Galois

i was always under the impression that as the brakes got to the end of their life they started squeaking

ahh im gonna spend so much time watching those vids haha thanks mate

how different are rb20det turbo's to r34 gtt ones tho? sorry to ask, but the general consensus in this thread and many others is that above 12psi on an r34 is asking for trouble

read mate, there has been so much on these oils in the last 10-20 pages. you'll want either 5w40 or 10w40 for an rb, that's the consensus anyways. as long as the oil is group 4 or 5 and the right weight, you're fine. (some semi synthetic oils are not bad for just road use. don't use castrol magnatec or anything else seemingly cheap)

isn't it risky running higher than 12psi though?

i think there are diy's on taking the dash apart and the gauges are just an extension on this, im going to do this soon so hopefully it isn't too involved

i think so. but it's boosting way up at 13psi so it's probably more than just the zorst, i have a 4.5" random cat back that came with the car, still have to check the boost gauge, which involves figuring out how to take it off lol, shouldn't be too bad

good to hear you found the problem mate, keep us posted

can that solenoid be changed to the boost pressure is higher than 7psi

haha i wouldn't know if my dad didnt touch some random valve and break it forcing me to find out what it was lol (hence the signature). if ur looking from the front of your car down at the airbox snorkel, its the black cylinder with 2 pipes on top nearby, probably 6cm in diameter and 15-20cm deep the control valve is the one with the blue plug at the back of the engine bay, towards the firewall

hey mate, how would we know if we had an rb20det actuator? any ideas? i thought there were ways to modify the original actuator, like changing the spring? only read about it tho so happily corrected

first signs of a missfire would probably be the missfiring, under max boost between 3-5k rpm, or randomly cutting out and having popping sounds like a wrx until you either turn the engine off or it fixes itself. ive had both. i was trying to find the coilpack silicon-ing diy but didnt manage it, same principle as these http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...=coilpack+clean http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...500-t32356.html

god damn it, so stroking was explained to me as the shortening of the length of the rod connecting the crank to the piston rod, im guessing that is wrong then lol. thanks for the clear up

anyone got stories on why to buy $600 splitfires over $400 yellow jackets? nissan parts dealer wanted almost $1200 for new coilpacks, its madness. have to say though, from what ive read they're probably the best of the options... i had a bad missfire and the car was pretty much undrivable towards the end of my last plugs (coppers) life. it was really, really bad. changed to 0.8 gapped fr7dp bosch platinums and problem is mostly solved. i have to get new coilpacks, but uni is insane atm and i only work part time so coughnig out a few hundred on coils is difficult (till i sell the kart ), so heading to bunnings for some silicon!

just a question regarding stroking (lol), that lengthens the stroke by shortening the effective radius of the crank (don't know the name of the shaft), so that would result in less torque right? so am i right in saying you're hoping the extra cc's will make up for that? sorry to deviate

thought (ie: question lol) ok, there seems to be some sort of stock boost pressure controller, im guessing this is the thing that allows the change from 5-7 psi. its the thing that both the actuator and intake pressure piping lead to and has an electrical input as well. can the ecu change this setting? what is the electrical wire there for? cheers, ben

i had always wondered about that. i hooked my actuator up to a compressor at work to figure out what its set at, it moved a little at about 3psi, then more at 7-8 and wasn't completely open till 14!! so i have no idea what its set at haha

also the stock gauges are notoriously inaccurate

check the general maintenance faq sticky mate, has it in there. from memory there are differences like abs, airbags, turbo (prob won't notice that one lol) and a stack of others... i think the s2's were 96-98? good luck

your missus has a good eye, doubt i would have noticed... some for sale cars you might be interested in http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/19...-2-t301817.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...90-t326544.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...90-t326544.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/19...-2-t301817.html

just changed my ngk coppers (bkr6es-11's) to bosch fr7dp's (equivalent to ngk platinums gapped at 0.8) and the car is now drivable again. the coppers died after 5000km and on the day i changed plugs the car was barely drivable. was very sad. still missing problems every now and then but that'll be the coilpacks, they're desperate for a change

if your carbon canister or its purge control valve are broken the vapours can escape too...

agreed, for that price the nulon is pretty good. i liked the nulon oil, there was a slight difference between how it operated (pressures, warm up time) to motul 8100 but on the whole i liked it (as a semi anyways)

agreed (as usual lol), you won't be able to modify a gts to be quicker than say a commodore from the lights. the stock car will be really nice and you may as well save and buy/make a monster when off your p's. either buy an r33 rb25de gts or something else (mr2, mx5, mx6, sss pulsar, awd v6 magna, supra, 2 seat manual z32, good civic, celica, and a host of others), something that'll do you till you can buy something really fun. just my thoughts anyways