Galois

lol there's a few of these The simple answer mate is that nulon advertises as fully synthetic, but it's only group III. Advertising means very little. What is important is that polarity has nothing to do with magnetism. What polarity does affect is surface chemistry, which may promote sticking of the charged particles to the metal, similar to how statically charged balloons attract dust and hair. and tiny charged particles connect to larger ones (such as in fine sands). Polarity of the chemical being an ester is extremely unlikely to have any affect on the surface chemistry (and the overall polarity), the particular structure of the ester will be the influence on that, and it's that exactly that castrol will keep secret. Yes to get past both filters they must be extremely small particles, I was just surprised that so much gets in the engine, we'd be breathing in measurable amounts too. Interesting, but a little off topis. Birds has helped quite a few of us and offered a lot of good advice, but that said no-one should follow blindly. If you use a shit oil and then change to 300V then do a UOA you will get a different result to if you use 300V then do a change with 300V and take a UOA upon the next change, which dramatically effects the validity of results without knowledge of the previous oil. UOA's are something i'll look into doing when i have more cash, just for interest. I like the idea of having a chemical assay of the oil. And there are obvious advantages such as determining when to change, but it's not as clear cut when it comes to oil performances.

search the diy topics if you really want, but its exactly the same principle. i have a gtt, so neo turbo. take off the engine cover, then intake piping, then undo the screw holing wires onto the long bit of plastic in the middle of the engine, then undo the bolts on that bit of plastic, then you can see the 6 coilpacks, unplug them carefully and replace. it is really straightforward, and seeing as the car isn't on the road just go out and have a play with the socket set, it is really really easy. btw throw some new plugs in while you're in there, probably just go bkr6e's if you're stock, or whatever the repco guy suggests, if you replace them regularly then there's no problem with coppers, if you want to spend the money go platinums or iridiums from ngk, or for only ~$40 get 6 bosch platinums, its what im gonna do next, the code is FR7DPX for the bosch's

did a quick search in the na forums and these came up, worth a read it's pretty well covered http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Na...ky-t166447.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...ood-t87859.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/N-...34-t283296.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/tu...Ca-t310791.html if you want big speed probably go a supra, i have a mate making more rwkw in his supra than me in my gtt

what a douche, sorry for the loss mate. i hate people like that

glazes? if it happens on wrx pistons wouldn't it happen on rb's?

they have a distributor?! lol i havent actually driven a car with a distributor yet i havent, there's been a couple of deaths in our families lately so haven't been doing much, that and exams are coming up

sorry, whats the dizzy? i have to respectfully disagree with you there, while i agree it is important for all people to know how to stop a car quickly without abs, it is always comforting knowing it is there and there's no doubt that abs reduces chances of an accident hahahahaha good mechanic!!

its really straight forward, just takes a little bit of time the first time (tho mine's a turbo). follow these, give yourself an hour or so and enjoy! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ug-t122284.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...tml&hl=coil

the stock oil and temp sensors are notoriously inaccurate too so don't freak out, all might be fine. well worth finding the problem tho

haha nice work kong, good to see the problem fixed

looking at the different bases from a chemical perspective, cracked mineral oil is quite different from esters. that would influence the additives and their concentrations that can be mixed into the oil to get the right weights. just a thought

will be advertising at the newcastle kart club and on ebay soon, so if you're keen pm me

spark plugs have been heavily covered in the thread SKIT_R31 posted above. have a read through at least the last few pages, its good stuff

it all sounds fine mate. the bottom hose has to be colder as its coolant that's been through the radiator, which is the cooler. from my understanding the thermostat will open when its components are at the right temp, the block and coolant in the will be more than enough to keep it at temp. and if the coolant on the cool side is enough to close it then the block wasn't hot enough anyway. AND throwing cold coolant into a hot block is bad, so the thermostat slowing the flow of cold coolant by partially closing is a good thing +1 50kms and the engine running fine, all is good. and yeah my r34 takes 5-ish kms to get to temp

esters (in general) have a slight polarity due to the double bonded oxygen present but, depending on the reactants used in the ester manufacture, there are likely to be significantly long carbon chains to offset the effect of that oxygen. these chains may have polar ends, we (me at least) can't comment on the particualr molecules used as castrol no doubt keeps that secret. that said, polarity doesn't have anything to do with magnetism. all the shape and the minor polatiry of the ester does is affect its surface properties, which is why its an effective oil. perhaps, due to its surface properties, it does stick to the engine similar to how a charged particle does to some extent, but oil is viscous and a liquid, which in terms of serface activity behaves very different to a light particle with a charge. the oil will drain with the rest of it into the sump. anything that causes the oil to stick to the engine components is an additive of castrols. If you don't control the UOA process than details such as the last couple of oils used and when they were changed have much more of an effect. im not saying that its less relevant, you're right its more relevant to real life, but the variables increase dramatically on an experiment with many many variables as it is (engine life, how its been driven, climates, engine treatment, modifications). 5000km is not a long time and in the extreme example the new oil may be cleaning up after the no-name brand one. Just to clarify, I haven't done a UOA but the process seems to have a lot of variability from car to car, situation to situation. Interesting about your wear rates mate, what oil are you using? What is the path for the sand from the air filter to the oil? Does it just get through from blowby? If so that's pretty scary that detectable amounts can get past the cylinders i totally agree, i freak out whenever i hear anything different lol if you wanted to you could test out a 10w40, you cant really damage your engine as long as you change regularly. no trying to push you or anything, the 0w30 might be the best oil on the market for your car, everyone's is different

hey mad, never doubted you went and looked it up as soon as i read your post, there's a fair few around the place between 4 and 5k. cheers jaxt, i'll have to have a good look at whats around. i live in newcastle and sydney (complicated year) so hopefully can find enough test drives. will have a look at maximas now...

4100 may be great, actually a fair few people on here use it because they feel fully synth in unnecessary. magnatec is supposed to stick to engine walls like a "magnet", which is no doubt very good in a normal car but for a turbocharged skyline it is not ideal. there is much more to an oil than its grade, it's weight and it's cleaning and lubrication properties are all controlled by the additives the company puts in. thats why oils of the same grade and weight are not the same, they can actually be very different. most people here have no option than to go by the feel of a vehicle. and mine was loud, raspy and slower on magnatec than on nulon. one thing each driver knows is the sound of their own car. i know there was a difference with magnatec, i could hear it, a certain sound that wasn't there before and hasn't been there since. thats all a bit romantic lol on the UOA front, i just have to ask how long you ran each oil for and on how many changes. if i ran some bad oil for 2 years, then ran sougi and got it tested it'd give a different result to if i ran sougi for 2 years then had the latest sougi tested. how does history get controlled? is the engine flushed before each test? just been wondering

hahaha i think we were all waiting for that mad! i never would have thought an sr20 car would be in that range, will have to give one a test drive. keep up the suggestions guys, old getz's are in the 3-5k range too

III/IV mixes i think. you bring up a good point, changing filters every 5000km, is it necessary. there are several posts, even in this thread, stating that the filter takes 4-5k to start effectively filtering, then we all change them at 5k. thoughts? i get how it works, like all good filters it uses the substance it filters out of the liquid to provide less gaps for the solid particles to move through, making filtering better. but does this really take 4-5k?

im already glad i posted that lol, have suggestions i wouldn't have thought of. does the r31 have abs and airbags? my gf will be driving it a mostly so i'm a bit keen on safety. how does the 626 go mate? feel and drive alright? i used to have a 94 camry and thought it was not too bad for what it was, had the shoes replaced in the rear drums one day and the brake balance has been really rear-heavy since lol

lol try magnatec they're still selling sougi if you're keen, can save you some money in the near-ish future at least

Hi all, I've been pondering this for some time and thought I'd voice it aloud. My gf and I are after another car soon. She's on her L's but ready for her P's, and I only have an r34 gtt. So we're looking for something reliable and cheap for 3-5k. And before anyone suggests them, I'm not keen on holdens or fords or some european cars, haven't been in one ive liked in a long time but have watched friends having them repaired regularly (specifically commodore, falcon, barina, astra, vectra, audi 80, peugeot, alfas lol). I'm hoping for abs and airbags, and been looking at camrys, celicas, lancers, imprezas, liberties, and civics. any other ideas? Cheers for the help

a place up here told me their selling it for 30, that might be without gst tho. what i meant with concentration is in terms of cleaning or any type of reaction concentration is the most important driver. so adding 500ml of sougi to some mineral crap will mean that there is barely any of the sougi agents in there doing their job, i think we meant the same thing. glad to hear the m5000 is going ok

what exactly reacts with the coolant, isn't is mostly ethylene glycol? cheers mate, yeah its an old camry but i'll only mix as little as possible. i get what you're saying tho, the agents are effectively being diluted by adding different oils. how'd the m5000 going btw? or go the sougi m5000, a mix of grade III and V oils and only $30

heat transfer between metals is very fast, so a warm engine will heat up the thermostat and thermostat housing very quickly plus what mad said above, if the heater's on you have to warm up all that coolant too, AND you're effectively cooling the coolant down by "trying" to warm up the car