Tony de Wonderful

Well I don't think any filter is 100% effective so could get sucked in? Also if you have the re-circ valve and OEM blow-by set up then that all that vents very close to the AFM so you could get some air and crap going backwards through it under the right conditions. Still I don't see how the mesh is gonna stop it. If the mesh is gonna stop that then it would be a massive impedance to airflow in the other direction also.

I'm not sure what that proves or how it means a car will have problems with the mesh removed.

You are right I have not driven a recent EVO, but I tend to dislike trick electronic diffs and all the stability trickery.

Classic WRX's are not unreliable at all. They are just not strong enough to take much power increase on the OEM internals and gear-box....not strong like say an RB25 is strong, plus you have the AWD which is very unforgiving of brutal launches and hooliganism. The AFM's only go if people start putting POD filters on or messing with stuff. The EVO's are stronger but I wouldn't say they are more reliable per se. Don't forget they are more complex, have more trick electric stuff, I know people who have had to replace loads of stuff and it costs $$$$'s. I've got a classic STI and it's a really good car. It handles decent and is very responsive. The boxer engine will rev to 8k just need to hit 4k to get decent torque so it's very different to an RB25. I'll probably sell it soon though. I'm not a huge fan of the 2.0L rally types car, just the way they feel. I much prefer the RWD coupes. I wouldn't get an EVO...to much electronic trickery.

Do you have an evidence to support reversion?

Doesn't sound much but all adds up and it's a 2% which takes 10 mins and is free. Peeps spends $$ doing head porting and polishing for just a % or two.

In 'Four Stroke Performance Tuning' by A Graham Bell, it says you can get up to a 2% power increase by removing the mesh. I agree it is there to smooth out the flow but my thinking is that I have a symmetrical POD filter on the end anyway. The flow is already entering the mouth of the AFM in a uniform/equal way, rather than the OEM airbox where it get sucked in a round a kind of bend and to one side. So I reckon with a POD you don't need it and my car runs good.

Would you be better off with less aggressive cams and a normal (performance) exhaust like a HKS Silient? Just thinking laterally a bit.

How about a custom system with two centre resonators/mid mufflers? Also twin tip big oval rear muffler?

Restricts flow.

I went up to 12 psi on the standard ECU and it was pulling timing and the torque curve looked like a crinkle cut crisp side-on. I had 3" 'zaust, sports cat, FMIC, POD filter. But also a hard intake pipe and I cut the mesh off the inside of the AFM. It made 206.5 rear wheel Kw's on a custom tune with dragging rear brakes so was obviously flowing very well with all the intake and 'zaust mods.

Nothing wrong with a nice induction sound - it keeps things lively and entertaining. The stock airbox is wank, it is massive and taken up loads of engine bay space as well as looking like cr@p. I'm all for say an ARC airbox but f**k the OEM offering right off. As for running a side-mount with 12 psi on the stock turbo I don't think that is very good advice at all, especially in a hot country. Only a fool would buy an R34 SMIC especially if they are gonna get a bigger turbo later.

How you can do a proper temp correction on a turbo car is beyond me? It's not just a linear equation concerting the amount of O2 (like for a nasp) but complex shit involving intercooler efficiency and all sorts. I wish peeps would just quote power at the wheels - on the day - and not the jiggery pokery of corrected this and that.

If they are both making the same power how can the smaller turbo be worse unless you mean you are loading it too much?

What's the BOV that quacks like a duck?

Bump Was this ever resolved? What cams are in the very late S2's with the black CAS? Is it cams from the Neo engine??? According to wiki the RB25DET and Neo cams are different profile: So Nissan would have either have had to machine a special cam to accept the black CAS, or just take the upcoming Neo cam - when they were building the very late S2's.

Age 32. Gender - Non specific.

Is it true that you need to use the Tomei eliminator kit or you end up with heavy steering at low speeds?

Me? It's a Trust/Greddy one which came with my FMIC kit. I filled it with bright washer soap/cleaner stuff.

Maybe you dislodged some crud and it dropped into one cylinder?

Here's mine. Work in progress though and poor camera skills.

In theory the threads don't 'see' pressure since the sealing is done by the two thingies which mate together (not sure what they called) - Know what I mean?

The front lines failed a UK MOT on my car for not being secure, even though I used the OEM bracket and clip thingy.

Well the system looses any dynamic pressure but it's still experiencing the static pressure caused by the radiator cap. But your idea sounds good and it would suggest that the system is running very hot indeed if it is able to boil despite the rad cap.

Well the system looses any dynamic pressure but it's still experiencing the static pressure caused by the radiator cap. But your idea sounds good and it would suggest that the system is running very hot indeed if it is able to boil despite the rad cap.