Galois

thanks for that mad082. just confirming procedure, connect negative to negative, and positive to positive correct? and the reverse for lead removal.

+2 to krazykong, 1: charging an extra 200 is nuts for iridiums, and 2: there aren't leads to each plug as each plug has its own coilpack. i think some mechanics throw the term "flush" around quite loosely lol. there are diy's for pretty much anything you want to do here in the forums: usually check forced induction/na/gen maintentance stickys, even drivetrain and transmission stickys, and the diy thread. all great info on what to do. there's nothing like the sense of achievement when you do the job yourself and save many hundreds of dollars

here's the service schedule for an r34, its probably similar for r33/32. when i was learning what to service a mechanic quoted me $250 for a basic service: oil+filter, air filter and top up of fluids. to do yourself: good oil + filter $100 and cleaning your air filter is free!! major services usually include a coolant flush (prob just radiator though), as well as plugs and a few other minor things ive forgotten. the attachment is much more detailed, i doubt many mechanics would follow it... R34servicemanual.pdf

its surprisingly easy to service yourself mate, 440 is a joke!! you can do it for less than $150. clean your air filter, or replace it if keen (prob find a diy for that). the spark plug and oil+filter change diy's are below... i use ngk bkr6es-11 spark plugs, they're copper and about $4.50 each. they're copper so they need changing every 5000km, with oil. for oil, use a proper full synthetic, either gulf western sougi s 6000, motul 8100 xcess, motul chrono 300v, or royal purple, and for weight 5w40 or 10w40. on filters, plenty of people seem to use ryco, or drift (high quality), or the nissan filter bought from the dealer. might be worth getting a sump plug washer while you're there. the vast majority of people on sau use one of these oils. do a search for changing diff and gearbox oils, there's a good sticky in the drivetrain and transmission section. there are also service guides floating around, which can tell you what it's time to service diy's below oil: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ug-t122284.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...p;hl=spark+plug spark plugs: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sk...ngi-t10035.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...tml&hl=coil

ok, forgive my naiveness here, but aren't skylines susceptible to damage from jump starting?

congrats on the improvement mate. im running stock too so ill be grabbing some of them soon

really? shannons wouldnt insure me... bitches lol im with justcars with r34 gtt. it was part of the insurance that i had to get an immobiliser, else it was void. was about 1900, cant remember excess. i agree, i sleep better knowing that i can't lose many grands by some fools actions

interesting, do you think a tune could have helped to make sure maximum explosive force was achieved at top dead center? just a thought

lol, same problem as mine. stock coilpacks only last like 120000kms so its def worth replacing them all. look at import sites like justjap http://justjap.com/store/search.php?mode=search&page=1 there's no doubt other sites and other types of coilpacks. these may not last long tho, splitfires are the most praised coilpacks

ive often wondered about this: copper is used for its conductive properties in electrical work, in fact isn't it one of the best conductors? but my understanding is that it wears more easily than platinum or iridium, so these are often used in vehicles. but if platinum or iridium are poorer conductors, does it take the coil packs slightly longer for the coilpack to generate the spark? and if it takes longer, is the spark duration shorter, making the spark less effective at ignition? the following site has a list of elements by their electrical resistance, copper is second only to gold. which, given the same resistance from air (same gap) would mean copper would spark sooner and longer? http://environmentalchemistry.com/yogi/per...electrical.html ok, another question/point, does the fatter tip of the copper generate a spark with different properties? ie: could it produce a better spark? people often want to focus on gapping and plug type because bigger boost blows the spark out, so reducing gap reduce resistance which creates a stronger spark (duration and power crossing the gap). it doesn't matter to us running fairly stock boost. so to run more boost, you want to run a stronger spark, whether you change plug type or gap. but given the power is generated by igniting the petrol for full explosion at top dead center, as long as the cam advancement is right they should all perform the same right? (assuming brand new plugs)

i'd put about 4.5L in for the last oil change (inc. filter), so thats over 5L now...

could always call gulf western? quick question guys, i stupidly put about 700mLs extra oil into my car. it was on a hill and i was clearly asleep, cos when i checked the oil it looked low, due to the hill, and i put some more in, before thinking f#$%^&k!! im doing oil changes every 1000km (or 2 weeks, they're pretty much the same) cos of the poor treatment the car had before me, so the next one is due next weekend. will the extra oil be a problem? thanks guys

thanks mate, yeah the gtt is pretty fun but i guess the biggest difference is in the rain lol. i have a mate with a club evo 6 wrx and he says its amazing how little he has to change his driving between wet and dry. what boost are you running atm?

just out of interest, how do you compare the gtt to the wrx?

not to mention you significantly increase your response time for emergency stops etc to avoid crashes

hahahahaha, you can't write this stuff. this is an awesome car, what a ridiculous list of awards!! gl with the sale mate, must be difficult to sell this, what u getting next just out of interest? guessing short of a good ferrari its not as fast

thats cool mate. hope all's ok. krazykong, yeah ive been wondering myself, its not likely every mechanic spends the time and effort required to properly flush the system then remove all the water, unless they use pumped demineralised water. it might not be too difficult if you knew where the drain plugs for the block are lol

wait, so the stock gtt turbo can safely handle 13psi? still trying to figure out why my stock gauge is showing 12 psi during a heavy load, i was chasing a monaro from 20-70 in second yesterday and say about 14 sustained at 3500rpm at above!! car is supposed to be stock, with some unknown brand of catback and im guessing a tune... thanks for any info

lol damn, have been searching and going through the garrett site, they have some pretty good tutorials there for turbo noobs. thanks anyway

hey, sorry im just learning about turbos, but would you go with the -9s to start with cos the A/R ratio is higher, giving more power? but the -5's A/R is lower in peak power so not-advised unless other most are coming too to raise the power? or have i got this all wrong?

either, i don't think there's any difference. when i was shopping for coolant is was about $6 for 4 litres, which is actually pretty cheap for water in a bottle lol. still went with the nulon llc pre-mix, which was a mistake. i thought mine was bad but it was actually ok. what i did, and i do not advise this, was open the radiator cap, connect the return-to-radiator pipe to a hose leading to a bucket, and started the engine. i used hot tap water (~80oC from kettle lol) and continually refilled the radiator. when the water became clear i started putting coolant in till it became fairly green. but there would still have been some tap water left over, so i went for a drive to mix all the fluid together, let it cool, and detached the bottom radiator pipe, draining ~4L as a guess from the pipe, partially from the engine cos of siphoning, and from the radiator. then i connected it all up and refilled with pre-mix. took all freaking afternoon. i had planned to unplug the top and bottom engine draining plugs, same with radiator and heater, connect it all up and re-fill, but couldn't find the bottom plug on the engine. and i couldn't figure out how to get the thermostat out, so i couldn't just flush through the engine with the hose, so i used the water pump. problems: 1. tap water may boil in the engine, causing damage to the radiator and other parts 2. so many burns lol 3. still tap water in there because it wasn't a proper flush. at least draining the radiator again dropped the concentration of tapwater contaminants assuming the diy is similar to how u survived, or some other simple method, ill be doing it again soon. just to know that the best material is in the engine... dont forget the thermostat has to be removed to get full water flow from the hose through the engine, since its closed at cold temps. which also means you need a silicon gasket for when you put it back in (apparently anyways)

yeah, you'd have to remove all the tap water first, but if you use de-ionised water you can just wait for it to be clear then add come concentrate to the radiator.

Exactly the same symptoms as mine. Did you follow the diy above? whenever the malfunction indicator light comes on an error is logged, you can find out what the error was from that. might be worth doing to check there's only one error coming up

this has kinda been covered in another topic recently http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Op...wd-t317738.html might be some useful info in there. not sure about your mods, maybe you can transfer some of them onto an rb26 or stagea engine, sell your engine stock and but a gtr rolling body... just a possibility

i have the same problem in my r34 gtt. you could run the engine diagnostics using this diy: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...de-t266512.html if you get the signal 21 it means ignition problem, which is likely to be coilpacks. the problem with taking one coil out at a time is that it already has to be failing, ir: not running normally. mine pops like a wrx but once it gets above 2500-3000rpm it goes away, most of the time. don't like doing that tho cos it putting stress on a stressed engine. people have all sorts of ideas like taping the coilpacks, or covering them with silicone gel stuff to insulate them, so the charge doesn't arc to the engine block. does your problem happen often? cos mine usually fails round 10 mins into the first trip of the day...