2pee

It was common knowledge at one stage - maybe not anymore judging by the response. Most recent one I can think was a mate's dyno room probably 5 years ago, cursing a customer's twink that made a nice mess on the floor and walls. Big lever arm on a small NPT, BSPT, BSPP, whatever, it doesn't really matter.......poor wording on my part.

I'd be avoiding those brass adaptors, except for very temporary use. Once you add vibes, weight of that, plus sensors, the tapered threads form a nice, fail here point.

Tried John Tripp? (07) 3285 7320. Not sure if he has sub 1mm, but he's made one-offs for us in the past as required.

"Coming to Australia".....you're a bit late! Unless you're Rip van Winkle, the EPA for the last 30 years, at least in NSW, have demonstrated that modification, as what is performed over there to registered cars, is illegal. A proper race car is unregistered or on a permit at best - nil effect locally - and suspect the same there.

Ummm, SX-E bested EFR each time!

Adrian at Garage48 seems to be a glutton for punishment and does a fair bit of this if you're anywhere near Sydney. While back, I heard, he subbed out the tedious cutting exercise to someone - and they managed to turn a lot of tube to scrap by making an angle on one face and a straight cut on the other!

Horsies are more powerful than killer wasps naturally! Old mate should go for an investment cast block as per proper practice, ha. There's that many donkeys with cnc mills turning out engines with superfluous casting features carried over and a few with poor alignments, I would be hesitant to lay hard currency down. A pet hate is the use of billet in the automotive world, but that's a losing battle, might as well call it, dumb cee you next Tuesday, aerospace grade.☺️

Ha, the prosecutor's line! ☺️ Surprise, surprise, story is online even, patch Do agree, this bloke (in the US?) would be better off biting the bullet rather than trying to resurrect crap.

Bores being perfect might be a bit of an overstatement! I'd be pretty dubious about welding this, the last of the guys who I would've trusted even attempting this repair used to operate a backyard furnace in the 70s and the last of the partners died about 20 years ago.....all the good ones here were ex-railway workshop it seemed. If the thing is anyway salvageable and you're desperate, machining, tapping and gluing might introduce far fewer stresses. One Ayrton Senna, won a championship, running just such a repaired engine which had a serious "alternator failure" at one stage.

One thing to consider with EM, you'll be lucky to garner any coverage, beyond a few seconds even if you "win". It's ok, if everything is off your own bat, trying to offset your costs with a bit of sponsorship on the other hand, might be a hard sell. The tour participants probably see more TV time.

Would expect you'd be looking for something beyond 10mm - a 12mm or 1/2" DI, if this is a moderate performance application. Chinese probably can't stuff up something as simple as this you'd hope either - and if you go to the usual suspects like H&F, probably the most likely country of origin you'll find! One thing I will say, get an analogue one, digital are horrible things!

Third parties still involved in these low volume turbos? How do they pronounce aluminium in Qld too, or was a US education involved?☺️ Hard to tell how deep the first defect is. When making bellmouths in the past, toolmarks were erased with a quick pass with paper, might be a bit of a trick to get between those lips! Perhaps a thin stick with some fine emery might have fixed that first housing. I'd probably worry more about abrasive grit getting past aftermarket air filters than those tiny bits though. I'd think with likely flood coolant on a small production run, rather than a 1 or 2 off, and css, there's not going to be a huge amount of heat at the insert cutting this stuff. I see all the multiple drilled and tapped holes on the BW housings, doesn't strike me as a good idea to use non heat treated material, even if it does save a few cents. The B1 frame ones I've glanced at, do seem to have that fine grain usually associated with hardening of 356, although sometimes the deeper you go into a casting or even wrought bar, the gummy bits appear.

Oil in a pump would probably make it dangerous goods for airfreight. If you went the ebay lucky dip route, some flare caps and tape would make it oil tight, but guess most sellers are lazy, otherwise one of the US >Au container shippers shouldn't have an issue with a leaky box, but that will probably end up costing more with port charges and all the BS. If you discount the chinese brands, MSCN will have -16 hose. Fittings will be eye-watering even with discount, but cheaper than Earls at Silverwater! If you're getting a pump from the States and a load of that stuff also, might look at https://www.anplumbing.com/....at least you should avoid the 10% surcharge from the usual suspects.

Yeah, I'd think I'd choose one or the other method. It's not as if there's more than a few thou clearance in a pump - a good one at least - if there's a mismatch in a drive ratio I could see a hose either being pressurised or collapsing under suction. One of the advantages of an external pump, you can spin it up with an battery drill to get oil pressure, disadvantage, you can throw a belt if things come loose or the usual stone in the kittylitter happens. Seeing you want to put the tank in the boot, I might use -16 feed too.

Short of buying an ebay bit of junk that a part of a valve spring has passed through, not sure there's too much wrong with most pumps now. Barnes used to be considered one of the best pumps made, back when, mate has an Autoverdi on his car that is very nice and there's a Petersen, scavenge only pump on the car here. Guess your biggest decision will be a gear v lobe pump. Running a pressure stage to the stock pump, seems a bit curious to me. The sump here accommodates the stock pump, a flange sandwiches the 3mm al sheet sump and bolts on where the oil pick-up strainer would attach, male dash 12 welded onto that feeding from the oil tank.....and bob's your aunty.

Getting someone to cad plate might be a bit difficult! Last time I had need of that, probably 25~30 years ago, the plater lost half the fasteners in the tub and it was a heavy metal nighmare even then. He's long since dead and out of business, expect aviation use might be the last holdout - if you can find someone who does that as a sideline - if it simply must be cad. Gold passivated zinc plating is what I would have expected even back in the 80s on jap cars though.

In the later days of the operation, Tony Simmons was getting the casting done in China.....and he was complaining they were knocking off the design, or backdooring product, quelle surprise! Might be worth a few pesos to the right person, as those look appropriately aged.....and not the new junk. If the damage is to the halves, I believe whitehorse industries would be the people to get some new ones spun-up.

If you can still find them, PFC 97s would probably do it - with a lap or two to warm up....used to trim the 0460 shape in the more aggressive compounds they had, fairly regularly for another vehicle.....and believe they suited your caliper.

It was the disclaimer on all sets sold, when I'm sure it was to prevent any moaning and whining in the event someone's set didn't get any life. One set here has taken punishment for most of this year, although when I spoke to them to get an idea of condition, rather than rely on an ebay ad, the mantra was repeated. They also had the 6758s in .85 A/R - I'd expect fewer of those in future though.

Stu Kelly was the guy - wrote the name down for someone the other week who was sick of flange turbo issues on a circuit car, but he didn't want to go 2nd hand. Of course, can't find the link where I saw it now! These were the Roush ones, you might see if there's more coming into stock with the end of the season - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/272367099100?rmvSB=true

They come and go a bit, so you have to keep your eyes open. Nothing I know of currently, other than possibly the 6758 in .64 @450 from someone in Indianapolis. Would have thought that turbo with the .85 indy housing would be pretty good for your application minimizing the EBP penalty. Wasn't looking for one and I didn't watch the end result, but there was a 7163 on ebay last week mid 300s with speed sensor, not listed under borg warner or EFR but indycar. That guy, I've bought several items in the past from, is mshindy, if it's listed in his feedback yet. He's had the Honda, cheater spec 9180 T4 welded to the manifold in the past too! The 7163s I got were earlier this year via Roush, were ex Penske...and I like to think, ex Will Power. Flanges are a bit of a pain - and hate machining stainless unless it's 303.

I probably would have seen if you could get a swap of the "big" housing on the 6758 if mostly used for autocross. Prices you've paid seem a bit steep too! 7163 indy with the .85 v in/out picked them up for $US350 a while back, saw those .64 6758 being offered for $US450 in one ad recently too...but expect you could have bought for less. Are you buying a 2.84" flange somewhere off-the-shelf?

If that image is your actual car, that toe base might give me some concern. Can think of several people who have built multiple sport sedans over the years who are usually up for a chat, without knowing where you are though, best to join the State club and someone should point you in the direction of who to consult. As mentioned though, most do it via software nowadays, even if they're more comfortable with a drawing board.

Assume the 7163 aluminium chra is the same as the old 6758 indy car one...excluding the wheel diameters. Is there any possibility of BW supplying or producing them again?

Nah, not the OP. The "wizard" earlier in the piece after 30/35 years still has certain self-destructive tendencies, amazing.