Galois

Look forward to hearing what you'll do next mate. Sorry to hear it, good luck if you take it further.

Hopefully not another vettel procession tomorrow.

GoHard, you have to stop driving your car. Think about it, it's blowing smoke, which could mean a leaky turbo on the way out or complete destruction of the engine is round the next corner. Does that really seem like the time to be boosting and revving? My advice is get on the NSW forum, search for mechanic and tuner and were you are (three different searches, if needed) until you have a few names of mechanics/tuners nearby. You definitely want someone who's worked on a lot of performance cars to save money, time and tears lol. Then drive it there carefully, explain when it's blowing smoke etc and see what they have to say. They'll have a look at the intake pipes for copious amounts of oil, the turbo itself for the same, and do a leakdown test on the engine (a leak down test is a "better" version of the compression test). This will tell them where the problems are likely to be. If all looks good it might be something else. You're hoping it's the turbo, so it's an easy replacement (~$300) or upgrade (buy anything from a highflowed turbo for 1k to a brand new brandname kit for 2-3k). If it's the engine it'll be a rebuild, and the mechanic will advise you on whether it's worth buying the parts and paying for labour or buying another engine. In summary, everytime the engine turns it might be doing serious damage. So dive it slowly and carefully, off boost and at low rpm, to an experienced mechanic and let them figure out what the problem is. I feel sorry for you mate, you've been pretty unlucky. But at least you know for next time you buy a car, a mechanical inspection including a compression test is a must, esp for performance cars. Let us know how you go.

Anyone know what's to happen to the f1 coverage then?

Kart is sold!!! So now it's a byo kart, complete karting kit lol Still selling all gear, more info on items. 2007 trailer with 12 months rego, Felk (brand), 6x4 ft, galvanised, done less than 1000km, spent it's entire life in garages, 2 spare tyres, including template and tarp for carrying items. $900 ono Still selling all racing gear except the boots (sold with kart), all gear has been used 15-20 times and is in new condition. PM me for details/more info! Cheers

Yep, the condition of the spark plugs can tell you a lot about how the engine is running. ie if they're a little covered in soot that's normal, if they look like they've been damaged by heat, or they're covered in a thick layer of unburned fuel (soot) then you're getting a warning before things go wrong. Splitfires are more widely used because they've been around longer than yellow jackets. It's probably true that there have been more problems with yellow jackets, but the people with yellow jacket problems just get sent a new coil/coils under warranty. If you want confirmation of who's using what making your power, just look at the dyno thread.

I liked the nulon in the old 34, but did think it was overpriced for a non-synthetic. For an extra $10 you could pick up 8100 xcess and change the oil later.

android has equivalent programs please please please tell me you pull hoons over, tell them your phone has a db meter, then ask if it's their lucky day hahaha

I think that was the point of the " " Though i'd love to see a youtube vid of someone taking a stock rb to 12k

Where are you getting xcess at $60?! I paid $65 for it once on sale, down $12. I never saw it for less than $75 in the usual places (supercheap, repco etc)

I was actually thinking about that when driving the f3 last night. There were some parts where the car (magna) was a little exciting at the speed limit, there aren't many places where 140 would be safe in it (140 because theres a smaller political party pushing for that speed). And this would be one of the better cars on the road, serviced regularly, abs, good tyres, suspension is good, has easily enough power to get up to speed etc... as opposed to some old hyundai crapbox maxing out at 105. Point is, in an above average car it'd be on the unsafe side, I sure wouldn't want to be on that road with everyone trying to push beyond their car's safe limits

I remember reading a while back that changing plates doesn't do anything, as it's just updated in the police system anyways. Is that the case? You'd want to get a damn good discount on the 32 to make it worth your while, assume you'll have to pay to have everything legalised, it will probably cost more than that lol

2013 they'll be bringing back the turbo days, but similar hp and 4 cylinders instead (unless various parties manage to change that now-plotted course for f1). Those old f1 cars used to push out 1500hp for qualifying laps, which is as long as the engine would last lol

That's what I'd do, though I'm not sure how ideal those octane boosters are, is there any issue with leaving them for a month? Might be worth syphoning the fuel and replacing it with 98

Ahhh, sorry, i thought you meant recently

That^. Tuner will hopefully be able to identify the issue during the tuning.

Those spikes may make the stock ecu crap itself, maybe lower boost or go aftermarket ecu?

It's a bad idea to stretch the budget to buy the car, I did it and I regret doing it. As soon as repairs and maintenance fees start building up you'll be going into the red. Eg clutch or coilpacks could go at any time, and you'll randomly have to fork out many hundreds. Just a warning, though you'll probably ignore it and if things go sour you'll be telling some p plater to be careful about stretching his budget in 18 months Hopefully not though. Oh and btw transmission is a waste of time and money. The cheapest option for any factory-to-factory conversion is to just sell and buy again, also helps with resale.

Another thought, look on the sau classifieds, the prices are sometimes a bit more than on car sales but you're probably getting a car maintained more carefully. Also, don't be afraid of mods, it's far worse to buy from someone who doesn't know a thing about the car and neglected it.

In short, with different cams you can make your big power higher in the rev range (at the sacrifice of lower rpm power). So racecars with a big redline obviously aren't using the same cams as an average street setup. You are right though, in theory power = torque *rpm, but in reality the engine is incredibly inefficient, and the cams are designed to give a power band at certain revs. The stock cams are not designed to cope with 12k rpm, they just couldn't get the fuel and air in.

That sucks mate, can you get it retuned there? How long do they think the 86 will be in for?

+1 for common misconceptions. You can do the regular servicing yourself, it's very easy (oil and spark plugs etc). But you can get ripped on labour if you take it to an inexperienced mechanic. But with all things get many quotes, and be prepared to travel a little if need be to find a good mechanic for a major service/upgrade. I know a few people who regularly travel from newcastle to sydney with their imports just to see trusted, experienced mechanics.

How much stuffing around is involved with ecu and loom and adapter plate (maybe?) etc? Is it worth it? Not sure what your aim is, but if you're not doing the work yourself you'll end up paying a lot of money which could be better spent on the rb25, getting far more gains. Also the rb26 parts are apparently more expensive, and the turbos make it more difficult to work around the engine bay. Would be a different setup though.

It's the dream isn't it, to find a classic and restore it and have that amazing story. Pity it'll probably end up as some hand-me-down for the kids

When did nissan drop the gtr? I read a drive.com article 3 days ago about nissan's new gtr and how they planned to bring out a new one every 12 months. bahahahahahahaha