Galois

yeah mate, it was an NA supra. I'm keeping the hell away from it in my stock gtt hahaha

very nice jimmy, really good looking car you got there. don't forget there are other alternatives if you're just looking at na. mx6 is nice to drive (but a mazda) and impreza's and liberty's are worth a look. saw a 2.5L liberty storm over a speed hump and tare up a hill yesterday much faster than my gtt could just cos it had the awd grip, it was depressing haha

and http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/geared/ for nsw is pretty useful. there are a lot of mods that are very hard to spot tho, unlike huge high mount turbos, bov's and fmic's lol

wow, that's more than my gtt! nice work a mate of mine has a 4th gen supra putting out almost 160rwkw. reckons he's regularly beating r34 gtt's.

sorry to ask, but what effect does the heater have of the flow of coolant?

how long were the tyres unbalanced for? if the tyres have been run unbalanced for a while they wear in a way that, when rebalanced, they unbalance themselves again

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...gs-t104405.html worth the read. have fun

thanks for the info mate. how do i see the error codes? and does anyone know where a key to the codes is?

this is from a sticky in the forced induction thread. definitely worth a read. i went through the same thing myself recently with my gtt and posted what i did at the end. good luck http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...gs-t104405.html

bought bkr6e-11's (coppers) to replace the bkr6ix-11's (iridiums) and installed them with no problems, other than my sockets being too fat to get some of the screws out so had to resort to 10mm ring spanner. the car now purrs beautifully. so yeah, that worked for me, hope someone else finds it useful (btw don't tighten them up too much, keep tightening till there's an obvious resistance) cheers

just remember it can take some time. don't be like me and have the car in pieces as the sun goes down lol

krazykong, im in exactly the same boat! learning as much as i can about the car, no money, cheap mods, and just tryong to get familiar with all the info that's around. there's a massive thread in the stick at the top of this forum on spark plugs. and there's a fair bit of info about on what to do. yeah get a front/dump pipe combo with the separate wastegate pipe. that idea of running a second duct from the stock airbox is pretty sweet too

totally agree with this. these forums are amazing, i changed my oil for the first time 2 days ago, no problems, following these instructions: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sk...ngi-t10035.html only a tiny bit different for the r34, couple of screws, and all was fine these are good instructions for coil packs http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...tml&hl=coil step 5 is the most important. for spark plugs, follow the one above, then just unscrew the plugs below the coil packs http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB...ark-t42819.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ug-t122284.html important notes for the plugs: you'll need to have the right size socket for the plugs, its different to a camry (learned that the hard way) and be careful with screws if the engine is hot, its easy to mess them up. and know what to use: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...gs-t104405.html its always worth having a look through the reference guides in the forum stickys, and the facts/DIY forum http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...ick-t66556.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...IY-FAQ-f57.html have fun, let us know how it goes

thanks for all the feedback guys. i got talked into trying an "easy out" screw thing. it was like a reverse drill bit. anyways, under surprisingly little drill pressure the top of the screw just sheared off the rest of the screw. And since i'd lost one i gave up and just drilled out the other one. i'll have a look at what's left on the weekend when i actually change the plugs. not sure what i can do about the stubs, but its probably not worth bothering with. thanks for the info, there's definitely a lot of options if this happens again cheers

how do you look into the error codes? what is the a piece of equipment or software needed?

its getting worse. yesterday the error light came on, tc turned off and the car ran like shite for a while. 2 restarts later and it went back to normal. i guess this is some ecu problem?

thanks for the replies guys, feel a bit better about it now. was never really confident in belting a chisel in the engine bay anyways lol. so if i drill/grind the head off, how much access will i have to the bottom of the screw?

i bought bkr6e-11's and went to put them in yesterday, but found 2 of the spark plug cover screws didn't grip the allen key http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ug-t313301.html

ok, so i went to change the plugs yesterday. had about 2 hours of light left so it was always a stupid idea, but me in my ambition just went for it. took the cover, various hoses and electrical plugs off and started unscrewing the 8 allen key screw things holding the cover on the plugs. got to the end, and unbelievably, the last 2 had had their allen key thread stripped. so what was meant to fit to fit the key was circular. so after spending an unjustifiable amount of time fiddling desperately with allen key and pliers, gave up, and put it back together. spoke to a mechanic this morning who said i should use a chisel and hammer to turn it. yay, that can't go wrong at all. so yeah, thoughts? suggestions? thanks in advance

i see the point of iridiums if they last, the plugs are a bitch to get to, and scary to get to the first time haha

if the exhaust isn't optimised for flow it'll add less power than another one of the same size could, but will prob be an improvement over a holy exhaust. whatever you do, do it right. the catback my car came with is massively drony

thanks mate. when i posted this i'd only searched the gen maintenance forums, but there's a massive amount of confusing info in the faq sticky in the forced induction performance forums. hoping it sounds happier after this weeks service, it'll be good to not fear the old oil hurting the engine

wow, this is by far the most intense thread ive ever read. and there's no way im the only newbie really confused at the end of this. the problem is, i think, that firstly, newbies (like myself) don't realise how freaking important spark timing is, and changing the gap and plug type and heat range are all just tryng to get the right spark time so that the fuel mixture burns properly, all at once and producing peak explosive power when the cylinder is no longer moving up. AND, making sure that the spark causes a nice clean bang, without other parts of the fuel exploding before the sparked flame gets to it. I'm running a stock (with exhaust) r34 gtt which has a miss at idle but revs smoothly, and is running a bit rich. bought it this way a few months ago. replacing oil and plugs this week, will post back how it goes. from this thread, is looks like the bcpr6es, or bcpr6e (v-power) or bkr6e(s) are the way o go, whatever i can get, gapped at 1.1mm (im running stock psi + tune, ie about 11psi). i have no idea wtf is in there atm, but i hope this helps any confused stock-runners. thanks guys, a great and informative thread

cheers mate. what a fantastic thread, pity im so confused tho. everyone seems to have a different opinion and with such a range of engines and mods no-one's talking along the same lines. kinda wishing id searched the forced induction performance thread, not just the maintenance one :$ thanks again

hey, this post is probably worth more as a free bump than any help, but could it be an immobiliser problem?