Galois

yep, plugs or coilpacks on the way out. start with plugs, much cheaper...

Got mine at repco as well, just give them a call and ask what they have in stock? They'll surely be able to order some in as well.

bosch plats gapped at 0.8 are like $5 more than the 1.1's, well worth the dollars cos u dont have to risk damaging them

it is a damn good price for it mate, the only place ive found near me sells it for $80 for 5L

my bad, 6 is a colder plug, ie: it deals with hotter combustion temps

let us know mate, im looking at getting some yellow jackets because of the warranty very soon

how much do you reckon we'd save on a group buy? i'd be keen if the price is okay

motul 8100 excess will be about $75 for 5L. sougi is the best value for money but no longer being made.

fixed

i got those same errors once when i forgot to plug in a couple of plugs near the throttle body, very embarrassing haha

go bcpr6es-11's cos it's stock boost. 6 is a hotter plug, 5 is recommended. have a read of earlier pages in this thread, plenty of answers there

ahh, that's probably what gets the most attention on my r34 gtt lol, the police in the back of the van playing cat&mouse overtaking with me this afternoon on a highway couldn't take their eyes off it haha

hahaha agreed, they were looking at the cannon

i had been wondering about that too, as in pressure gauges in each tyre? at leas you'd be quickly aware of a flat...

dude you could really just read the oils thread you commented in this morning. ill be nice and answer anyways ebay: from a shop on ebay or from some random person? personally, i wouldnt. what are you using your car for anyways? is it stockish or highly modified? who sells it? everyone, literally, autobarn, peps, repco, supercheap, and anything else claiming to be the be-all-and-end-all of motoring knowledge but actually secretly specialise in falcodores, camrys and kingswoods buy either a k&n or drift oil filter, both really good, so much better than the standard nissan and ryco ones. but if you haven't before, might be worth getting a new sump plug washer? if you have an r33 or r32 you can buy a cheap (~$75) aftermarket o2 sensor, r34's need the nissan one which is $200+. they last about 60 000km and a fresh one might help your highway fuel consumption, that's all. 10w45 is generally accepted to be slightly heavy for the rb engines, though that said w40 is ideal for most people so not far off... fully synthetic means jack all, i'd call/email and ask if it is group 3, 4 or 5. every answer to your questions are in the oils thread. there is also a search function with could help with the o2 sensor question, or you could just look in the o2 sensor thread.

best possible oil is probably the redline for hundreds of $$$, fully synthetic, group 5 and used by a lot of people for track cars. can't remember the others but im sure you'll find them if you look back through the pages. the thing is, if you're not running to the redline on a track for dozens of laps you don't need to spend that money on the oil. for a stockish steet car you can get away with a really good semi-synth, but i prefer group 4 or 5's, 8100 xcess, 300v or royal purple, all good stuff. just be warned nulon "fully synthetic" is a lie, and magnatec is shite

before this thread gets out of hand with people asking what pressure they have for their tyre size (including myself!) how much does a couple of psi matter? ok, so if we imagine the pressure is meant to be 40psi, for ease of numbers, and it runs at 38 psi. that's a difference of 5%, which would make fk all difference compared to other parameters, like temp, speed, cornering and driving style and more importantly, how much does it vary between companies? because i'd imagine each company builds to it's own spec, which might vary by a few psi anyways as a side note, my r34 was bought and after some dramatic events i checked the tyre pressure, it was 26psi, it was after that my worries about the prior owner began...

why did nissan decide to change the type of clutch in the r34? I've been looking around but to be honest I don't know many clutch brands, only been looking at giken, exedy and xtreme, still looking around, but the exedy prices are huge!

Hey guys, There's an awful lot of good threads on which clutch is the best for your million hp gtr, or which will last longest, but I haven't found anything on what's a good, cheap replacement for the standard clutch. I have had a bit of time off work for my final year project so the dollars are tight, and my clutch is slipping . I've read all about jim berry's clutches and it sounds like the way to go (even if the gearbox and diff shattering reputation is a little scary). I have an r34 gtt with a cat back and 13psi boost (lowing that is another project). So are there any cheap after market clutches which are like stock and worth looking at? Exedy, for example, want almost $1000 for a stock replacement *dies* Thanks all, appreciate it.

hey all, just wondering if anyone has an r34 gtt actuator pic? i have attached mine but I'm not sure if it's stock or not. I hooked it up to a compressor at work but I'm not sure how to interpret the results, I'm guessing with wastegate pressure and other driving conditions the required opening pressure would be different. The gauge moved a little at about 8psi but wasn't fully open till 14psi. That was with no resistance though. Thanks for the help

i do, thanks mate, i'm still on the steep side of the learning curve lol

ahh ok, what do the 35 and 40 refer to then? and even more for a track day or drags, or on a hot day or cold, or day and night. it'd hard to allow for all conditions tho. back in my karting days we ran roughly 13 psi, but we'd adjust it till there was a 2 psi difference between hot and cold to find the ideal setup for the day

yeah, not an oil thread, sorry for the diversion... skit, are you using the stock pressure gauge? people reckon they're pretty unreliable. that said, I do watch the pressure, tends to let me know if anything's wrong, when it's ok to give the car a squirt etc... but for less satisfied people, many of which are in the oils thread posted below, the w50 was a mistake. someone said quite a while ago that it didn't provide adequate lubrication for the turbo at temperature. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...&start=1640 anyways, oils seem to vary HEAPS for different cars, which is no surprise seeing as many of them have done over 100k kms plus whatever was taken off when they came over

i got under the car the other day but couldn't feel the end of the pivot bolt for the clutch fork. is there any trick to it? had my finger in a good 8cm but no luck...

hey mate, i have nankang ns2's on my r34 gtt, on the rear i have 265/35/r18's on 10" rims which i was told by the shop (tyrepower newcastle) should be at 40psi, on the front i have 235/40/r18's on 9" rims which apparently are supposed to be at 38psi. i'm guessing the difference in pressure has something to do with the differing height, not sure, but the pressures have suited me okay. the back is a handful in the rain though