druzilla32

while the car is rolling, turn the car completly off (turn off turbo timer).. then turn the car back on while its still rolling.. this will keep ABS but will turn 4wd off

is there just one plug on the back for all of the dials? like an ecu plug?

how do you remove the speedo cluster in an r32 gtr? does the whole dash need to come out?

i have used an r33 kit on a 32 and it was perfect

i have had to cut the blades you wont be able to cut the hole with a hacksaw. you will need a circular drill bit. also buy some small rubber tubing, and split it so its like a "C" and run it around the edge of the hole you drilled.. it will look neater and will stop any squeaking if the piping happens to touch the edge of the hole

r32 gtr rear wing, wine red - $80 connecting rods - $150 2x cams - $150 brisbane

i have a set... only after $150 for them too. i will post at buyers expense.

yeah, however next time im just not going to say anything and let em think what they want.. then everybody is happy

no need to apologise for some of the smart ass comments i received guys... I FORGIVE YOU!

i would imagin it would be prety damn hard to get it back in. you could just bypass the solenoid and go straight to a pressure source.. and put a BC there if you still want to adjust the boost

read the 1st post on page 4. on my thread.. i dont want to start this again.. i might get ass raped again (ahem, even tho i was right, ahem )

lol :lol: i just had a huge argument with a couple of people about this sort of thing.. see thread> why was my GTR running so much boost. mainly the last page!! ps. for temporary solution disconnecting the hose the the boost solenoid will result in running stock boost (if no boost controller is installed) now i have started it here! :lol: sorry guys

thank bloody criest you came along... nobody beleived me!

lol.. ive been ass rapped in this thread. just saying what happened thats all, o well

yeah i plan to do as the others have said, i will still be using the standard solenoid tho, and just getting a new hose. the test was done on an aftermarket gauge.

could it be possible that without the solenoid receiving the signal it was put into safe mode... resulting in standard boost? just a thought (cuz im not shitting when i say it was standard boost without the hose connected) on one of my other gtrs that had the restrictor removed, i have had one of them run in safe mode and it wouldnt boost over 8psi (it only had a cat back)

i can understand how to run minimum boost.. i was just told something that i had to query because of the rep of the person who told me this. (the removing hoses to actuator question) at the start of this thread i said i dissagreed and that it would run unlimited. but does anybody know why my gtr was on standard boost with the hose to the boost solenoid removed? i also understand that it should have run unlimited.. but when it was done, it was still on 10 psi, it didnt spike or anything. and the whole zip tie around the hose to the solenoid thing, is meerley a way of restricting the hose the same was as the brase olive would. but as somebody advised it migth not be a good idea because the tie might streatch when it heats up. so il get a new hose.......

hmm.. no i think this because i have done it before. i disconnected the hose and it made no difference to my boost then i connected it with the restrictor removed and boost was up to 1 bar. i can see where you are comming from, im just saying this cuz this is what happened when i did it. has anybody else in this thread drivin a gtr with the hose removed to the solenoid? im gona use a life line...

it will last longer then having the pipe connected with no restrictor i have tried it... and yes... it was on standard boost... it runs from the actuator which should be around 8psi unless its been modified. (mine was on 10/11psi because it had an exhaust)

sorry but this doesnt run unlimited boost, it runs standard boost

i will be upgrading the solenoid shortly

no i dont want any raised boost at all, thats why i dont want a bleeder. nooo bleederr an ebc will be on its way shortly. anyway i beleive if the hose to the SOLENOID is disconnected completly and there are no leaks from pressure to the actuators, then this should run standard boost. (or whatever the spring is set to)

are you talking about the hose the the actuators or the standard boost solenoid? cuz im talking about the solenoid i can see how restricting the hose to the actuators will raise boost tho

i think your thinking of the wrong hose.. im talking about the hose to the solenoid.. not the actuators

i was talking about tightening the hose up where the boost restrictor use to be, and closing the hose up to about the same as when the restrictor was in place.. im not talking about the hose to the actuators.. i mean the one where the restrictor is.. (the yellow ring around the hose near the battery)