JDM_Spirit

*Puts Hand up*.. Sign me up..................... Ive never driven Sunny Coast Hinterland? So Im keen!

Found some today Mods Please Delete.

I can Freight...

Hey everyone, Im chasing a pair of 32/33 GTS-T or 34 GT-T Rear Brake Calipers. I would prefer pick up somewhere in SE QLD... But will freight if need be. I don't require Pads nor Rotors. Let me know what you got Thanks, Aerron

Hey buddy, I was wondering if you would part with the Rear Brake Calipers? Cheers

Hey everyone, I have a Neo RB25DET Turbo for sale. Yes its a real Neo Turbo... has the V45 Front housing, OP6 Rear housing etc. I can supply a factory Dump Pipe if needed? Condition: - Well it blew Smoke on cold start up. Id suggest High Flowing - Came off my Stagea with 79,000kms - Looks and smells like a turbo Located: - Gold Coast, QLD Price: - $200 ono..................................................................... Contact: - 0414 595 397 or PM Thanks, Aerron

Well time for an update and conclusion. Thursday night: - Picked up new turbo Friday: - Got all new Gaskets, Copper washers, Turbo tabs etc from Nissan (SO glad they had them all in stock) - Painted all the heat shields matte black - Blocked/Eliminated the PCV - Heat wrapped the water feed line (Cause I could) - Cleaned all the engine bay up (Stuff Ive wanted to do but couldn't due to turbo been in the way) - Started the Re-turbo'ing of the Stag....................................................... Saturday: - Went fishing. Sunday: - Finished all the work and went for a drive. Monday: - Checked for leaks. All good - After sitting in the garage for 18hours turned her over. NO SMOKE! Let it run for 5 min, went for a short drive... NO SMOKE! OMFG!!! SO HAPPY! Oil is still Gold from when I changed it 2x weeks ago. Its about 1000km till next service. So I'll do a engine flush and fill her back up then. Only difference Ive noticed is that the 'Hair Dryer' sound isn't as loud? Checked over everything. Runs exactly the same. Same spike it always had, some response. Im not complaining Thanks for reading and the input RE: pipster11 Im going to swap to HPR10, see how it goes. Should be good, now its getting cooler leading into winter

Jaw hits floor. Im liking this idea of a Bus sideways!

I dont trust the lighter oils considering QLD climate. Ive seen too many imports fail due to thinning oil. Mostly SRs but... thats another story. The HPR15 is highly reccomended by all performance shops here(unless shes got 0 Kms). Its really not much thicker then 10w40. I dont mind waiting that extra 60 seconds for it to warm up . Remember, its generally the temp. of the road the destroys the oils properties. Daily driven, traffic, stop and starts. Sump 6" above 40+degree tarmac = . Im real padantic about driving cold motors. I wont get into it unless I know 100% everything is fine, happy and gooooooooooooooood I always warm my cars up. But not for too long. I also know the downs to idling a car for a long period of time... .

Im not fussed on keeping the PCV functioning as the Catch can is still plumbed into the intake. So crankcase gases will still be burned up at some point, one way or another. Plus the Neo Engine Cover keeps everything tidy and hiden I personally see catch cans as a Prevention/Band Aid. Depends... what got there first? The Can or the Problem? OK, UPDATE TIME! Turbo is off, took about an hour using the usual Yelling and Swearing Technique. Upon inspection, the compressor housing and elbo has a very fine film of oil. But could have been there prior to Catch Can install. Looking at the rear, no obvious leaks(I was REALLY hoping it would dribble out and FINALLY give me an answer FML! ) Only sign of anything, was a 'rainbow' blemish around the rear wheel and gate. Doesnt tell me much, besides that oil has burnt at somepoint. Going down to Gavin Woods to visit my Mech. for a final inspection. I plan on replacing this turbo, as there is abit too much shaft play for my liking. Could have caused a seal to fail also. Either way, Shaft Play is not a Turbos best friend. Hopefuly should have another turbo back on Thursday night/Friday. Wont be able to confirm a final fix till all the DW-40 has burnt off and Motor has cooled again. So Saturday is judgement day. IF it still smokes... I will MOST likely IMPLODE.

Hey buddy, How many K's are on the turbo? Any smoke, shaft play etc? Also, would you frieght to the Gold Coast? Thanks

Hey everyone, I'm hunting for a Neo RB25 Turbo.................................. I don't require Lines, Dump nor Elbow. Just after a Decent R34 Turbo at a Decent Price I'm located on the Gold Coast QLD. Willing to drive a bit... if not... Il pay for freight! Let me know what you got! 0414 595 397

Penrite HPR15 SAE 15W-60. PCV is going to cop a blocking tomorrow

Re: scotty nm35 Stinky Rooster Very good points Ok, should have mentioned, I have a catch-can between the Exh. Cam cover breather and the intake. I left the Can in the sun upside down so any/all oil could run out. After 3x hours, nothing just a light film inside. I know to eliminate 'Rings' I should get the tests done, but, the Smoke goes away(You would never know) and the catch can is virtually empty. Therefore I didn't believe the crack case nor head was pressurizing. I was thinking of Blocking the PCV valve (as I have so on previous Skylines etc) as the "S" hose is split. Id prefer the catch can to do all the 'emission' work. Also helps as a 'sure sign' IF something was to fail. Ie: Rings. Prior to Turbo removal Checks; -Check the 'S' hose in a minute to see if its lodged with oil or not. -Check Cooler for oil. IF Catch can is Empty, the cooler should be clean. May as well cover all bases Thanks, Aerron

^^ Thanks man, I HOPE its just Turbo Ok, after several hours of reading and searching Ive had a boost of confidence. Ive been trying to narrow it down between Valve Stem Seals and Turbo Seals. Valve Stem Seal Symtoms; -Blows blue smoke upon Cold start up. = YES Due to oil seeping past seals, whislt turned off. -Once warm will settle down to a faint mist if anything at all. = YES As the excess oil leaked will be burnt up. -Exhaust WILL smell like burning Oil. = YES Its bruning oil so of course it will. -When HOt, at HIGH RPM, If I boost and let off, will plume Blue Smoke. = NO Due to sudden spike in vacuum, will PULL oil passed Stem Seals. -Will always perform the above symtom. = NO As Vacuum is a constant contributing factor during opperation. -Will foul up Spark Plugs with ash deposits. = NO (Well not that I can see) Excessive oil will burn in the cylinders Turbo Oil Seal Symtoms; -Blows blue smoke upon Cold start up. = YES Due to oil seeping past seals, whislt turned off. -Once warm will settle down to a faint mist if anything at all. = YES As the excess oil leaked will be burnt up. -Eventually WILL give way and spew oil through the exhaust and potentially sieze. = NO THANKYOU Lets stop it before it gets this far. So as you can see, although both possibilites share a couple of symtoms, the Stag isnt showing half of what the Valve stems should be. So for the moment I have high(er) hopes. One last note: I also read, due to the car having such low Kms, it is possible the Oil Drain could be clogged/blocked and causing excess pressure within the turbo center, inturn pushing past the seal(s) and causing damage. Eventually causing a constant leak. Thanks, Aerron

Hey, Where are you located? thanks

Hey man, Do you still have the turbo for sale? If so, how many Ks are on it and Any shaft play at all??? Thanks

Hey everyone, Ok, I noticed about a fortnight ago on a cool afternoon on start up my Stag was puffing abit of Blue Smoke? When I reved it I got it to do smoke rings etc. Made me s**t my self Theorys; a, Rings (keep in mind shes only done 79,000km... I HOPE the Ks are true) b, Valve stem seals (Ive seen them wear out on Neos) c, Oil was cooked (Oil was only 3000km old) d, Turbo seal (wasnt constant so I didnt suspect this) So I went to work, 1st, Spoke to my mech, he said Rings are the LAST thing he would susspect as its low Ks, Not old, standard set up(No big turbo etc). 2nd, Added some Engine Treatment (Just makes the oil thicker) = Smoke went away. So I figured "cooked oil". 3rd, I changed the oil and filter (too eliminate the cooked oil idea). Here I am 1x week later. Blowing smoke again FML! Old Oil = No Rings = High Doubt Valve stem seals = GOD I HOPE NOT! Turbo seal = ? So I started to think... HARD! New theory; Possible Turbo Seal. Upon shut down it is possible it could be slowly leaking oil into the turbo's rear housing. So when I turn it on, it takes Approx. 1 Min to heat the oil and a further 1 min to start blowing smoke from the exhaust. When I rev it for a good minute the smoke clears to a faint mist. So say it dribbles like 1x drop every 3x hours. So it sits over night for say 9x hours. Thats approx. 3 drops of oil sitting in the Exhuast Housing. Explains why when I drive around I can smell burning oil, but cant see smoke as its a VERY slow leak. Plausble? So, my new plan of attack is; -Inspect turbo externally for Damp patch/leak. It is possible for the leak to show externally if seal has failed. -Allow car to sit over night for a good 12 + hours. To allow any chance of a leak to... leak. -Remove turbo + dump and inspect rear housing. Hopefuly find oil or something to point me in the right direction. I hope Im right, turbo swap is easy. Finding a decent Neo Turbo @ a decent price is the hard part Cheers, Aerron

I checked today, mine is a BM50 so I'll be sticking with this one Thanks

Thanks for that man. I also have a S2, so fingured crossed I have the same. Now to get my hands on some brakes .

Bump... make an offer

Hey man, Do you still have the Rear Brake Calipers?

Double post.

Im not 100% sure on other states but a (QLD)Department of Transport officer told me that 6000k is the maximum legal limit in QLD as 8000k is a blue shade. Ive previously had 6000k in another car and in my partners car. 1000x THUMBS UP! Compared to factory bulbs, the factory lights were like candles. On a stupid note, I have seen videos of 75,000k HIDs... Id imagine it would start melting stuff. :S

Hi Troops, Im finally going to complete my brake upgrade and plan on doing the rear brakes. Just need to Confirm; - That all R32 GTS-T,R33 GTS-T,R34 GTT Rear Calipers + Rotors are 100% the same? As I tracked some cheap R32 rears down. - Will I need to change the Master Cylinder, to accommodate the extra capacity of more pistons? Ive read a few people have, a few people havn't. Im considering not changing it if theres no real need to. Thanks, Aerron