Galois

the heat transfer between hot and cold water is much more effective than it is for air, so to have such a big difference seems odd. hot water rises through cold water, but it mixes better than air due to its physical properties. it'd be good to know if the temp gauge was at half way kong, you said it was idling for a while but while idling it takes longer for the engine to heat up because there's effectively no load.

how does mixing oils go? oils are soluble within eachother and that a simple weighted adding of two different viscosities is a good enough approximation, but is it possible for the additives to negatively interact to randomness? i have 500mL lots of like 5 different oils and have been wondering if i could gradually (or quickly) mix them into my bro's camry on a side note, after that gw sale he has PLENTY of oil haha

i did the opposite for a while when stoopid and on my p's (driving a camry like a gtr) these days it is not a happy car, always breaking engine mounts, constantly black oil and the auto transmission feels like someone kicked you haha. tis my lil brothers now

hey kong, when i was doing my shitty flush the top hose was insanely hot, and the bottom only a little cooler, but still really hot. but that said, the engine was idling for a long time you're temp gauge will give you a heads up well before you do any damage. what i'm wondering is how your top line could be hot while the bottom was cold? it must have been as i wrote just above, the thermostat opened and water was being pumped through the system, but hadn't been all the way through the radiator yet, so the rad had cold water entering the engine, which is why the bottom felt cold. does that explain it?

ahh yes, thats what ive been meaning to take a pic of lol. yeah mine is the same, bottom leads to thermostat. also, with the temp in the lower pipe, remember there isn't much mixing of the hot and cols water in the radiator, so you'll have the cold water from the radiator slowly leaving for a really long time. doesn't the thermostat heat up as the engine metal does, and once it gets to temp lets the cold water run through? to keep it at a fairly steady temp?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaUFy5c9JMM 2wd vs 4wd 911 porsches go head-to-head whenever the back wheels might spin there's an opportunity for 4wd to do the job better. also 4wd less likely to put you in the ditch

yes, please do. i'll be looking at some yellow jackets soon. birds was saying good things about them in the oil topic (at least i think it was the oil topic). they're probably about as good as the splitfires, but if worse comes to worse and they last only half as long as the nissan coilpacks, thats still ~60000km

if sougi stays in production you can get 300V quality (in terms of grade at least) a lot cheaper than 8100, just if you're interested

i've read in a couple of places that the powerband can be shifted by changing cams or using cam gears, how does this work? when it comes to changing gears, it depends when your car falls off its power band, this may be at 6500, or (more likely) much higher, like 8000rpm. think of the power curve of the engine, you always want to be accelerating as hard as possible, so if you change at 4000rpm you're missing out on 4000-7000rpm goodness, which is where most of the power is. theoretically, the higher the rpm, the more explosions per second, the more power, but all sorts of efficiency issues get in the way. still, higher rpm = higher power. in f1 when they want to dial back the power to save the engine/fuel, they turn it's redline down.

isn't biodiesel, well, for diesel engines? i understand the idea: green alternative and good prices in bulk, but skylines are performance engines that may not take kindly to major changes in fuel, but i may be corrected on that. if you want to run greener you have a few options, you can go extreme and run E85 if its in your area, there's a few threads on that. but get a good tuner to help. if not see if you can run e15 fuel alright (apparently the RON's vary wildly). also just drive carefully. changing your driving style is the best (lol and most difficult) way to save fuel. also make sure your oil is good, tyres are the right pressure and not excessively wide (same with the rims), make sure you're not carrying much unnecessary weight, maybe even get an economy tune? all will save fuel... im sure there are many more things escaping my mind atm, but there's heaps of simple gains to be made

why would you want to get rid of the air flow meter? doesn't the ecu need to know the flowrate?

forgot to mention large double layer kartech suit also for sale, included in the above, as well as all chassis add ons, partly leather seat cover and the original plastic parts from the helmet. also the exhaust lining is quite new (noticeable more torque), micron signal generator and receiver, water temp gauge, new fuel filter and lines, new fuel pump gasket, and no doubt other newness's I've forgotten. It was always well taken care of and will be sorely missed. I'm selling cos with uni/work I just don't have time for it, and I bought a skyline and have been planning on selling this for ages to pay part of it off i am in newcastle and may consider short drives for delivery

Hi guys, For sale is all you need to begin karting tomorrow (except two items mentioned below). Karting is a great sport, it is fun and exciting, and most importantly teaches skills which translate to road driving. On two occasions I have been able to avoid an accident due to locking brakes and car control in the wet because karting taught me the vehicle handling skills required. In the picture below is: 4 Spare wheel hubs 4 Spare tyres, bridgestones, for use in non-aka events 1 SNELL (Euro standard > Aus standard) spec ERG HJC helmet 1 Bottle of coolant (with some premixed coolant ready) 1 Bottle of fully synthetic rotax engine oil 1 20L jerry can to carry fuel in (with some 98 octane left over) 1 8L oil-fuel mixing bottle with graduations for various oil concentrations 1 Measuring cylinder with graduations for various oil concentrations and volumes in mL 1 Fuel jug (random containers which can hold fuel are infinitely useful when in the pits) 1 Fuel-oil mix funnel 1 Manual fuel pump 1 Near-full spray can of chain lube 1 Near-full bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid 1 Unopened mandatory clutch guard 0.5 metres of fuel line 1 0.8mm t-piece allen key 1 0.6mm t-piece allen key 1 Spare battery 1 Trickle charger for battery 1 AMB transponder 2 Spare chains 1 New 78 tooth sprocket 1 Freem rib protector 1 Pair of Sparco racing boots (size 10) 1 Pair of Kartech gloves (large) 1 ERG neck protector (large) 1 Tyre pressure gauge 1 Sparco kart stand All clothing and PPE in great condition. Also shown above is an assortment of useful spare screws, different spacer sizes and 4 jet sizes. Kart has new clutch, 2 hours since major rebuild (at a cost of $1400), topped up brake fluid and coolant, kart comes with slightly worn mg reds, excellent for practise. Also for sale, preferably with kart, is a 6x4" Felk galvanised trailer with spare tyre, registration till April or May 2011. Comes with useful wooden template for kart and fitted tarp and fastening gear. I paid well over $10000 for all this gear between 2008 and 2009, and I'm selling it for a mere $6000! All you need to begin karting tomorrow is the new-regulation airbox from any kart shop ($60), and to trade in the restrictor plate for the newer, larger one (ie: more power). Other than that, an AKA license and club membership and you're on the track. In the other pic is the kart as it is, I have to put the wheel and wheel hubs back on it. PM me if interested, I won't add my phone number as we've just had a death in the family and I want to avoid calls in delicate situations.

z442 is the r34 one

exactly what i was going to say, larger area means either more flow (which means less pressure is required to force the oil through the filter) or more filtration potential for the filter, or most likely a combination of the two. interesting that they both fit. the bigger one has the potential to be better filter but as said above there may be situations where it doesn't work on the car. i was given one of the bigger ones by someone who didn't know what he was doing at nissan (urgh) but it worked fine. sump plug washer i bought was way too big tho

it takes a while to retard the timing tho. when the ecu is reset it adapts quickly, but as time goes on the adaptation is effectively just fine tuning so it take longer to adapt to conditions

i have 1.1's in atm and they go well most of the time. i get this ignition error msg just before it starts missing and popping like a wrx, which means coilpacks need replacing, i just wanted to see if a smaller gap would cause the error msg and popping problem to come up less often... coilpacks are pretty high on the list, but i can't quite make it atm, esp as im working less with uni exams coming up... im really liking the sougi, im noticeably revving higher now haha. it gets up through the revs easier, it actually feels as if it revs up quicker, but that could always be the effect of a smoother, quieter, nicer sounding engine just making the driver happy. im gonna send gw another letter along the lines of "holy crap please don't kill sougi!"

the ignition problems involve missing. how do those yellow jackets compare to splitfires?

sparkplugs are ngk coppers with 3000km on them coilpacks are stock. can't justify spending 500-600 on a non essential upgrade at the moment unfortunately. i have had coilpack issues but there isn't much i can do sadly will go to bosch plats at 0.8 gap next to see if it fixes the occasional ignition problems

+1 sougi fan lol, it revs again!!!

ps, for anyone interested, the sale is on till the 6th (at my local one anyways)

cheers for the heads up mate. i'll be doing the same as you guys i think, buying for other cars could always try sougi m5000 10w40 if you want a cheap semi-synthetic

ok, so im going to look for a clutch fluid replacement, what fluid do i use? cheers

omfg i'll cry, i'd go back to nulon or 8100 not just positive experiences haha. magnatec isn't an oil you want to use on rb engines. im sure there are infinitely better grade III oils which are fine for low load, light use, but my engine makes awful sounds at high rpm, kind of raspy and rough, like gravel instead of petrol haha. and by haha i mean tears was going to do the oil today but it was massively hectic before the puncture and the car not starting (damn battery). now its tomorrows job, with a host of others

whoa so to go turbo you have to be less than 1.2L?! so there a like no turbo's in that class, unless someone's got some random 1.2 kia or something and put a turbo on it?