Galois

Has anyone else noticed the way posts are displayed in a topic has changed from a user friendly list of posts including content to a contents at the bottom of the screen? Or have I just changed a setting somewhere? Cheers

Should I be replacing these too? (Along with the kudos kit and AC/PS/alt belts and fuel and air filters and cabin air filter and all fluids) Timing belt bearing stud and bolt kit 22.00 Seal Kit, Cam Cover 93.50 Bolt & Grommet Set, Cam Cover 55.00 Harmonic Balancer 339.90 The harmonic balancer seems pretty costly. Cheers

Ahh ok, cheers for clearing it up. The codes flash on a loop. It's really easy and you can reset the ecu afterwards which is good to do every now and then. Might just help your misfire problem too.

or try this for free http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...de-t266512.html

Hey mate, so you don't have a boost gauge in your cabin? I think, but am unsure, but isn't nistune only for r34s? Or am i all confused? I haven't really got into the aftermarket ecu stuff yet... To get coilpacks it'll be about $380 delivered express. And you can get bosch fr7dp's (6 for $44 at repco, check they have them in stock though), which are plat and gapped to 0.8 mm, saves damaging the platinum on the plug. Definitely un-ground the boost, it might be the easiest solution. I'd keep the fmic for a bit, just saves you the pain of removing it to find it wasn't the problem. Good luck

Should be fine mate, I think petrol stations would be in some deep sh!te if their petrol additives were incompatible with other companies additives... I do it all the time, whatever 98 RON is cheapest/available. Never noticed a problem.

I had similar: various mises up to 3k, then from 4k onwards missing on wot. 9:1 wow that's low. My car seems to run 14psi fine when the stock boost solenoid is plugged in (I unplugged it to save turbo, and im due for a clutch change so the extra boost is making it a nightmare), do you think it's had a tune or has an aftermarket ecu? Not really sure how to tell...

i have a stock clutch and at 13psi with foot down it slips, can't accelerate over 120km/h because of slippage and boost lol

http://www.motorsportworld.com.au/outlets/raceclutch/ Give JB a buzz if you're keen for a chat. He's a good guy, he'll sort you out.

omfg the new coilpacks make it so rev happy! I have disconnected the stock boost controller to bring it back to a safe 7psi, good for the slipping clutch and was good for the misfire. Reconnected it and man, rev happy + 13-14 psi was insane!!!!!! You were right when you said they make a massive difference mate! Now to get the clutch done. I want to connect the stock boost controller to a switch in the cabin (however the hell i do that), was thinking along the lines of one of those missile fire switches in jets mounted on the gearstick, subtly somehow hahaha. For now I have a switch and wire and need to find a hole in the firewall

Just paid 1.29 at my local caltex, cheapest its been there in a while.

That does sound weird. Let us know when you to some testing, it'll be interesting to see.

Definitely try un-grounding your boost solenoid and see how it goes, if it doesn't fix it try disconnecting the boost solenoid electrical wire. Coilpacks for you will be like $380 delivered from performance wise. These are the yellow jackets. Unlike the splitfires, they come with a 2 year warranty and they're pretty good with it. They sent birds a new coilpack before he sent them the bad one a week ago. To get nissan ones will be like ~$190 each. If you have the stock coilpacks you are literally waiting round for them to go wrong, not many people are running the original ones. But if they're working may as well keep them. All this about coilpacks and spark and boost would be more meaningful if it was a problem at higher rpm, having the same problem at low rpm sounds weird. Does the car vibrate? One of the spark plugs may not be firing at all for some reason...

Wouldn't the losses change depending on the power put through?

Can't imagine it being your fmic mate, not if its not leaking. Try un-grounding your boost actuator and see what that does? It is possible the extra boost is sending you into safety or r&r mode or something. Coilpacks make a big difference apparently. Mine are waiting for me at home atm! Lol, finally to be rid of the misfiring and 5 cylinder running. What I've done recently is disconnect the electrical wire to the boost solenoid, which gives me the 7psi actuator boost. What boost are you running? Maybe give this a go too and see if it makes your car more drivable? Also, I read a bit into safc a while ago, I suggest you heavily look into it to make sure you buy the right aftermarket computer gear fro both now and future mods. I seem to remember safc has its limits...

It has to lose a slight bit of heat transfer efficiency as you're adding a layer of non-conductive paint to the metal. That said, the paint isn't thick and the hot air post-compressor is very hot compared to ambient air, which means the heat transfer rate will be plenty high. The fmic just needs to cool the air down because the compressor gets so hot, it doesn't need to be exactly ambient. damn, that looks really good, nice work

Hey kong, haven't seen you in these parts for a while lol. Good poll. I use whatever I can get, seems okay for a stockish skyline with stock tune. Need an option for that though...

You can get globes from any auto store, 2 for like $30. They're halogen though, even though it may have xenon written on them. Not sure what the problem is mate, my right one just doesn't turn on sometimes and I have to restart the car...

Why will it be more efficient? I would have thought the more power you're producing at the fly, the more you're going to lose through the transmission and diff, in terms of efficiency as a percentage? I was always told you lose 25% between flywheel and the rubber, but that said hypergear's done a lot of this stuff. Isn't there a way of measuring the power at the fly by determining the friction/resistance/losses through the box and diff? I swear I read about James May explaining it once...

I was gonna leave this thread as is, but then figured some poor guy might read it and take ift for gospel and waste as much time as I have. Okay mate, after reading your post I was pretty concerned because it disagreed with all the opinions I had got so far on what to do, but after calling several mechanics and clutch salesmen I have got some details confirmed: The r33 gtr has a push type pressure plate, and the clutch is 250mm. It is a direct substitute for the r34 clutch assembly and cheaper, one of the few times cheaper will be better. Better here being heavy duty, as the r33 gtr pressure plate has 2600 lb of force, ~50% more than stock. For the OP: HD means higher clamp force and an organic plate, it's not a different type of clutch, just a stronger clamp. Also, apparently every clutch installation requires the pedal engagement point to be altered. Further, this should be adjusted every 10 000km to ensure it's fairly consistent. No=one does this though as they don't notice it. But as the clutch wears, the pressure plate moves further and the clutch pedal has to be moved further/lesser to move the pressure plate the right amount. It is apparently shit easy to do for the mechanics, as they do it all the time. Really, "tends"? As in, it'll do that preferentially over not exploding? I know forums are places of exaggeration and hyperbole but there are forum rules about discrediting companies. Come on mate, no need to be overly harsh. You're referring to instances without acknowledging all the details. I'd imagine Jim's info on the incident is quite different to yours? His side of the story is too, but he isn't on here to slam you for trying to defame him. I'm not siding one way or the other, but please post what you know to be truthful info. I didn't need to waste my time looking into your comments before deciding whom to buy a clutch from (I still don't know, but could have used that time figuring it out rather than validating or otherwise your claims) I said seco clutch plate, not pressure plate. Apparently the seco ones are a very similar structure however compressed more equally, ie: less poorly made ones. I however can't confirm this because I have not unwrapped any clutch plates yet, so I/we have to trust those who have. My mechanic laughed when I asked him how hard this is to do, they do it all the time, on every clutch change. Mate I'm not trying to discredit you, but I really hate having my time wasted and flaming people on forums when they're not here to defend themselves doesn't look great. Cheers for your help

I'm thinking of connecting the stock boost controller solenoid to a switch in the car, switch off gives 7psi, switch on gives >13psi. It might serve as a duel stage boost controller till install a real one. Also, there is certainly less of a whooshing noise from the turbo/solenoid which may have been from the boost, or from the solenoid bleed. Just a thought.

You'll also need: Cabin air filter (Contact nissan) Power steering belt (Contact nissan) Alternator belt (Contact nissan) Aircon belt (Contact nissan) Fuel filter (Nissan or aftermarket) Gearbox oil change (Castrol vmx-m or vmx80 are apparently good, or penrite sin 75w90 + nulon g70 additive) Diff oil change (Pentire limslip 90 + nulon g70 additive) Probably clutch change, might be worth an upgrade to a HD. (Depending on power. I'm probably going with an exedy HD clutch kit with r33 gtr pressure plate, organic clutch plate, exedy bearings and a seal kit) And it you're doing a normal service Oil (10w40 full or semi-synth, depending on mods and pricing. I use Sougi s6000. Motul 8100 is also great for the price.) Oil Filter (k&n is pretty cheap and a good filter, drift is also a great brand) Air filter (lol ryco/nissan etc. Unless you want to upgrade to a k&n panel filter to aid you're engines airflow, ~$100 i think. Haven't bothered yet) And if you haven't done it before, change Power steering fluid (Mechanic will know what to use) Brake fluid (Mechanic will know what to use) Clutch fluid (Hopefully done with the clutch) Coolant (Will be done with the water pump) Get the mechanic to inspect the brake pads too. I'll post anything else I can think of. I'm just going to buy all the gear and get my local mechanic to do the major service parts, the oils, spark plugs, and filters are all easy to do (not sure where the cabin air filter is). Do what you can yourself to save a lot of money on labour. The oil+filter is easy, box+diff oils are easy, plugs can take a while the first time but pretty easy. Just search the diy thread.

Is the 100k service difficult/tricky or will my local mechanic be fine with it? He's a good mechanic but wouldn't see many skylines...

+1. If it goes away after a few seconds then it's just the normal oil transport process. Why is that? 10w only refers to the warm up viscosity, so 10w40 and 5w40 will have the same viscosity when warm, but w30 and w40 won't. The w30 should have less pressure as it moved through the filter easier, or is that an over-generalisation.

That's high for such low boost, it seems ppl in the dyno thread need much higher boost to make that... I'm gonne get me a turbo back, this cat back is annoying lol.