JDM_Spirit

Hey Buddy, Very Impressive!! What ECU are you running in this? Cheers

Bump...........

Early morning hour reading hurts... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...l=stagea+cradle darrinspencer's thread OK... Possible options; Quotes from........... M I K E "...s14/15 rack will fit and is roughly 50mm narrower than the auto stagea cradle and is pretty much identicle width to a factory manual stagea cradle. you have to use an s14 turbo subframe though - no hicas either ..." "...you could run an s14/15 frame and keep your current struts?.." RED513 "...Auto stagea shafts-5x1, long skyline shafts-5x1, std length.." "...I'd source a R33 Gtst cradle and shafts, same hubs, same struts, same diff & cheap cheap. Check rear toe arms and Hicas lock bar or go S14/15 cradle but even they flex! (Extra bar welded between toe arms in MIKE's pic above) Rather then try source New rear struts + complete autech rear or Gtr rear then change diff ratios..." unique1 "...The arms on rs4 and 260rs are the same lengths..." "...Also dont forget you will need fork end coilovers on the rear..." msports180 "...Front track on the autech is 20mm wider to..." Just to clear any confusion up. My ONLY Goal is to Reduce the Rear Track. NOT upgrade shafts, diff, etc

That Ive heard... "Nissan used a R33 GTR cradles in all the Manual Stagea's along with GTR Diff + Shafts." Its just what Nissan chose to do... Also, factory Manual Stagea's have the same Track Front+Rear (dont quote me, only what I heard awhile ago)

Hello Team! Ok, Ive been reading around, but cant seem to find a deffinent answer... Im looking at finally getting some good sized wheels. But to get them to fit, I need to ditch the wide track rear cradle so the Front + Rear are the same. I did read that I shall require a R33/34(?) GTR Rear Cradle. But I dont know what else? I currently have; -Tien Coilovers(To suit Stagea) -Adjustable Tow Arms -Adjustable Camber Arms -Whiteline Swaybar (R34 GTR) -R34 GTT Calipers + Rotors So what I know is I should be able to re-use; on a 33GTR Cradle(Please Confirm?) -Stagea Diff -ALL Arms -Swaybar -Brakes -Coilovers I think the only problem is the Drive Shafts been shorter and the GTR shafts have a different Bolt Pattern?? I know a few people have done this. If someone could point me in the right dirrection Id really apprieciate it Thankyou in advance

He lies... UV + Platic = Pain. Shouldnt park your car in the Sun so much... Re: pipster11 - They only cheap HID's I picked up a long time ago... eBay Spec most likely. Compared to the factory Xenons... the Xenons look on the 'Yellow' side of things LOL Will be replacing the Xenons with 6000k HIDs to even things up down the track. Its only a quick snap... but heres how they look.

I threw my Fogs in the Oven after Preheating to 90c for 10min, the lens came off VERY easy with the help of a flat blade screwdivers. I removed the Yellow Glass Filter + the Amber Filter for the indicator. Recently installed 50 Watt 6000k HIDs in the Fog lights, Looks A MILLING DOLLARS!!! I cant stress how much better it looks. IMO... Just did this to a mates Stagea aswell. That I have seen,read and heard, we're the only 2x on the coast with HIDs in the Fogs

^^ Hey, Nah shes still here. All boxed up ready for freight ^_^ Let me know

Bump.

I got a S2 Stag. Pod, CAI, TBE, Front mount, 11psi, Nistune + Street tune(Going on dyno in a few weeks). At the moment HW driving I get 11.5L/100km... City driving 14L/100km. I am chasing 10L/100km

I got mine from Nissan Spares... They had 20x in stock. Trade Price $203.... Thats the Neo o2 by the way

Sold............... pending payment

Still here...

Cheers for that. Yeah, Turn Around Time doesnt bother me, provided its not like 20x hours labour I rung a place thats local here on the Coast. He said he's never done a Stagea before. I should visit him in the morning and explain its 99% a Triptonic 34. I rung him last week and he had did abit of a search for me. Said theres no Listing for Stagea's. Stupid me not mentioning the "Same as a 34 GTT" But he did mention something about removing the Valve Body and Modifying it...? I also enquired about a service, he said, "..seeing as the Pan will be off and its Half Way there, I'll only charge for the Filter + what ever fluid is needed to flush.." He said he wants to see what box it is just to confirm the model. As One Model has 6x Valve Bodies and the other has 1x. I'm hoping its the Series 1 box that has 6x?? He also mentioned about going to whole 9 yards and going Kevlar Bands etc... Est $1500................... My reply, "I'll pass." I'll visit him in the morning and see how I go. If all fails I'll visit Western Suburbs Automatics Thanks, Aerron

Hey, As I know squat about Auto's Id more then likely get a Trans shop to do it for me. As it WILL require a service/flush BAD. The biggest incentive to do this is to go to the strip Need to kick a mates SS(Common-door-poo) Hey buddy, I remember talking to you on the Cruise the other week. I was hoping you'd reply. I rung them last week and the guy was abit of a.. nob.. to say the least(PMS maybe?) I dont mind doing the hike if they have done it previously on a Stagea and your happy with it You wouldnt happen to have the details of your kit? Receipts might have the details? Thanks Yeah, I was shocked by the brown colouring Me + Auto = headaches. Give me a Manual anyday... Trans Shop will be doing all the work for me. + I like the idea of some form of garentee/warentee. For that piece of mind

Hey everyone, Well Im a few weeks from finishing my tune and with the current street tune I noticed the Auto isnt liking one little bit. I checked the fluid level and the level is fine. Its the colour that is concerning. Its more of a chocolate brown / red... imagine a melted Cherryripe So first thought was "Just get a service".. but after reading a little on the forums and watching some stuff on Youtube. Im now sold on a Shift Kit Ive read a few things about the guys and girls in Adelaide visiting MV Automatics for a Kit. I was wondering where I should/could go up here in QLD. Note: Yes, I would love a manual. No, I dont need a manual. Cheers, Aerron

... Well.... technically I drove on a piece of My Road as part of my Tax and Rego paid for it. Im running 17's with 500km old 235/45R17's. GPS : 110km/h Needle = 117km/h ish

I wasnt so much stressing, more so curious You did bring up alot of good points... My partner works for Toyota, she was telling me recently that all staff were warned that the new Tarago's speedo can be inaccurate by Approx 20km/h ... I was rather shocked. Toyota... a leading manufacturer could be that far off. Fresh out of the box even? But it is a Luck the Draw so 1-2% of the production could be wrong. I bring this subject up as I went for a VERY EARLY Sunday Morning blat to stretch the Stag's legs out. (Yes I know its dangerous to me and others etc... so smack me down if you will) I was reading Navman's Speed as I did so, noticed that the Stags needle was above the Odometer(roughly 5 o'clock) and the Navman only said 190km/h... So I continued onto 205km/h. I know using Nissan Consult you can re-calibrate a R33's Spedometer. Is it possible in the 34's/Stagea? Cheers

Ever wondering if your speedo is accurate? So far Ive been in 2x Stagea's (mine and a mates) and both speedo's were out by 10%. So for every 10km/h on the clock it was out by 1km/h... Note: This was with FACTORY Spec Tyre Dimentions + Factory Alloys. Ie: 10Km/h(clock) = 9km/h(Real Time) & 110km/h(clock) = 100km/h(Real Time) I noticed when I used to hit Speed Cut at 180km/h.. Navman would be Register 170km/h. Someone once told me that Nissan did this so you didnt speed? and its only till 100km/h(Real Time) as very few free/highways exceed this speed. Cheers, Aerron

Hello everyone! A good friend of mine told me that someone on this forum was looking for one of these. Im not entirely sure what it is called. So HUD Display is what I call it. It replaces the dash clock. Has a Mount with clips and clicks into the Clocks Supports(Once the clock is removed) Displays: - Clock - Compass - Timer - Speed - Outside Ambient Temp Also has a Dim Feature to reduce glare. When I removed it, the wiring was rather simple. With the usual 12 +, Acc +, Ground - and Illumination with the Addition of another that taped into the Factory Climate Control to read the Ambient Temp. Although, STILL unsure as to HOW the Speed and Compass worked? Location: Gold Coast, QLD Contact: Aerron - 0414 595 397 Price: $ 100 ono See Pics below...

I sent my ECU away and got it back. I only got the bare basic Mods (FMIC + TBE) Nistune Type 4 Board(Neo) Supplied+Fitted+Frieght = $370 2x hours tune time = $190 /hour ($380) Total = $750 Drive away. Note: I will be doing ALL the Pre-Dyno checks - Clamps, Plugs etc

Anyone feel free to correct me. But I do believe that Auto's should be dyno'd in 3rd, as 3rd is a 1:1 ratio. Same as 4th in a Manual = 1:1 ratio. I've seen a Stock (with basic FMIC etc) R33 Dyno'd in 4th = 220rwhp then in 3rd = 260rwhp. So in saying this. I'd say, you actually have more then 100awkw. If this make sence?................

Mine copped a bit of coin leading up to the QLD meet... Profec EBC Dump Pipe Front Pipe High Flow Cat Rear Camber Arms Rear Toe Arms Cooler Piping Cold Air Induction Rear Calipers + Pads + Rotors Nistune Board + Partial tune Mounted the Defi guages properly Getting new tires this Thursday... Best of all... I washed it Almost forgot.. I picked up some Personalised Plates

Up at QLD Raceway last night........................ Spotted a Green S1 Ive seen around before.. and a White S2... I walked to it thinking it was mine

Me + 3