Galois

hey mate, did your bolts get damaged with your efforts? Mine are fkd from mine, have to find another way to unto them...

apparently mate, it's one of those things we're all meant to know lol. its mentioned here and there in the oils thread. i think it's because the engine is pushed hard and gets hot, so its treated a bit like a drag or circuit day

at the least it means they're not working. is the engine malfunction light on?

hiya all, so after learning what a carbon canister is, the control valve dropped way down on my list as it is expensive and non-crucial. should I seal off the lines with a bit of high-temp silicon or something?

r&r would be very noticeable mate, it will run like shit and be very unpleasant. O2 sensor will probably be due for a change, they only last like 60000km, but it won't impact on power, just on your freeway fuel economy. Problem for us is there's no aftermarket O2 sensors like on the r33's and r32's, so we have to buy nissan, which are $200+. You could dyno it and see if it's putting out the right amount of power by comparing it to the dyno thread. Or drive a friends corolla or whatever for some perception aligning ps: remember oil change after dyno mate

I'm a fan of corollas and camrys for reliability and being generally decent cars, but I'm a bit picky. The gf is still on her L's (ie really inexperienced) so I'm very keen on a car with abs and airbags, and the camrys and corollas in the price range with those are very few. We commute between Sydney and Newcastle regularly due to families and friends, work and uni being all over the place, so she'll no doubt be doing long stints early on on her P's. A bit pedantic, but I remember what a tool I was on my P's in the parents camry. I also needed the abs in my r34 to avoid some fools on the road in pouring rain last week, which was a really keen reminder of why they're so useful. What's your opinion on magnas mate? The 1996-2003 ones actually have a better ancap rating than the more recent ones (random), that's beside the point tho. Also after your opinion mad: how's it on fuel? Did you run it on e10? Are the spark plugs as much of a pain to change as people say? I'm guessing oil is plain old 20w50? Thanks, appreciate it

if you're really keen to make it a bit smoother do a search, it's a pretty common problem but most people just leave it. first things to do are clean the iac and aac valves, there are diy's on them in the diy section... but as said above, it's pretty normal

nice work mate, look forward to getting that all done myself, have to solve problems with coilpacks and clutch first (ie: replace all), a bit more pressing lol

yeah i get the conductivity side, i always just thought it was a copper alloy. nissan says run a 7.5w30, but that's in japan where it's slightly cooler, and for when the car is new. the thinner the oil the more wear it allows, that's why people vary between 0w and 10w. the general guide for oil is use a w40, based on all the testimonies in the oils thread about cars running badly on w50. it's a balance between getting fresh oil constantly to all parts of the engine/turbo and making sure once it gets there it's think enough to provide adequate lubrication. when you say dangerously thin, is this something you've observed, like hearing the lifters or something?

yep, if the spark has to jump further there is more energy behind it, which means more intense combustion at the source

pretty sure the ngk are coppers, not nickels. the bcpr6es-11 and bkr6es-11 are copper plugs gapped at 1.1, if the op is interested. both are fine, the bcpr is slightly longer so goes further into the coilpack. iridiums have a wide variety of success, from lasting less than coppers to actually lasting many tens of thousands of km. have a look in the spark plugs thread. also, on oil, most people find a 10w40 the best oil for an rb engine. a w50 is very heavy, but that's much worse for turbo'd cars. either a 5w or 10w is fine, as long as it's a good mineral semisynthetic or a full synthetic, and changed every 5000 km (or at most 10000km for na). have a look in the oil thread for more info

the recharging idea is a metaphor. it comes down to this, higher gap = higher resistance, because air is a really good insulator and the electrons from the spark hate to move through it. so the coilpack generates a stack of power, but only when it generates enough will it send a spark through the spark plug. it needs to generate less power to cross a smaller gap, which means the coilpack needs less time to generate the power. bad coilpacks do not work as well, so they need a smaller gap. i haven't read anything anywhere to suggest all turbo cars should have a smaller gap. there's actually a lot of people on these forums saying run the largest gap you can, and with new coilpacks and near standard boost that's usually round 1.1mm. the coilpacks should be able to cross that gap in the turbulent petrol-air mixture without trouble. the more boost makes turbulence higher which leads to even more chaotic pressure patterns which makes the spark less likely to cross the gap, ie the coilpacks aren't generating enough power quickly enough. smaller gap means the spark happens quicker birds, i sympathise with your iridium problems mate. there's quite a few testimonies in the spark plug thread saying iridiums aren't worth it. a mate of mine recently spend hundreds on his soarer hunting a misfire, he assumed it wouldn't be his 3000km old iridiums and was shocked to find they were stuffed. a lot of people go with coppers, ngk bkr6es or bcpr6es, and just change them every 5000km. that way the plugs don't have long to foul up, and it's cheap, consistent and monitored (by you checking the plugs every 5000km) power. i tried bosch fr7dp platinums for about $40 for 6 this time. they're pretty good, platinums for only a few extra dollars was what attracted me. btw be careful leaving the valley cover off for too long, it keeps the coilpacks cooler but also exposes them to the elements more. and thinnk about it, they're normally very hot under the cover, but with the cover off they're hot at the bottom and cooler at the top, and heat differentials are what leads to the plastic fatigue. oh yeah, and someone mentioned earlier that the recommended heat rating is 5? in japan it is on average cooler than here, which means our engines are not cooling as efficiently as there, which means they run hotter. also, once you add a cat back exhaust you're allowing the engine to boost more, which will heat the engine up more. hope you find the problem soon mate

you can reset it with the paperclip too, just go to the ecu check mode and plug the paperclip back in for a few seconds

agreed, yellow jacket haven't been round as long as splitfires so they haven't been tested quite as thoroughly, but it seems everyone who uses them is stoked with their performance, and if you get a dudd just send it back... go the yellow jackets, cheap, new, has plenty of support, and warranty!!

i don't know anything about r31 coils but could you use r32 coils and make a bracket? inconsistent misfire is so frustrating, and constant misfire above 3.5k rpm is really depressing, it's like the power has gone... in contact with paul from performance-wise now, hoping to get yellow jackets soon. 2 year warranty = goodness

hahaha, they're empty bottles from my beer brewing days. ever tried brewing the coopers pale ale yourself? easiest thing ever, about 5x cheaper and tastes amazing

that's terrible, i thought i was paranoid before, but now... so what can people do to protect their cars without several years learning to be an auto electrician? i had a mate who decided for some extra protection to run the ignition through the cigarette lighter as a crude immobiliser lol. can a hidden kill-switch be bypassed easily? perhaps hooking a crossbow up pointed at the window would do it...

just wondering, opinions on a mistubishi magna, 3.0L v6. there's heaps of them with airbags and abs for 3k. missus likes the look (not questioning it) and its cheap and safe. have a major design project due for final year in a couple of weeks and moving soon after that, then as soon as funds allow will be test driving as much as possible

hey mate, using engine flushing chemicals has been debated a bit in the 60s pages (from memory). the idea is that the flush will remove all the build up in one go that a good oil might remove over a couple of changes. the downside is that the cleaner will also strip carbon buildups in the engine which are thought to actually aid the engine, smoothing out the surface of the cylinders etc... i wouldn't use one unless i had one, im sure others will have opinions on it too. have a scan backwards, there's some good info in here on it

i haven't read any emissions reports comparing the two, but from a design perspective you either have thin piping and need less time in the cat or wide piping and more time in the pipe. the exhaust has to contact the piping for the catalyst to work, and such contact is promoted with smaller piping and high turbulence (by direction changes and heat differentials). so if you're using the same catalyst, and same residence time, wider piping will lead further from complete combustion. the residence time will have to be much higher to compensate for a small change in pipe diameter, as is the issue with all surface area to volume based systems

it's really inconsistent tho. it has the usual miss on full boost (12psi) from about 3500rpm upwards, but also has a constant miss all through the rev range sometimes, with the tc bailing at the same time. good fun

compression changed from 8.5-1 to 9.0-1 when the engine went to neo, is it the same on the rb26 or is that just the rb25's?

neo is newer so probably more reliable, but I'd probably do what paulr33 suggested

this is a big fear of mine with my misfire problem. have been saving for coilpacks so really hoping the damn thins work!! have tried all the bandaid solutions (taping, siliconing) with no luck

+1 wouldn't be the first time hard use has rapidly stuffed plugs...