Galois

ahh, that's good news about pinging and bad about the turbo. figuring out why the boost is so high is now top of the list lol. it was only ringing on idle, and it couldn't be heard in the cabin, so not sure if the noise is there on boost. i used the throttle control in the engine bay to increase revs and it disappeared, then reappeared very faintly at (guessing) 2500rpm, like it was something vibrating. if it was the turbo, would it only make noise on boost? what does high boost stress from the turbo, the impeller or compressor? and im guessing a new stock gtt turbo is pretty costly?

Hey guys, I was listening to the car idle yesterday with my head in the engine bay and noticed a slight ringing, trying to think og how to describe it, maybe like rotating a bell so that the tongue thing grazes around the outside rather than shaking it to cause impact between the tongue and bell. that was poor haha yeah, so anyways what exactly does pinging sound like? and has anyone noticed this before? it'd be fantastic if i just had to tighten a bolt, but it's never that easy. car is an r34 gtt with cat back exhaust, stock elsewhere but running an indicated 12-13psi for reasons i have not yet found thanks for any help/advice!

splitfire coilpacks are between 500 and 600 depending where you order them from and how much delivery is. there are also rip off ones but im not sure how they rate, have read that they're ok for budget coilpacks, but some people on sau are really against them. its an easy job to change them. i used the following tut to get to my spark plugs http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...tml&hl=coil pay particular attention to step 5, its very important to get that exactly right i have the same problem on my gtt, will eventually save up to get coilpacks which will hopefully fix other random noises when the car is idling. i guess i'll get a constant miss soon enough to hurry me up tho lol

yeah ive noticed similar things, i think its largely state of mind. i was pretty ill last week and spent 2 days in bed without food, which meant 2 days of not driving which is prob the first time in 6 months of owning the car. im sure it was a bit rougher when warming up, but it still sounded weird for the whole trip (60 mins to pick up the gf). being a japanese car it was probably running fine, just the driver being tired and famished wasn't used to all the normal sounds... anyways, back on topic, why didn't you look into rb30 conversion? too expensive? or didn't want to put the rb30 bottom on a car you might sell?

put a turbo in it and they will change their minds when they catch up lol. you do have the disadvantage of one of the lower skyline power/weight's. but there's heaps you can do about that, just read through the na threads, some people get insane power. could always go rb30? id love to know enough to do that one day biggg +1, side skirts and some classy rims and it'll look amazing, i'd go 18" cos apparently above that starts to slow acceleration, and you'll only be going in straightlines if hanging with your mates in falcodores there's always been the local vs imports scene, so don't expect too much understanding from die hard commodore people ahh, i have to disagree ever so slightly mr. mad, i am constantly shocked at how my r34 gtt rides over bumps and handles in corners with the same stock suspension!! it's stiff enough to hammer the uni speed humps (newcastle uni's humps are bs), but somehow forgiving enough for use every day, and there are a lot of shitty roads in newy. i always feel sorry when i see some falcodore bouncing along, it makes me seasick watching the rear end just bouncing up and down. i guess thats what you get with leaf springs tho. though i have to admit though the ride is decent, it's completely undone by my retarded drony exhaust! if you end up buying a commodore you'll be disappointed every time you go round a tight corner or find a nice piece of road, lol and every time you have to replace a door handle i guess (hope) you're talking about resale cost here? is it really that much worse than for commodores?

this might be worth a quick read, 13.4 1/4 miles with stock smic. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/13...mp;hl=clean+aac also a mechanic was telling me last year that fmic's are defectable now, and given they're easy to spot they're a cop magnet. i was there looking at a highly modded r33 so maybe he just wanted the labour dollars. not sure how they'd police it either, prob more than half modified turbo cars have a fmic

yeah, everyone seems to love the nkg's. but when it comes to gapping, if you're pretty stock then 1.1's will prob be ok. it's like oil tho, different for every car, and might take a few changes to get the perfect setup. just listen out for a miss

hey guys, so once you've flushed with tap water, how do you get the tap water out to add the pre-mixed stuff? it tends to be the suggested thing: grab 2x5L of nulon premixed LLC and replace the coolant, but how do you get the old water out? Do you simply drain the radiator using the radiator drain plug down the bottom, then drain the engine using it's drain plug, then undo the top and bottom plugs for the heater to drain it? If so: im guessing the heater has to be on? AND where is the engine drain plug? thanks guys

congrats on it mate, let us know!

just out of curiosity, how do u like the gtr after the gtt? im thinking of doing the same upgrade after a few years (of saving lol)

oh yeah, and for diff and gearbox oils, look at the other forums, its in the gearbox section in a sticky

read through the thread, even the last 5-10 pages will give you a good idea of what to use. most peoples combinations of cars and mods have already been covered, but sometimes the older posts are a bit out-of-date. and, as said above, only you can find out which oil is best for your car by trial and error. i tried the motul 8100 5w40 and the car seems to like it, some people swear by it. pretty keen to try the sougi s 6000 next, it's underpriced if you can find a distributer and known as one of the best not sure who, but someone earlier said you can't go too wrong with oil, as long as its semi-synthetic and you change it every 5000km's then experiment away

just wondering, why do you want to drop the boost, only to add an fmic to lift the boost again? lol, this reminds me of another thread, deja vu? lol yeah i have a similar boost, maybe even just above 12psi. but id always assumed it was the exhaust, and possible aggressive tune by previous owner. have you considered changing/high flowing your turbo? not sure on cost of those options tho

cheers. sorry for all the questions mate, is it hard to put in? im trying to learn how to do as many mechanical things myself as possible lol

thanks mate, will do. how much would a starter motor cost? so, i guess that would explain the times when the engine turns many times but doesn't actually start, instead just draining the battery to the point where its flat?

nope, all stock

im glad you asked tom because thats exactly what I was going to do!! where is the heating hose located? thanks

ooh, good idea. i'll try that when i get a chance. the nrma guy said the battery had 3/4's of its life to go. not sure how he knew that but his analysis ended at: battery is fine, alternator is fine and engine is turning over quickly, not slowly hence not a battery problem. with the lights, they're xenons so do they use much extra power? thanks

Just a quick question: My r34 gtt seems to struggle to start sometimes. if the headlights are on and i say stall at the lights, there's a moderate chance the car won't start, and the starter motor just makes that ticking noise. its happened many times that if the ignition is left on, and aircon, head unit, head lights etc are left off that the car just won't start. even at its best the engine turns over many times before starting. it was particularly embarrassing when we had the wreckers round to take my grandmothers old, rusted '87 camry from the front yard. the thing had sat there for 2 years and was a write off due to rust, but with a new battery the wrecker started it on the second turnover of the starter motor!! immediately starting, i couldn't believe it lol. anyways, an nrma guy came round last night to replace my brother's battery (the one that exploded in the other thread). he kindly checked my battery and alternator and both were fine. so why is it that my battery is so keen to go flat? and why does the engine have to turn over so many times before it starts? thanks guys, i appreciate any input!!

weirdly, if it starts to sound like a wrx, lifting the rpm to over about 2500 fixes the problem, the tc doesn't work tho...

yeah, ive been changing the filter every time. i meant is there a better brand than just the nissan one? the dealer seems to give me a different filter every time anyways

over the last 5 or so pages there are a few posts talking about the effect of engine flush chemicals on engines. the basic idea seems to be that, to some degree, the oil degrades, hardens and lines the engine evening out imperfections from aging. i guess its some form of coking? it forms kinda an organic part of the engine, to quote one of the previous responses. anyways, this almost self-healing quality of the hardened carbon from the degrading oil will be ripped out by the engine flush, and the cylinders will have larger and more frequent imperfections. in general i'd be uncomfortable with putting some strong solvent instead of a nice smooth oil in my engine under the fairly extreme conditions an engine actually runs in, but im still learning

he just had the alternator replaced, does that give any help? sorry to ask, but im just interested in knowing, if the bonnet was open and/or someone was nearby they could have got a good splash of acid. also, want to avoid this ever happening to my car lol

wow, i didn't realise it was that bad. i have some nulon left over so ill put that through after 1000km, then what, buy some $30-40 semi-synthetic stuff? any suggestions? lol, good thing changing oil is still a novelty, looks like i'll be getting heaps of practice!! should i use a different oil filter? from what ive read id like to avoid using the harsh cleaning agents on the engine if possible, but i guess after a few oil changes i might feel differently

oh and another question, castrol recommends mineral oil for the gearbox, is it better to run synthetic like in the engine?