Galois

hahaha im just getting an idea. i was thinking along the lines of the advantages of using grade V vs grade IV in a mix, but in the wider picture i guess sougi makes a grade V so uses the grade V rather than stuffing round with a pao. could have used any number of kms, 5000 just came to mind lol. my point was at any point in its use an ester mix would be better than a pao mix, assuming there's no weird chemistry happening with the weird random mix in the mineral oil (but sougi is no doubt on top of that). got some sougi today oil change tomorrow morning to get that grindy shitty castrol magnatec outta my car!!

haha quick fix for you then champ, took me a lot longer cos i stupidly did it in the dark without instructions lol glad to help

does it produce smoke/steam when it's at temp or just at warmup and cold?

probably your cabin temp sensor unplugged, that was my problem and now all is well. follow these instructions to figure out what sensors are failing http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ai...p;hl=diagnostic remember the sun sensor will register as failed at night. r34's do not have hot and cold buttons, instead slowly turn the climate control dial from left to right to enter the different diagnostic modes. the mode you want is about an 8th to a quarter turn i think, and it'll flash the appropriate numbers. if it flashes 22, then your inside cabin temp sensor is not working. it is often left unplugged after work is done in the drivers side foot well. the sensor is behind a plastic grate on the left side of the steering wheel. to get at it do a search in diy, but from memory there's about 6 bolts to find to get the large bit of plastic off from under the steering wheel, then lower the steering wheel as far as it'll go and take the plastic off from around the speedo etc, then its a white plug just behind the grate. good luck mate

wow very good birds haha, have a brochure in my hand saying m5000 is 30% polyol ester base, so i guess the rest is grade III? ie: this is a III/V rather than a III/IV? so that would mean that only roughly 70% of the oil is decaying at 5000km providing better protection than say a 30% synthetic III/IV such as nulon? not bad for half the price

couldn't have worded it better myself mad (literally haha). r34 (and apparently s2 r33 turbo's as well) are 5-7 psi stock and unlike nice flexible steel ones do not cope well with boost above 12 psi. there are quite a few cases on these forums of people picking r34 turbo parts out of their cat lol. 12psi is on the edge of the efficiency range of the turbo anyways (ie: 16 psi generates little more hp than 12psi). listen to mad, his advice has steered a lot of us in the right direction many times hope it works out mate

hahaha aren't cars fun. there are so many little noises that i doubt i'll ever track down does it have any ester or is it a mineral/POA blend? ie: is it III/IV, IV/V or III/IV/V?

hey dude, 12psi is the supposed safe limit of the r34 turbo. plenty of people quickly turn to the turbo when oil fires from the back, ie +1 to turbo

haha bad luck birds. simple tasks sometimes create the biggest problems lol. will definitely be keeping an ear out for the second half of this story

just wondering, my gtt r34 skyline has a viscous lsd, would that take the same oil as a normal lsd?

that's exactly what i was thinking!!! lol will pick some of them up soon, got a service coming up

haha good description, but in any case the engine doesn't need coolant till it opens the thermostat, at which time the water is pumped through it. this ill happen quickly because the engine doesn't have to heat up the fluid to get to temperature

hey kong, how were the bosch's going prior to the coolant issues? interested in getting them myself. sorry to see the coolant probs, hope it works out

you could always fill the radiator and start the engine with the cap open? then as the radiator level drops continue filling. coolant is not like oil, so the engine can run for a while before it even needs waterflow, and the engine will be getting the water flow when necessary cos the thermostat will open... just an idea, similar to what i did.

just wondering, and sorry to stray a bit off topic, but why is it easier to get power from an sr20?

haha so very true. it is certainly more satisfying in the higher rpm than other cars ive driven kudos told me my only choice was genuine nissan as there were no aftermarket ones for an r34 gtt... im not going to say the 4100 isn't better than the 8100, but there are a LOT of great testimates to 8100 in this thread, esp going back 20-40 pages ago there were lots of good words on its behalf. additive doesn't equal awesomeness, the mechanism behind a good oil is way too complicated for that. the oil has to lubricate both big moving parts like pistons, and small ones like in the turbo, and fast moving ones like the turbo, and relatively slow moving ones like the cam shaft, it also has to stand up to great stresses on boost and make it if the engine is run for 18 hours straight, and all the while we expect it co clean the engine from carbon build up from both blowby and oil decomposition and demand it protect well at 5000km and beyond. oil quality can't just come down to weights, cos then every piece of crap 10w40 would be better than 8100, but i doubt (haven't checked) there are any positive magnatec posts. 10w40 and 5w40 are very close, birds (whose word we all hang on lol, cheers for all the great info mate) has stated this repeatedly, and after 5 mins of driving the two oils would have almost identical viscosity, and actual identical viscosity after 10 mins despite their chemical composition (given two identical oils of the same weight, just for the sake of the point). for example, the oil might have too much of a flushing effect on the engine and strip any positive coked carbon deposits, or for an extreme totally unrealistic example, it's possible to create a 10w40 oil which will slowly dissolve the metal in the engine. if there's a problem with an oil it is most likely with the chemical additives acting in a counter-productive way on the engine components, or doing weird things chemically independently of viscosity (comparing a 5w and 10w). the major differences between oils are their chemical composition, not their viscosity. again, otherwise we'd all be buying whatever no-name style 10w40 we could find. also don't forget that all over the forums people have had weird results because each engine is unique. its like spark plugs haha im jealous of every person who has effectively solved their missfire coilpack problems with a couple of layers of electrical tape. again i'm not saying that 8100 is better than anything, just that particular oils work better/worse on particular cars, and that cold weight difference between 5 and 10 is of lesser importance than oil composition. the advantage of a 5 is that it is easier to pump on start up and get to all components of the engine, though as birds says 10w will get to all components soon enough in the average australian environment. 5w30 seems very light to run on a car of a skyline's age, the recommended weight prety much unanimously is 10w40, with some people going with 5w40 as the hot weights are the same and in terms of viscosity measurement 5w and 10w are remarkably similar.

haha yeah, fixed. i thought something looked a little weird before i posted but being friday i didnt think about if after that. motul 8100 xcess can be grabbed for $75 so not too much more than sougi, royal purple is up round $81. nulon was ok, just the 8100 was worth way more than $10 more than it, i guess other grade III's will be the same... yeah, so angry at the castrol, not sure why, i think i just figured due to its advertising it would feel ok for at least a few hundred km. i saw some adds like "want performance/quality, want castrol magnatec" or something like that and it just really annoyed me compared to whats out there. i'd change it tomorrow, literally, if i had managed to sougi today, but alas i'll have to wait till monday. i'll probably change some time next week when i get the chance, it doesn't take long and i'll feel so much better about it. +1, someone who's been around longer than us could maybe look into upgrading the quality of the table/list i put up the other day. all the info was taken from their websites regarding pao and ester composition, but still, quite often it's experience that counts

group IV's are good for 5000km, but they're pao so they will break down after that, the double esters won't break down for a while after that. not sure if they actually break down or just become too saturated with blowby etc carbon from combustion... seeing as most of us are only likely to get a couple of changes out of sougi i'll probably go 5000km. i'm picking up a few on monday for a ridiculously low $60, can't believe it lol, i thought it'd be mid 60s, not high 50s. anyways, prob back to 8100 after that. i really liked it, SIGNIFICANTLY better than nulon. seriously, worth way more than the extra 10-ish bucks just wondering what birds recommends about sougi changes? do you go the full 10 000km or a little less?

the double ester oils, ie group V, are supposed to last significantly longer than the pao synthetic oils, group IV's, up to 10 000km. but it will probably clean all sorts of crud from your engine left over from other oils so you might want to do the first change a bit quicker. i'd personally go 5000km the first time and maybe lengthen it after that.

for anyone that wants to know, lol, unsurprisingly castrol magnatec is awful for a skyline. i'm running it in an r34 gtt as part of a flush im doing every 1000km (long story), this flush it ended up being castrol. i know some people pay more attention to the weights of oils rather than whether or not it is synthetic (which is inadvisable) so just a heads up, this oil won't make you happy. the engine doesn't like to rev, it feels uncomfortable at mid to high rpm and is certainly louder/more raspy. it is cheap and the right weight but still not really an option. so, just so everyone knows for sure, castrol magnatec is no good for skylines...

to check error codes you can use the following diy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...de-t266512.html

hey dude, in case the problem comes back, it has been well covered: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tc...p;hl=tc+failure http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...Li-t316918.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...ss-t319446.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pe...re-t319597.html to read the fault code follow this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...de-t266512.html does/did it make a wrx style popping when it failed? this all happened to mine, haven't bothered to fix it yet tho. can't quite afford new coilpacks (ie: splitfires)

yeah just got an email from kudos saying the same thing where did you get the $198 one from basho? thanks

a search will probably give more info than i can, but maybe clean the aac? are your oil's topped up and the right weight?

i was just looking there on their site. so it was fairly simple, even if a bit fiddly? just unbolt the old one, bolt in the new one and plug in? there's no issue with the plug fitting? cheers for the savings kong! lol $77 is quite affordable