Galois

hey mate, yeah i have to give a +1 to the above... i paid 15.5 for my r34 gtt so it's a bit surprising that they're asking so much even considering the whole pplater market. why is that center console so different to mine? did they release several different trims? the aircon buttons are in a similar position but unusual... have you checked the sau for sale section? definitely look to buy from there as the prices for na gts's are really good. the car above looks really good, but a stuffed gearbox could cost a lot, then add alarm and insurance and that's so much for an na gtt! also the engine bay is very clean, which might mean a fastidious previous owner or it might mean various leaks being covered up. don't forget that you have to assume all imports have had their clocks wound back, i read ages ago it's up to 60000km!!

and you did the lines like in the instructions? not sure mate, anyone else have some input?

did you follow these instructions exactly? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bl...amp;mode=linear

lol as usual kong i agree, for some reason i'd like to go to a service station which see's a massive turnover than one that is a bit further out, a bit less controlled and a bit more suss. guess i've had a few bad impressions, not everyone is in for honest, decent and good work i have the luck (?) of driving 20km to work/uni every day lol thats a pretty massive difference, i'll have to keep more of a lookout. i've never had any trouble with different fuels. im mostly stock with a bit of extra boost (still searching for the reason) and any 98 has been good

sounds like you've found your problem mate. from my understanding you have to bleed all 4 valves to remove all air from the system. i have to do this soon and actually have those topics bookmarked lol

do a search mate, there's been a few topics along this line lately (would give an answer but haven't done it myself yet)

^^^ +1 !!!!!!!!!!!! yeah you can move it to the point where you can squeeze a screwdriver in there and prise it out, but sweet merciful fk don't drop it. i did and it landed on the plastic guard under the engine bay, the gf was not amused when i asked her to get it with her thinner arms, not amused at all haha

how are your plugs?

what an epic read, thanks for the quote!!

how can it be that a bigger exhaust is worse? isn't bigger exhaust closer to no exhaust and hence better for power ie: bigger exhaust = better/freer flow?

hey kong, glad to hear the flush worked! change it after 10000km with some better stuff ir you're worried, if it doesn't last 30000km hten the manufacturor is screwed

^ all true and exactly what im doing except from like 5 posts up:

doubt they're that common but it can be done. there are some horror stories about mechanics screwing people over saying they'll take care of it all, and just bolting a turbo on. it'll be cheaper in the end to buy the gtst/gtt. you need to install turbo, intercooler, ecu (?) and heaps of other stuff, but you'll still have to change a bunch of other things like brakes and maybe gearbox and/or diff to get to the same spec as the stock turbo mine is a gtt. it's a great car, very versatile, i love it. it's got a mega-drone tho with the exhaust i bought it with lol, its on the fix list. i strongly recommend buying from the forums, i didn't but would have if i knew i had the choice at the time.

yeah going +t seems to be popular but really difficult. that sort of freeway rpm is normal from all the folks ive talked to. these are sports engines so they rev happily. and the top speed limit in japan is pretty close to here so the cars were designed with that in mind. where does it top out? not sure to be honest mate haven't tested it! haha, probably 240 or so? 5th gear will redline up at 250-260 i think. ok on servicing, every 5000km i change oil, filter, plugs, clean air filter, and that's pretty much it. still learning how to do a lot of stuff. attached is the r34 service schedule R34servicemanual.pdf

not trying to hijack your thread mate but I've often wondered about suspension: i have a 1999 r34 gtt and it's suspension would be less than pleasant on a track I'm sure, but for street driving in newcastle and sydney and even out at mudgee and tamworth it's really good. the uni in newcastle has some massive speed humps and it just glides over them. would these every-day situations be improved by aftermarket suspension, or would 11year old stock suspension be the better way to go? thanks

there are also those cheap bosch platinums, $38 for 6. almost as cheap as ngk coppers

there is always a one off deal that seems amazing that you have to move fast one, i am always told this by my dad whenever i buy something lol. but don't buy something that you can't test drive first. maintenance is more expensive than for, say, a camry lol. depends what you compare it to. you should use decent oil (tho with na you'll be happy with a good mineral one) and 10000km changes will be ok, see the oil thread if you want to see what people tend to do. for example, a service for mine was more than double than what i paid for my cold camry, and it needed lotsa crap done, needless to say i do it all myself (not complaining, its good to learn). tyres are more expensive than normal cars, and only go up with the coolness of your rims haha fuel economy is ok, there are threads dedicated to this though so have a bit of a look round. in my r34 gtt at a modest 110km/h it's at 3100rpm (urgh) nice to be in boost territory for overtaking but that many rpm isn't great for petrol. many, many, many people on here have reliable 300rwkw skylines, but the more power and reliability you want the less reliable it will be. for over 200rwkw you're looking at a turbo change which is a lot of dough, and you also wand damn good exhaust and intercooler kit etc, at least a grand each for those, and turbo kit will be more than double that. good luck with it mate, just make sure you don't buy a bomb, have a good look through the for sale section on sau, people tend to offer a lower price on the forums than on carsales or trading post

or if you can't be bothered with the leds http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...de-t266512.html really, really easy way to check for fault codes and reset the ecu, which should be done every now and then

i'd go a bit colder for even a stock gtt or gtst in aussie conditions so with more power def go the 6's, better safe then sorry right?

ahh yep i get it, so the plug is hotter to help burn off the soot, or another way, so its not a cool area in the cylinder for the soot to form on...

wouldn't i go for bkr7es (or bcpr7es) for the colder plug? or am i getting confused?

is that true about the shifter? how did you find out that its set to 12psi maddowse? i put mine on a compressor today at work and it started moving at about 7-8 psi (very first movement was at like 2.5!) and was fully open at 14!!! pic of mine below

yellow jackets or splitfires are the usual way to go coilpack-wise

heavy duty dsr coils? what are these? (other than a crapload cheaper than splitfires and yellow jackets)

how do i know what the actuator is set at? i put it under pressure at work and the actuator started moving at 7 or 8 psi and was fully open at 14. so which is the actuator set at?? thanks guys