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No reply here also. Please check PM.

Blank key received. Thanks!

I would like to buy one of these keys for my R33 S2 GTST off you if you have any left. I take it any key-cutter person be able to take on the job from there? Thanks.

Is there nistune available for S2 R33 for Perth people i.e. supply, install + tune?

What colour is the Series 2 car? Do you have working fold in side mirrors? Which kakimoto exhaust model is it, what condition and how much to post to Perth? Thanks.

I have had a very similar problem, I drive a '97 R33 GTS25t pod/3inch turbo back zorst. The problem occurred the day after I installed an Apexi SAFC2. After sitting on 90kpph for 5mins I started hearing clicking noises near the passenger seatbelt and then the HICAS lights came on. Car still drove normal, I stopped on the side of the road and the ticking noise continued and HICAS were still lit. Turned the car off waited 30sec and turned it back on the HICAS lights were off but the ticking noise still comes on intermittently (usually at high speeds). Since then there's an occasional ticking noise near the floor of the passenger's seatbelt but the HICAS light have not lit up since and it has been about 2weeks since the first incident. If anyone has any ideas please shed some light on us.

Let us know how you go mate cos I am looking to get the same job done at the same place and same car too. Cheers.

Wesley1, Do a search on "DIY clean AAC valve and reset idle" and there is a great post and massive reponses on how to go about it. All the best, Cheers.

I honestly recommend cleaning the AAC valve first before you take it anywhere for a paid service. I had idle problems also and after I cleaned my AFM, upped the idle, reset the ECU to no avail I cleaned the AAC valve and voila it runs shmick now!

Hi Steve, Do the pipe and cat come with gaskets and screws (obvious question but had to ask). Cheers.

Have you got a pic, how much for post to Perth - WA, and how many km's has it been used for if not new? Is the pipe easy to fit on yourself like a simple bolt on? Thanks.

Do you also happen to have a highflow cat and front/dump pipe that will fit the exhaust system as well?

Car: '97 Skyline R33 GTS25t Current setup: 3" (i think) Catback Tanabe exhaust system Looking to highflow the front half from the turbo back so chasing parts as stated in the topic for less than $450: 1 x Stainless 3" Bellmouth Front/Dump pipe (one piece) 1 x 3" highflow cat mild/stainless steel Am also wondering since I have zero mechanics background whether these parts are easy to fit yourself? What tools and steps do I take to remove the standard pipes and cat and replace them with these? Thanks.

My preferences in no particular order: Supra RZ twin turbo - sleek Evo 6 TM edition - beast Evo 9 MR - sleek beast XR5 turbo - pocket rocket!

Sorry to revive such an old thread but I am having a similar problem with my car where my speedo sticks and not only that it jumps up and then back down again sometimes. Did you end up fixing that problem without a digital speedo or cluster replacement etc.? I would be driving along doing obviously about 60kmph and the speedo would stay at zero and sometimes never come up for a good whole trip (15mins) and then sometimes it would pop up to working then pop back down to zero again. It's very temperamental.

Just curious where abouts did you start getting tailed by the copper so to avoid the area if possible haha.

I know it has been a while but I thought I would keep this updated. Short story: After 4 weeks or so after the AFM clean and ECU reset the car drove fine and never stalled but revs still dropped when clutching in/slowing down. Then last week it came back with a vengeance when my whole 15mins trip to Osborne park stalled at every stop (super embarrassing). So I decided to get my hands dirty and clean the AAC - with about an hour's worth of elbow grease - and it has worked a charm. The AAC was absolutely clogged up with black sh*t and with plenty of carby cleaner and cotton buds it is shining as new now. I can vow that the car runs A LOT better than when I first picked up the car. I think the AAC clean is a must do and will only do you good and no harm. Just two cents from my experience I had a lot of trouble pulling the hoses off from the AAC so I just unscrewed the unit out with my ratchet, left it in there and cleaned it while it was attached. Bit of an awkward position leaning over and in the engine bay but do-able still. Anyone with any hints on how to yank those hoses on the side and bottom off would be appreciated.

+1 on AAC clean

That switch you are talking about automatically turns off your headlights when you come to a stop. Apparently it is a courtesy thing in Japan for drivers to switch off their headlights when they come to a stop in traffic. May be fact or rumour but that is what I heard at least. I have a '97 R33 S2 and also have that switch near the cup holder and it does exactly that; when I have my headlights on and have the light reduce switch on it automatically turns my headlights off when I come to a stop.

I haven't had the chance to take out the AAC and clean it yet but I have taken apart and cleaned my AFM with the Nulon Carby cleaner, turned the AAC screw counterclockwise 1 turn and reset the ECU. So far it has not stalled yet but the revs still drop (to about 450rpm) when I clutch in. The problem seems to be more prominent when I have my headlights on or when I take a sudden stop.

Yeah let me know how it goes. I bought the Nulon Throttle Body & Carby Cleaner and will have a go at taking apart and cleaning the AAC. Will keep ya posted on how it goes. Merry Xmas btw. Cheers.

Just curious if cleaning your AAC helped the idle/stall problem as I am having the exact same problem with my newly purchased stock '97 R33 GTST (stock BOV, catback, pod filter). Cheers.