Galois

have u run the diagnostics? diy: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...de-t266512.html does it make a wrx-y popping sound?

i think i'll bump this as i have to look into it too. i saw >0.9 bar, or ~13-14 psi last night when chasing a guy in a monaro in my stock gtt + shitty catback exhaust from prev owner. interesting note, between 20 and 70 out of a corner the skyline held on admirably, it didn't get away at all. never know if he was in the right gear tho...

yeah, for a stock skyline the nkg site recommends platinum or iridium, that being said, loads and loads of people run coppers

cheers, looking forward to it mate. i did a flush last weekend with the worst method anyone's ever tried haha, took many many hours cos i used the water pump to push the water through. anyways, thanks man cant wait for the diy

yeah mate im really keen to see how this turns out. there's nothing as interesting as people doing things differently, and you have a real reason to stick to 2L and non-turbo. i, and many others im sure, love to read about how much people can do to engines to get what they want out of them. hope it works out. id like to get into some sort of series like that one day, when time and mulah permit (uni student lol)

Its a physical separation more than some sort of chemical regulator, the filter is there to make sure that only liquid oil is circulating through the engine, you're right when you say dust etc are filtered out

Aren't these small bits of dust etc caught up fragments of metal that they're attracting? Drift are known as pretty good filters, and loving the idea of not bashing knuckles just to get the oil filter out. Also, does anyone know where the oil pressure sensor is? its always interesting how different oils and filters change the pressure reading. cheers!

can you include me on that pm please? lol, i'd feel much better knowing my alarm was correctly installed

... so why does anyone buy anything else?! definitely know what i'm getting next

hahaha i thought they were pretty comfortable, besides we're talking about ride aren't we? and this discussion is coming down to personal preference, i don't mind driving for 3 hours in the skyline, esp if it means i get the tightness and responsiveness in the corners, others may disagree. fair enough. i don't like the feeling of sinking into loungy seats and a floppy chassis setup, again, some people like it, some people put the effort in to change it. when i used to race karts there were people who'd go for really tight setups, others very lose ones, and it made a big difference. its just preference. yeah, you're right about the leaf springs, its only the wagons and utes that still have them, not sure why but my old man always used to tell me about the leaf's on his old xf. it just means that the bouncing is caused by old springs, and its a characteristic that only falcons and commodores seem to have. im not just some "skylines are the best, that's it" guy btw, just saying that the stock r34 gtt ride is actually pretty decent for a sporty car

Car/Mods: 1999 r34 gtt, 3" cat back exhaust with 4.5" tip, propably tune with previous owner, nankang r18/265's on back and r18/235's at front Gas of Choice: any 98 octane, do a lot of driving so don't always get to choose where i fill up $ Per Tank: @ between 135 and 147c/L lol, usually $70-85, filling round 55L Kilometers Per Tank (Based On Driving Area & Driving Style): drive in a lot of traffic with uni, work but also do sydney-newcastle trips weekly, gets round 400km per tank, but only since i reset the ecu

lol, my bad, id assumed they were the same as falcons. i was referring to watching the distance between the tyre and the wheel as you go over occasional bumps on a smooth road. in a bigger (older) merc or a maxima or even a camry, they don't spend the next 15 seconds wafting up and down. not doubting you're experience mad082, just saying ive always felt like the commodores ive been in have felt really loose and unsecure, havent driven on a long trip tho. i used to drive a late 90s commodore as a delivery boy and the handling in suburbia was unbearable, granted it was 10 years old at the time and had >200000km. that and despite the owner's efforts he couldn't keep up with replacing/fixing broken bits (power windows, air con, lose indicator stalks etc) agree with the lounge chair comment tho lol. the skyline stock suspension is really good for what it is imo, has a good balance between hard and firm. but after driving the parents camry for a couple of hours its a reminder that skylines are still a sports car.

whoa, that's big im guessing he's gonna say because 6 cylinders would be interesting vs all those 4 cyl engines. the problem is having the same capacity and increasing the no. of cylinders loses torque. straight 6 sounds better tho lol im guessing you'll want vct as well, and maybe go for the neo head as a slightly better starting point. might be worth looking through this thread too http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/20...le-t317633.html whatever you do, it's going to be expensive.

yeah, if you're going to go semi-synthetic, you don't need to spend $60 on nulon. one thing about weight, and im sure mr. kong knows this too, the hot weight is most important. the cold weight is just the viscosity when cold, so comparing the 10w to the 5w, the 5w will get to the cylinders and round the engine, providing lubrication and protection, faster than the 10w, but the 10w will provide better protection and lubrication when it gets there, when cold that is. either way, they're getting closer and closer in viscosity as the engine temp increases, and its properties of the oil at temp when thrashing or driving long trips that can harm the engine. the biggest advantage of 300v is apparently the compound it's made from. the motul 8100 xcess is group IV, so fully synthetic, but the 300v chrome is group V, some double ester compound, which is not as prone to heat and wear degradation. sougi is the best performance for the dollar, and a damn good oil according to everyone who's used it. can't wait to give it a try i totally agree with this, got conned a couple of times by the supercheap/autobarn whatever that this is the oil to use. maybe on commodores, but not the best for skyines

got "randomly" breath tested last week, the police followed me in the distance for a while then when i turned onto a smaller road the red and blues lit up. first time i was asked to pop the bonnet and i was very glad it was all stock, no big shiny things to get attention. i'd imagine a big high mount turbo or stainless steel piping everywhere would have had a different result...

how can you determine if it has been properly installed?

could something else have restricted the boost when the ecu went crazy?

wow, they were keen! lol. if they can get round the three point can't they get round a fuel solenoid? isn't the fuel pump one of the three points?

lol, tilt tray just get jb or whoever to install a 2 or 3 point immobiliser. that makes the car as hard to steal as possible, even cars with big shiny alarms still have breakable windows. the alarms must automatically turn off after 30seconds (90 outside nsw) anyways so all anyone has to do is throw a rock, hide for 30s to see if anyone comes and then take your umbrella (or whatever they can get their hands on). from what i've heard it takes a long, long time to start 3 point immobilised car, they may as well wait to mug you when you go for a drive

on the r34 is the thermostat by any chance connected to the bottom hose, not the top? I couldn't see anything like 3 bolt fitting on the end of the radiator inlet pipe (to the radiator), but there was something like that completely inaccessible on the end of the radiator outlet pipe... also, what does the 100/30 grade refer to? thanks

its probably an out-dated idea, or just a stigma, but it has been said that ngk are better for japanese turbo-d engines. anyways, there's always been a huge debate about iridiums vs coppers. platinums fit somewhere in the middle there. some people find that coppers only last a few redlines before melting, some find that they're stuffed after 5000km, some find they're still good at 40000kms; some find that iridiums last the predicted 100000km and more, some find they last only 5000km, some find them stuffed after 5000km (all of this from the link below). its a bit like oil, you have to find the right one for your car and make jugement based on your car. its pretty hard to safely gap platinums and iridiums because the fine tips can be (and usually are) scratched in the process, removing the reason you payed all the money for the plugs in the first place: the precious metal. i decided to start with coppers as 1. a base point and 2. $150 on plugs seems like a lot when a lot of people say that $27 worth of copper is as good. i put in bkr6e-11's and i occasionally get a miss on idle, so i'll go to bkr6e's next (ie: the 0.8mm gapped plugs). tho that miss is probably aac or coilpacks or something else on the list. this thread has almost everything you need to know about spark plugs: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...gs-t104405.html an epic read but worth it in any case, if you're using platinums for 6 at $38 and it works well then it sounds like a pretty sweet set up to me

why do the drift filters have a magnet? if an engine is losing a measurable amount of metal each service the engine would screw itself up pretty quickly wouldn't it? or is it more precautionary, because having metal filings in the oil will quickly degrade the engine? tuf: nulon isn't a bad oil but it isn't fully synthetic, which is what most of the guru's strongly recommend. the royal purple, motul 8100 xcess and sougi s 6000 are all fully synthetic group IV oils for roughly $75-80, thats 10-15 more than the nulon but are highly recommended oils. or, like a few people seem to do, call great western, find a distributer, and go pick up some sougi s6000 for $60 and laugh all the way home knowing you got grade IV oil for grade III price perzn: most people use the motul 8100 xcess, and thats across a really wide variety of mods. its a really good oil and a great starting point before you experiment with other oils. for the record, my car seemed a lot happier on dirty motul 8100 than on clean nulon (doing 1000km changes to flush out the engine cos previous owner didn't take care of it, lol and not keen to use an engine flush just yet) anyways, read some earlier posts guys, take 20 mins and skim through the last 10 pages, there's so much good info in this thread

sweet, thanks mate. it's just making a clean spooling noise when on boost, so hoping its something else. i'll have to find a performance shop round here (newcastle) to have a look

that sucks mate. did the malfunction indicator light come on on the dash? cheers for the explanation above

and various bmw's and other european cars (and gtrs?). it would be to do with modifications, and yeah, are they really going to book that many people? haha agreed. if it looks like it could be dangerous to a pedestrian or that it's not securely mounted you'd have no chance after an inspection. assuming, that is, that this rule is in force. had a look on the rta site and couldn't find any details on legit mods