm holes but was told it would fit an R33. I'm led to believe only very early R200 diffs like on the Z31 had 10 mm holes, but did the NA Skylines have 10 mm too?

They came with a wiper standard but it was an option to have one w/out. Very easy to get rid of using a grommet to fill the two holes. I use rain x on my rear window to help stop water beading. 99% of the time there is NO need for a wiper. If the water continues to bead then drive faster. Use the heater to de-mist it.

Drive slow and use the tallest gear possible. So cruise at say 80 on the freeway in 5th.

It's authentic 'street art', what do you mean?

LOL yeah I thought that was just dumb at the end of the movie, talk about a missmatch. I don't hate the R35 just excites me about as much as a washing machine, it's really not a tuner car despite what some may say. It's basically a luxery sports car which is made to be driven very fast with very little ability and effort to flatter the rich Drivers. A Jap sports car for western audiences.

I'm sorry but this stat obsessing and willy waving is an American disease, it is for people who care very little about cars in reality. It's not much better than dyno queening.

Not necceserily mad082. If the Driver already on the roundabout was speeding for example then they would be in the wrong even if they were there first. Same if say it was at night and they had no lights on.

The 2nd one is for the active front diffuser/spoiler thingy.

Well if you are gonna destroy an engine may as well do it properly right? Good thread anyway and lessons to be learned.

Get a cheap S13 with a welded diff. Good introduction to RWD Imports and if you don't oversteer it into a tree in your first two weeks you are a good driver.

Yes but the HICAS sees a fault, because the rack is disconnected, so goes into fail mode, applying minimal power assist to the steering, and the light comes on too (I removed the bulb).

A proper mechanical LSD not the POS VLSD.

Well I have done this now and it does make the power steering heavy all the time, so you lose the light feel at low speeds (under about about 60 kph I think it is).

A dual clutch gearbox eliminates lag anyway.