Galois

didn't the rb25det and rb20det's have different actuators? i'll be doing the same as you soon maddowse, did you find one?

r31's can be found in decent nic for $1500

there's plenty of testimonies in the spark plug thread going both ways. some people say their iridiums lasted just a few 10k, some have them last over 100k. A friend of mine has a soarer with a bit of extra boost, he spent many hundreds trying to find the source of a misfire which ended up being his spark plugs, he didn't check them cos they were only 3000km old. May have been a faulty plug, but there's still a fair few stories each way out there. On a side note, Bosch platinums are less than $40 for 6. Some extra kms but without the big $$$

+1 to copper spark plugs being the way to go. had a mate recently whose iridiums lasted 3000km!

Dude, search. And read through posts before you submit them. People hate reading a wall of text and won't side with you with your hell-man "i drove without a licence despite being caught" stories. This is covered all the time with the result being "don't bother".

Hey guys, Got a flat tyre the other day which brought 2 things to my attention, it'd be great to get your opinions! 1. how do i change the hub studs? 2. is that a lot of rust on the hub? Thanks in advance

Trailer pics, sorry for lateness

yep, absolutely, it's a really common problem with skylines. the coilpacks often need replacing after 100k km. the popping is prob the misfire, i have the same problem. try the above methods and see how it goes: reduce gap, tape coilpacks, silicon coilpacks, replace coilpacks (or just skip to that)

maybe shit in your exhaust. came back to my car the other day to find an empty can of fanta and a popper squashed in my 4.5" tip, was not impressed

the options are 1.1mm and 0.8mm. if you get bkr6es they are 0.8mm, and bkr6es-11 are the same plug gapped to 1.1mm. yeah the spark crosses the gap easier when it's smaller, so the high turbulence in the cylinder can't "blow" it out. it's the usual temporary fix for misfire

gps readings can be a bit tricky cos of accuracy restrictions (within a few metres) and hills, wouldn't be relying on the gps. can you test your speed driving along with a mate?

is the ecr33 there s1 or s2? s2 r33 and r34 have the same turbo afterall

is that set at 10 or 12psi? maybe that's the cause of my high boost

All is still for sale, please PM me if you have any questions...

i have a mate with a soarer who spent many hundreds replacing, cleaning, fixing parts while hunting a missfire. when he finally had a look at his 3000km iridiums they were fkd, which was pretty tragic lol. so yeah, have you had a look at the spark plugs?

the kms are never legit, that's part of import life im afraid. i read somewhere ages ago, before i bought my gtt, that the cars are often wound back 60000km, not sure how they knew that though... hey clutch, will the blow by just look like sooty crap coming out?

yeah the stock gauges are renowned for poor accuracy, after 130k km + whatever was taken off and 10-20 years the sender is going to be a bit rough. mine changes depending on the age of the oil, with idle going from 2-4 as the oil ages

hahahahahahahahaha i actually lol'd why paint? i have a rattle under my car somewhere, only notice it when driving next to walls, and smell of petrol when idling still while hot for a little, could this be the cat? the boost seems to be high but im still hunting a reason why.

agreed, for error codes try this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...de-t266512.html but 21 is ignition problems. usually coilpacks. you have the options of replacing them with nissan ones, round ~$1200, splitfires ~$600, yellow jackets ~$400 and those dsr ones i haven't looked into yet. you know the nissan ones will give you over 100k km, but the splitfires probably will too, they're pretty heavily used. yellow jackets are newer and cheaper, i've only read good things but who knows what will happen in 5 years time, and have bearly heard of the dsr ones. does your car backfire? pop like a wrx? miss at idle? or at higher rpm? or none of these?

sorry for the painfully newbie question, but what does turbo efficiency refer to? is it something to do with air intake temp, or something to do with the turbine and compressor wheel design? or the a/r ratios? thanks

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hy...ce-t261613.html i bet it's in there somewhere. this thread has been on my to-read list for a long time

i do agree that speeds is certainly not everything, but the thread is about na speed. absolutely, buy a car you'll enjoy, but part of that enjoyment (for some people) might be taken away in a run against an xr6 at the lights. it is a pissing contest, but some people take it very seriously wow that's tall, like big bike tall

welcome mate an na r33 is going to struggle against all those i'm afraid, esp the supra. i have a mate making 160rwkw in his na supra, it's a machine, that's more than a gtt with exhaust (well with the better of them), that was a while ago and he's been modding a fair bit. pretty much, don't get your hopes up going against big torquey falcodores, you'll probably need a bit of talent to beat them. i remember i used to work for a guy who's shitty old mid 90s commadore smashed is brothers manual stock na supra over the quarter mile, every time lol on the kms, i read somewhere before i bought my gtt that something like 60 000km's were wound back on someone's prior to importing, so the odometer isn't much to go by. mad referred to a magna before, not sure if that's the awd one but i've heard good things about awd and a bit of oomf. there's a host of cars that are possibly more suitable if you want speed and cheapness, and it's been covered many times. but if it were me and i wanted something now, i'd go supra and then let it breathe really well, otherwise get something to pass you by till you can buy godzilla

the hicas only moves the rear wheels about 1 degree, pretty trippy how much of an effect that has. i read a thread on hicas ages ago complaining about the hicas on the limit. what happens is when cornering hard at speed the hicas initiates understeer, cos this is safer and way more manageable than the alternative. but once you keep pushing the rear wheels turn as far as they can, and the car oversteers. at which point you go to opposite lock and the car says hey, he moved the steering wheel, and so the back wheels turn in the same direction as the front wheels, but the back wheels are now pointing in the direction of the slide, hence throwing the car into the slide more. i think i need an example, so you're smaching round a right hander, the back wheels turn right, matching the front wheels, giving you some nice safe, controllable understeer, but you either keep turning, keep pushing or went in too fast and the hicas reached its limit and the rear starts to slide out, so you manage to wimper "OMFG" and steer left hard, and hicas screams "LANE CHANGE" and steers the rear wheels left, but you're already in a slide and now the rear wheels are pointing in the direction of slide, making a super-slide, and calling for the seats to be cleaned. so, if you're tracking a lot, it's worth dumping the hicas rather than buying upholstery cleaner after every corner. for road, don't bother, that little bit of understeer it gives you is nice and safe and gives a heads up, esp in the rain. a lot of people blame the hicas for their spins, but in truth they probably weren't going fast enough, just too fast for the corner with a boot full of boost. just some thoughts

just a little bit of chemistry on the nitrogen vs air: air is 79% nitrogen. in terms of heating, the air is usually good enough for most track running right, so cars on the street aren't really going to show much difference. back when i was karting the tyres would heat up to 60oC and above, the tyre surface becomes like plasticine to give massive grip and they were still running on air. in terms of gas and expansion there is very little difference between oxygen and nitrogen, like very very little, esp while we're talking temp differences lower than a few hundred degrees. AND there's only 21% oxygen in the air, which makes that tiny difference even smaller. nissan decided the r35 gtr needed nitrogen, but nissan to their credit did everything they could to make the r35 as precisely as possible, like individually hand-built engines and gearboxes tailored to each unique engine. bad luck about the tyres mate, hope you gave them an earful. im on nankangs atm and not happy with them, both back tyres have a bit of a shallow split (not low enough to hit the chords). one was my bad, inside tyre in the rain nipped a curb i couldn't see, the other happened on its own :$