Galois

bahahahahahaha i thought that too!

Use a flush only if you must mate. people on here tend to agree that the carbon deposits from decomposing oil actually help to smoothen the cylinder linings. It's exactly the same mechanism that polish uses: the polish fills in microscopic cracks making the car feel smooth (there's also an element of smoothening the flat bit between the cracks, but if you look at a small enough level all surfaces are made of cracks...). An oil flush will remove these deposits. What is what was recommended to me a million pages ago lol, just change oil really regularly. If I was doing it again I'd buy 4x5L sougi m5000 (the grade 3/5 mix) for $30 a pop and replace the first one after 500km, 2nd 1000, 3rd 2000 and the 4th is good for 5000, then move onto whatever oil you want. But that's just me... Yeah Birds really knows his oils lol On the oil blackening part, oils blacken because of wear and tear, but also because there is oil left from the last cycle, and most importantly because some oils clean your engine for you. I will look into UOA's one day, but don't imagine I'd be using them for very long. How often do you do them? eg: every 1000km, not sure how much they cost but I drive that almost every fortnight. If you choose an interval then it either has to be small and expensive or large and hopeful that the oil doesn't change rapidly over one graduation. I'm going to repeat what Birds said and I've said it before many times in this thread: if you want to post experimental results, then do proper experimental work with proper scientific methods. Any contamination has to be taken seriously and there's plenty of the dirty old oil left after a change. Further, and more importantly, you want the system to remain at steady state (not changing), which means it'll take several changes to properly and conclusively evaluate an oil. Anyways, Birds you heard anything about the "cheap but good" Sougi replacement?

ordered ordered ordered ordered ordered... excited lol have you put the new coil in?

The most important question for the OP is what type of driving do you do? Want to run very quick quarter miles, go a button clutch. If you want a nice driveable daily for light mods, go an organic. Heavy duty refers to the clamping force of the pressure plate. You're running a pull clutch, as opposed to the push type clutch used in the gtst's. So for a daily drive what you'll want is an r33 gtr pressure plate (which is what exedy will give you) and an organic plate, apparently the Seco ones are better than the exedy ones for the same sorta price, don't really know how to confirm it. If you want to run massively quick quarters or a track car get a button clutch, which will have either an aftermarket or altered r33 gtr pressure plate. It'll be heavier for normal driving but give you awesome clamping force, probably. Exceptions exist, eg: some people say you can't run under 10s with a single plate clutch, but Jim Berry super full montys have done that many times. I'm due for a new clutch as well. I drive only on street and it's my daily car, and I drive a whole lotta kms, so an easy clutch is what I want. I'm getting an r33 gtr pressure plate from exedy (exedy is the replacement for nissan clutchwise, they're actually the same other than the branding) and deciding between exedy and seco clutch plates. Either give Jim Berry a buzz or Andrew Sullivan from Kudos. Both know insane amounts, I have no idea which to buy from...

Yeah not a great video, but might help someone with visualising the are effects over the car. The underbody is the most important part, very few new supercars have a wing because the underbody of the car is so highly developed for working air. The ground effects cars in f1 pulled the highest g forces ever and were banned due to dangerously high cornering speeds. Current f1 cars have a rear diffuser built into part of the safety arrangement which caused many teams to be upset when the design was introduced last season. Not really adding anything onto to what you said mate, just some examples. Why the interest in the drag coefficient? It doesn't mean much except at top speed?

hahaha i know the feeling!!! you see someone else in a done up skyline and feel judged! couldnt get on to performance wise today, not for lack of trying, will try again tomorrow

I'm sure you didn't mean to imply that you're the only one on sau who think UOA's are worth doing, they have their value as do other methods of determining an oil quality. if you want proof, put some shitty oil in your car without any UOA analysis and see how long it takes you to notice your engine sounds different or doesn't like to rev. As has been said many, many times on this thread, UOA's have their value, but using other peoples UOA values may not be conclusively useful. Further, UOA's tell you how the oil is behaving, but if the oil is cleaning out crap left from the last oil or result of a poor filter it may alter the result. I look forward to when I do UOA's, analysing the chemical breakdown of oils is something really in my line of work, it's good fun. Can you post your 8100 vs 300v results? It'd be good to see them. I haven't seen anyone do anything like that. there's plenty of conflicting views though, some people swear by the expensive oils, some are happy with good semi-synths. unfortunately there's no one-oil-to-suit-all, hence the trial and error process

ahhhh, ok, so misfiring isn't a generic term for firing problems... yeah mine was doing that, it's the worst feeling in the world, and a bit embarassing, though most people think that sound is intentional. Sucks being down to like 40% power

skyline wind tunnel: http://il.youtube.com/watch?v=V6ewoDeUo5U&...feature=related the turbulence at the back is present on all cars to a degree, it can perform one of two actions: 1. It can create a buffer for air to flow over, much like it does on a ute with the tail up (reference: mythbusters haha) 2. It can create a point of lower pressure, pulling the car back. Not much, but just a thought

As mentioned freeway speeds just wont be enough to notice the affect of Cd alone. Drag, however, also includes the skin friction and the means by which the air leaves the car (also mentioned before). There's a topic somewhere on sau comparing fuel usage which has testimates from people who have experimented with tyre width, apparently it makes a HUGE difference to fuel economy, and hence overall drag on the car. I find with the gtt that downhill on the freeway I still need throttle when everyone else is braking, that's because of the gear ratio's as well, 3200 rpm at 120km/h, massive engine braking. Cd is a method of oversimplifying a shape, it's not greatly useful in normal applications, esp on 20 year old cars.

fantastic description kjb r33, thanks, i had wondered how it worked on an atomic level and you confirmed a few thoughts id had. cheers literally half the time mate, and it's my daily . has been raping my fuel economy haha. ecstatic about getting new coil packs! imagine driving without fear!! my conditions are similar, the car doesn't misfire once warm, and i dont mean oil is warm, i mean really warm. I feel it is the coilpacks, they probably take some time longer than the engine to reach equilibrium temperature. If I leave the car for 8 hours after a drive it'll missfire, and does every day on the way to uni (30 mins). but if i drive for say an hour it figures itself out. It also only starts to misfire when i back off throttle, or at idle. and once it starts, the tcs, slip and engine lights turn on and the misfiring continues for several minutes at least, before eventually recovering. It's a game I won't miss playing... just hope I haven't done any damage, it's been like this for months :|

just ordering mine now birds, 6th cylinder here we come!!!

i have a mate with a ford ranger, 2.5L 4 pot turbo diesel. when he took me for a spin in it the turbo was spooling up as we slowly reversed across the flat grass in his front yard lol. Those things spool up so quickly, that's the purpose as diesels don't like to rev

Just ordered 4 bottles of sougi s6000 from the dealer-man near here, costing less than 260 (ie less than 65/bottle and it's comparable to 300v). Anyways, he said gulf western is planning on making a new product of similar quality for a better price, so the days of sougi may be ending, but the days of gulf western providing good oil for cheap may not have...

agreed. you really, really don't want to make your daily drive a pain in the ass an btw, for stock turbo on an r34 gtt 14psi is dangerous for the ceramic turbine, and beyond the efficient range of power provided by the turbo. 12psi is agreed on as the maximum safe boost.

in nsw, as said above, you have to get the fmic engineered, and if mr plod sees a pod he'll be unhappy

bmw has said for years that turbochargers are the way of the future. for all applications where the extra force required to pump the air through the turbine is less than what is required for the supercharger, the turbo will be more efficient at generating power (fuel wise at least). the mercedes mclaren slr needs 120 hp to power its supercharger!!! thats more than my lil bros camry makes hahaha on the racing front, remember the most powerful f1 engines ever were the 1.5L turbo ones, producing 1500hp!!! pretty epic huh

after calling countless places to try and find a clutch for my r34 gtt, a quick call to jim solved all my problems. upgrading to an r33 gtr pressure plate and an aftermarket organic clutch plate, done and sorted, thanks jim. ... now just have to save up ~$800 + labour and flywheel machining

Hey mate, First thing: it's not fully synthetic. Unless you're going for a really high quality part synthetic, just go for group IV or V (ie: fully synthetic oils). It's also usable for diesel as well as petrol, which might make it very versatile, maybe too versatile for a performance engine? I'm guessing it's pretty cheap? Otherwise not really worth it. I couldn't find it its a group IV or V mix, group V is the better...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...ks-t192015.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ug-t122284.html note: not all spark plugs have the same sized spark plug socket fitting, learnt that the hard way

its a really easy job to do urself mate, doesn't take long and there are plenty of instructions on the sau diy, probably save you a few hundred...

ps: oil filters: drift and k&n are really good, repco and ryco are not, nissan is average. go k&n, they're pretty cheap and really good filters, and most importantly have a spanner fitting for easy removal

hey dude, have a look through these: oil thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...ils-t22458.html transmission + diff thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...ts-t205993.html Spark plugs thread (often spark plugs need to be changed regularly) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...0&start=300 Summary, oil: use a good quality fully synthetic 10w40, such as sougi s6000 (discontinued but some bottles are still floating around), motul 300v, motul 8100 xcess, royal purple, redline. transmission + diff: the penrite sin stuff is good, limslip 90 for the diff, and the sin 78w85 for gearbox i think, whatevers on the last page. im putting castrol vmx-m with a bottle of nulon g90 split between the two. spark plugs: bosch fr7dp are cheap and decent platinums, ngk bcpr6es or bkr6es are pretty good coppers. either way, heaps of people change the plugs every 5000km with oil to just keep track of them, plenty of horror stories on sau about million $$ iridiums lasting 3000km

+1 if the pod is just sucking hot air from the engine bay it won't help or give you more power, it can only hurt. u can either buy a pod and then spend money and time buying/making/finding a heat shield, or just put a good panel filter in, which will also make the stock bov a bit louder

just wondering on the money saving side, is it hard to install an alternator yourself?