Galois

I'd get a series 2 r33, a 40th anniversary r33 (I like the body kit and gtr wing), and did get an r34 gtt stock for around 15k. I don't regret it at all, but in retrospect there are stockish '94 r33 gtst's for 9k which would have done me just fine. I too love the r32 look, but its a 20 year old car. +1 Definitely get a manual. In traffic they can be a bit more of a pain but most of the time you don't notice it. But when you get a nice bit of road with no traffic, you sure will notice it and you'll love it. Everyone on here does haha. I love my r34, though being stock is actually a massive pain in the arse. Had to replace coilpacks and upgrade clutch as there's no replacement. There's no tinting and the exhaust is only catback. There's no boost controller or aftermarket ecu, and hasn't been tuned so there's a bit of a flat spot. But all in all, I'm learning fast and it been a good car. Turbos are actually really fun. You can feel it kicking in, and hear it spooling up. And if you really don't want the surge, set it to 7psi and enjoy the relatively smooth power (just changed mine from 14 to 7 psi, much less explosive, and I'm saving so much of my rear tyres!) r34 gtt has traction control, optional mechanical or viscous lsd, solid lifters rather than pneumatic, r33 gtr brakes (from memory), fits the r33 gtr clutch as well. The pull type clutch mechanism in the gtr's and r34 gtt is apparently better (?) and the r33 gtr clutch kit fits directly in. You'll pick up manual really quickly. It's not something to worry about, esp in cars which have so much feel and power to get you out of trouble. More power means harder to stall (for the same clutch). You'll pick it up in 20 mins with some good instructions (ie: don't watch rpm, just feel the car start to move forward as you let the clutch out, find the point where the clutch starts to pick up, and just be slow and smooth with your left foot. People always panic and drop the clutch and either stall or burn out.). And you'll be a master in no time, as soon as you've come across a bunch of tricky situations you'll be really confident. It's such a bonus having 6 years driving experience. Whenever I have to stamp on the brakes I hit the enormous brake pedal with my left foot, which was going for the clutch. Makes for some crazy times hahaha What's the difference? May as well hunt down what you want rather than waiting for people to make you an offer. In any case, if you really want just put a wtb post in the for sale section, plenty of people do it. Glad you're looking into skylines, they're good cars. Great for learning about cars and mods etc, and sau is a good community.

If it's running straight off the actuator then 5-6 is about right. As for set up, just after the compressor on the intake pipe heding to the intercooler a small hose goes to a t-piece. One hose goes from the t-piece to the top of the solenoid, the other goes to the actuator. Another hose goes from the bottom of the solenoid to the air feed line before the intercooler.

Damn, how is that possible?! I don't get that till 3k rpm in a gtt...

Me too lol. Be careful with exhausts, to get a power gain on an na you'll want something small, not a massive cannon. Those only hinder low down power. Ahh yeah, i remember that now. I see his name plastered all over the place now, I'd fprgotten the initial thread haha

Fair enough. Is it really that much harder on a gtr?

That is a very interesting result mate, thanks for posting it. I'm guessing he's gonna say really noisy, problematic lifters.

I personally would love to one day to the 3.0L conversion myself (talking years down the track here). But I just want to know how it all goes together. OP, see how n1gtr has >28000 posts, that tends to indicate a fair bit of knowledge. Another point: you can spend as much as you want on a car but an experienced, knowledgeable person can build a faster, more reliable engine/car for 10% the price.

Or just put the wrong plugs in. Glad it worked out mate, misfire absolutely suck!

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA Hey mate I kind of get where you're coming from, you had the evo which was a beast and don't want to take a step down. But that doesn't mean you should throw money at a giant step up either. With the amount of money you seem willing to throw at this you should have the fastest gtr in the country bar a very select few. How many killerwasps did the sti have btw? Sounds like a beast! Which model was it? The 3.0L rb26/30 is really really common compared to more exotic engine builds. I'd just be doing this with clever turbo choices and a good tune. Is there really that much of a difference between 3.0 and 3.15 in the real world?

Why? it's really easy to do compared to most performance cars. You should see my mates soarer, and I think the 300zx's are pretty hard too. I know it's a little tricky to get some good force down there to take it off but there are plenty of tools which attach to a ratchet to help with that. In terms of effort, it is certainly a lot easier than geting under the car to undo the sump plug. Also many aftermarket filters (drift, k&n) have a socket fitting which makes the job infinitely easier and saves a bit of knuckle scuffing. Just my thoughts, but there are so many upgrades which are worth spending the money on before something like that.

Haha cheers for the tag-in kong. I used castrol magnatec for 800km as I was doing a quick flush with "sh!tty" oil, but that one was a bit too sh!tty lol. If you ever want to feel a difference in how your car likes an oil, go magnatec for 500km then sougi (i actually went to nulon because I had some left over, still loved it tho). Non turbos take the same oils as turbos, but since the engine isn't worked as hard they can probably take oils that turbos can't. Stick to 10w40, fully synth or a good semi synth and you'll be fine. Remember, sougi m5000 is $30 for 5L, a grade III/V mix and has excellent detergents. It is fine for a turbo for 5000km and would be my choice for an na skyline, cheap + great + plenty of recommendation = simple choice.

evo 8 ve lambo murcielago That's the fq400 though, hotted up by british engineers. But, that said, it's a tried and tested template for upgrade that's actually sold somewhere in the world.

Ahh that's so freaking scary. Good that the engine didn't need a rebuild tho. It's really hard (for those of us that do not know everything) to know who to trust. The talented individual who built the motor or countless anonymous members of a forum. Agreed. It's well known that as the engine wears the viscosity of the oils go up to compensate. I'm also on the side of the majority rules: then so many sau people say an oil's good it's certainly worth trying.

So you don't think that the w50 may be fine in the summer months AND you don't think the turbo components are the more delicate and hence harder for a thicker oil to get to? Sorry, just want to make sure I get that right. I was just quoting, from memory, the response from earlier in this thread (at least I hope it was this thread, there are heaps of small oil threads). In summer road temps are between 10-20 degrees hotter, don't forget road temp varies from ambient temp because the sun directly heats the road, that heat dissipates into the air causing a higher temp immediately above the road. That's why motorsports quote track temps as well as ambient temps. That 20 degrees hotter makes a HUGE difference in the cooling rate of the radiator, which follows the simple equation q = k*A*(T2-T1), where q is the heat loss in W (or J/s), A is the area of exposure (in m2, an approximating function would be used to simulate the radiator area in contact with the moving air), T2 is radiator temp, T1 is road/ambient above road temp, and k is the complicated heat transfer coefficient, which is painfully calculated using equations taking conduction, convection and radiation into consideration. Seeing as T2 is what, 90-120oC, a change of ambient temp from 20-40 can lift the engine temp by quite a few degrees. I have always been meaning to look up the actual viscosities the w40, w50 etc correspond to, but since I haven't yet all I can say is that a w50 at 40oC may have the same viscosity as a w40 at 25oC. No. What I was referring to was only talking about skylines. Nismo recommend/use w50's for track cars. As above. Just for some reading, 23 Nov 2009, 12:46 PM Post #1171 Rank: RB30E Posts: 4,257 Joined: 29th April, 2009 Trader Rating : 0

Someone said a very similar thing like 20 pages ago and the response was that the engine can cope with w50 in hotter months but the worry is the more delicate parts of the turbo which won't be lubricated properly. +1!!! There certainly is a reason the vast majority of people use a w40. Nissan itself recommends 7.5w30 for the engine in colder Japan when the car is new, taking those two factors into account explains why 10w40 is so popular.

Higher viscosity (ie thicker) will be more resistant to a shear force, which means there will be more oil between metal parts in contact, as opposed to the oil being moved/pushed/drained away. If thicker doesn't correlate to better protection, why don'e we all use 0w0 oils?

It might be due to the fact that an na rb engine can cope well with w50 oils, but the tolerances in the turbo mean that we have to run w40 oils. If the turbo tolerances are larger, since the turbo is the restriction the oil can be thicker and provide the engine with better protection. Just a thought

car like this is better for p platers, have you tried carsales? there aren't many p platers on sau looking for cars, and those that are often do it by means of school holiday threads (then get raped by the more experienced users who are sick of stupid kiddy questions)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...Mo-t282082.html this has been posted all over the net, a pretty good starting place for mods.

pics mate?

k&n and drift filters also have a lot of fans on sau

ABS and airbags only have to save you once to be worth it. As I said above, the reason I want these is because my L plater gf will be driving the car most of the time, and she'll be doing long drives early on. Corolla would def be the way to go if I could find a cheap and safe one. There are heaps of 3L magnas around with abs and airbags for less than 3k.

Nankang ns2's, okay on front, terrible on back. I run 235/40/r18's and 265/35/r18's on the back and there is literally no rear end grip in the rain. Front is good though, even in the wet. Dry 7/10 Wet 3/10 Value 5/10 Won't get them again. Might grab some kumhos next.

bahahahahaha ... i'll probably watch that :$

check the for sale thread mate, there's usually injectors for sale as people upgrade them