Galois

argh I hate asking such newbie questions: where exactly is the timing belt cover? :$

Hey guys, I've giving up trying to figure it out and searching because most people seem to know. I bought my car with 109k kms on the clock, but I have no idea what the numskull (censored) ex-owner did to it. I know he put 3 different brans of tyre on the car all at once and he had all the tyre pressures at 26psi, he had never done an oil change and relied on his mechanic to service it without questioning the products he used, he had no idea how much power had stock, or how much boost it was meant to run, or that the snorkel was missing, or that the brake rotors were scratched, or that it had a viscous lsd... Sorry, I'll stop now. So how do I confirm he did the 100k km service knowing he'd been trying to sell the gtt for many months before I bought it? Should I just to the service anyway rather then finding out it hadn't been done when the timing belt goes? The clutch is failing now at ~130k km, so thats not a good sign. Then again the guy was an old man and drove like one. Thanks for the advice.

I'm doing this this week, can't freaking wait! You're 100% right there, there newer coilpacks can generate the required voltage quicker and reliably which ceases misfiring at high rpm and general stuff ups like only firing on 5 cylinders. Glad you had success mate. My car's pretty much stock but I can't wait to run a bigger gap and stop the missing.

It'll be fine mate, i liked 8100 when I used it, noticably better than the nulon I had before it (though that was semi-synth, despite what the packet says). 5w and 10w refer to the cold viscosity of the oil, the higher the number, the thicker the oil. The important thing to remember is that from start up they're both converging in viscosity to become a w40, so they're getting closer and closer. Another thing is companies don't publish 7w or 9w, they round off, so 5 and 10 can be pretty damn close. The lighter an oil is, the quicker it moves through the pump and filter to protect the lifters and valves. The thicker the oil is, the longer it takes to get there but once it's there it provides better protection. It's a trade off, like all things are. And it doesn't really matter, because 5w and 10w are so close anyways. Enjoy the feeling of a happy engine

Yeah, but they don't come with abs and airbags, not much really does below 5k, apart from magnas lol. Seeing as my partner will drive it most and she's not yet on her red p's i want her in a safe car. Abs has helped me out quite a few times over the years.

I have a mate making 160rwkw in an NA supra, and all he's done is epic exhaust work, extractors, massive intake piping, tune? Can't remember, but he hasn't touched the engine. That's the sort of power stock plus cat-back r34 gtt's make. Predictable, unlike my r34 viscous lsd! Fk I swear it chooses to do the least useful thing possible. I dumped the clutch to do a 180 spin in an empty carpark at uni after giving my lil bro manual lesson (he's on his P's so can't drive on the road, figured a few minutes in an empty carpark couldn't hurt), anyways all that happened was the inside wheel lit up, biggest anti-climax ever. But the viscous lsd works just fine in the rain, trying as hard as it can to make me spin out. It's got a bit more give than a normal lsd, but fk I wish it was more predictable. And with the police: most of them have no idea what they're looking for anyways, to identify an lsd by it's sound would be impressive, and unlucky...

On the magna front, looking at test driving some this week. Is the auto in the magnas ok? There aren't exactly heaps of manuals around. I do want to test drive both though, but any advice is always good

kjb_r33 i just quoted your explanation in the spark plugs thread, thought it should be in there... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...68#entry5442268

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ru....html&st=20

When the air and petrol are injected into the cylinder there is heaps of turbulence. When the spark ignites at the top of the cylinder, it creates a small flame from the petrol burning. This flame spreads and becomes the explosion. This of course all happens in an instant. But the initial flame front will be larger for the larger gap spark plug, which leads to quicker spread and better (more intense) explosion. That's why you always run the biggest gap possible. The problem is failing coilpacks generate less power and extra boost causes high turbulence and pressure which makes it difficult to get a spark across the gap. There's a really good explanation on here somewhere, I'll try to find it and post it up...

wreckers? have you called nissan parts?

Try 1.1 mate, then if it misfires at full boost and high rpm go to 0.8. It's a bit of trial and error, but with splitfires you should be fine with 1.1 at normal-ish boost. Bigger gap is better for the flame front spread remember, so go bigger first.

On the pressure side, figured it might be worth pointing out that every different filter is going to have a different time for oil pressure to build up because they all have different structures. You get the for $12?! I got charged $18 last time Advantages come from surface area and pressure/flowrate. With a bigger filter and the same internal surface area can support a higher flowrate for the same pump work. Lower pressure doesn't always mean a bad thing (within reason), it may mean the oil is flowing more quickly to important parts of the engine... Z442 mate. Lets be honest, the nut is by far the most important thing, saves so much knuckle scuffing. Oil going black isn't necessarily the oil breaking down, it's also the important cleaning action of the oil working, cleaning the crap outta the engine. Detergent heavy engines become black very quickly. Just a thought. The oils thread seems to think that the nissan/ryco/repco filters are inferior to the specific brand name ones. Last time I was at autobarn they guy told me the k&n filters were like $22, same as i've paid for ryco ones.

Could use cheap sougi m5000? ~$30 for 5L. Others will have more advice on the 6-months-without-use side

Ok, well i just realised that my piping setup may differ from other peoples, so here's what mine does: Just after the compressor on the intake pipe heating to the intercooler a small hose goes to a t-piece. One hose goes from the t-piece to the top of the solenoid, the other goes to the actuator. Another hose goes from the bottom of the solenoid to the air feed line before the intercooler. I hope that is right. 14.7psi ~ 1bar, I would think a turbocharger would run much higher than that with no actuator right? Blocking off that pipe had the exact same effect as disconnecting the solenoid. I'm guessing the solenoid has been grounded, as when the solenoid is connected to the network it runs >7psi at 3000rpm, whereas when it's disconnected it runs 7 constantly. It is really interesting to drive the car like that: my faulty coilpacks and dying clutch love it haha. And full throttle in firse gear doesn't spin the rear tyres, much better for when other people drive it lol. The only thing I can think of is a faulty/modified solenoid, is there any way of investigating this? I can only imagine it would take some effort and thinking to do. I guess if you're really keen to pass inspections it's easy free boost. Has anyone ever modified in this way? Thanks for the help Maddowse mate, give it a go, see what happens...

Blocking off that pipe gave me 7psi rather than 13-14, so either the guy who did it was successful or it was stuffing up. I'm assuming the pressure gauge doesn't need a new calibration. ps: I say 13-14 psi because it seems to change every now and then. But the understood maximum safe boost is supposedly 12psi for and r34 turbo...

Fantastic mate, glad to hear it! Will Performance Wise let you know what the problem was? It'd be interesting to know.

When I got a quote from my Sougi guy it was $30 + gst. But s6000 for $45, stock up!!!

Wait!!!! Hope you haven't already bought a new actuator mate, because I've made a discovery! I had a mate of mine who is an absolute car nut have a look at it after 6 months of trying to find the cause of the increased boost. I explained to him there is an effective boost controller that came stock changing from 5-7psi at 4500rpm. He followed the piping for 2 minutes and said: "disconnect this pipe, block it off and see what happens" referring to the top pipe on the cylindrical boost controller solenoid me-gig. And I did. And I had 7psi. So, as I figure it, the solenoid has been tampered with to bleed off until 13-14psi. Or, it's bleeding off at a slow enough rate that the psi gets to 13-14 before the air flowrate overcomes the compression. But I doubt this because I don't think it's work, why could it bleed happily at 5 but then struggle at 14. Then again, maybe that's exactly how it works... I'm guessing it's possible to modify the ecu control of the boost controller... Hope it helps mate, give it a try, I actually prefer mine with the lower boost. If feels happier, less insane, more speed limit friendly, and still leaves enough cars for dead. Will prob get a boost controller some time in the future and set it up with a nice safe 10psi mode for the fun times.

There are people around who will inspect the fmic fitment and sign off on it's safety. As for the pod, should be pretty easy to take off and replace, the airbox fittings are all still there. It depends on how the piping has been changed. There is no performance gain, only performance loss, since sucking in cold air means sucking in less oxygen than the equivalent volume of cold air. Less oxygen leads to poorer combustion, which leads to less power. More importantly the hot air can promote pinging which will damage your engine.

If you're worried about crap building up and are thinking of doing a flush it's worth trying a few quick oil changes first. Whatever oil you use will be better than the nissan stuff, because they have to rely on people buying them for their value rather than the nissan name AND more importantly a 10w40 tends to be a better weight for this climate/cars of our age. The 8100 will surely flush the engine fine, it just costs a lot more than the sougis. Btw sorry mate, only answered one of your questions above, meant to look over it but forgot. 120k kms is usual for skylines, that and the hotter climate are why generally the 10w40 is better (I say usually because there are a wide variety of exceptions, but 10w40 seems to have the majority, I sure am happy with it). Also filters, don't bother with nissan, ryco or repco, buy the k&n ones for the same sorta price. Last time I bought my drift filters (picked up 3) they were $20 each, I think they were on sale though. k&n and drift are renowned for being higher quality than the cheaper alternatives, even though the k&n ones are pretty much the same price as ryco/repco/nissan. But with filters, the most important thing of all by so far, is that they have the spanner fiting on the end to get the damn things off haha, k&n and drift have these, has kept so much skin on my knuckles!

Still new to this mate, just quoting. Is the cover the pressure plate? If so, how does it need to be modified? And how should it feel? My clutch at the moment picks up like 8cm above the carpet, when should it pick up? How can we know the clutch size has been modified? And modified properly? Cheers for the info

Hey mate, the sougi m5000 is a really good oil. It is ~$30 for 5L and will happily take you 5000km (tested by Birds on his own car). It's similar to sougi s6000 in terms of additives and detergents, and a mix of mineral (grade III) and double-ester (grade V) oils. Motul 8100 is grade IV, which means it is fully synthetic. Sougi s6000 and 300v are grade V, which copes with heat, pressure and shear stress much better. 8100 usually costs round $75 (+-5) for 5L, 300v $105 for 4L, Sougi s6000 $60 for 5L. So the sougi is the same grade as 300v (which is superior to 3100) for half the price. It has been discontinued though, so grab up what you can! After I've used my Sougi up I'll probably go to 8100, can't justify buying 300v for street use. That's assuming there is no sougi replacement by then

awww beautiful skyline there mate, very nice

Hey mate, I asked that exact question myself: the viscous part of a viscous lsd is sealed, the oil is for the outer part. Pretty sure you'll find what you need in here. I think Penrite sin limslip 90 was the winner, with some nulon g90 additive. Can't remember though... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...ts-t205993.html