Galois

yeah mate, story goes the compressor power is cut so that more of the engine power is going into performance. i thought it was more to do with %throttle but may be wrong, probably a combination of throttle and rpm

oh shite moderators please delete this one, it came up heaps of times guys can you please comment/reply on the one in general maintenance thanks

oh shite moderators please delete this one, it came up heaps of times

Ok guys, please take it easy on this one, I'm new to all this I've had a pretty long look through the forums and there seemed to be a lot of dispute when it comes to spark plugs. I've got a stock r34 gtt with cat-back exhaust, what should I be using? I'm not sure what's in there not cos i haven't looked since i bought it (only just read how to), so I'll be having a look this week. There is a miss-fire at idle tho. So what's the deal? Copper, platinum or iridium? They last different amount of time, right? I'm trying to learn as much as i can at the moment so i don't mind changing the plugs every 5000km with oil (also changing that this week cos, its been almost 7000km and starting to hear a bit of ticking, hoping the change will fix it). I understand is like this: a certain voltage is sent through the plug, which causes the spark, so smaller gap means the spark happens earlier in the piston cycle (as well as being more consistent as less spark is required). Copper requires less voltage to cause the spark (ie more consistent between cycles?), but due to the properties of copper some of the spark plug is lost during each spark. Platinum and iridium are much harder and thus so they don't erode as quickly. The erosion affects when in the cycle the spark fires because it changes the plug gap. So, please correct me if this is wrong!! And what do i buy? lol Thanks in advance

Ok guys, please take it easy on this one, I'm new to all this I've had a pretty long look through the forums and there seemed to be a lot of dispute when it comes to spark plugs. I've got a stock r34 gtt with cat-back exhaust, what should I be using? I'm not sure what's in there not cos i haven't looked since i bought it (only just read how to), so I'll be having a look this week. There is a miss-fire at idle tho. So what's the deal? Copper, platinum or iridium? They last different amount of time, right? I'm trying to learn as much as i can at the moment so i don't mind changing the plugs every 5000km with oil (also changing that this week cos, its been almost 7000km and starting to hear a bit of ticking, hoping the change will fix it). I understand is like this: a certain voltage is sent through the plug, which causes the spark, so smaller gap means the spark happens earlier in the piston cycle (as well as being more consistent as less spark is required). Copper requires less voltage to cause the spark (ie more consistent between cycles?), but due to the properties of copper some of the spark plug is lost during each spark. Platinum and iridium are much harder and thus so they don't erode as quickly. The erosion affects when in the cycle the spark fires because it changes the plug gap. So, please correct me if this is wrong!! And what do i buy? lol Thanks in advance

Ok guys, please take it easy on this one, I'm new to all this I've had a pretty long look through the forums and there seemed to be a lot of dispute when it comes to spark plugs. I've got a stock r34 gtt with cat-back exhaust, what should I be using? I'm not sure what's in there not cos i haven't looked since i bought it (only just read how to), so I'll be having a look this week. There is a miss-fire at idle tho. So what's the deal? Copper, platinum or iridium? They last different amount of time, right? I'm trying to learn as much as i can at the moment so i don't mind changing the plugs every 5000km with oil (also changing that this week cos, its been almost 7000km and starting to hear a bit of ticking, hoping the change will fix it). I understand is like this: a certain voltage is sent through the plug, which causes the spark, so smaller gap means the spark happens earlier in the piston cycle (as wekk as being more consistent as less spark is required). Copper requires less voltage to cause the spark (ie more consistent between cycles?), but due to the properties of copper some of the spark plug is lost during each spark. Platinum and iridium are much harder and thus so they don't erode as quickly. The erosion affects when in the cycle the spark fires because it changes the plug gap. So, please correct me if this is wrong!! And what do i buy? lol Thanks in advance

Thanks for the link mate, very interesting. Just wondering how much I'd expect to pay for this part? And what consequences I'm facing without the solenoid working? Also, just for interest, how much would i expect to pay for the cold air intake snorkel thing that attaches to the stock airbox? thanks for any info

hahaha good article. yeah i had assumed people would have ben building airboxes for the pod filters. thanks for the info

just getting my head round it. i'd always thought they were a performance addition, not just for sound and looks. i've been told by random mates that clean air to the intake manifold can add like 5% (eg: pod filter and fairly straight piece of 3" pipe)

ahh ok, so what extent of mods would be helped by a pod filter? turbo-back exhaust or even more? thanks

Sorry to ask, but are you saying don't put a pod filter on for power? Or am i misinterpreting?

spoke to a local mechanic yesterday who said stock boost would've been round 8psi, but with exhaust and a tune that could be up round 11. hope that helps maddowse.

interesting, yeah its the same on mine. so what does this solenoid not working mean for the car?

yes, all comparisons were flywheel powers. 123kW at the fly would make round 90kW, which isn't much, but its a start. A popular aim for an mx6 is to get 200hp at the fly, which is roughly 112wkW. Which would be fun, given the stock 2.5L: v6 is already pretty fun as a first car. I got most of those values from wiki tho, not forums :$. Makes no sense to get an imported mx6 when so many are available sold here, ie: less insurance. Point taken tho, if it was me id drive as many as i could from this topic and make a decision based on that, would def drive a sss pulsar

mine has -1 to 1 in kg/square cm, which is pretty close to one atmosphere, which is 14.7psi. So when mine shows about 0.8 max boost, thats something like 12psi. Assuming its accurate. Mine are pretty much the same as the pic above. They have a dark background tho, but maybe thats just the flash. It looks pretty similar in symbols etc to the dash

So a line goes from it to the manifold and another goes, via some container, to the fuel tank. It's apparently a solenoid which hs something to do with controlling the air-fuel mixture, except now instead of sucking in more petrol, its sucking in more air. Didn't notice any difference on a drive, but it was corroded and may have been leaking all along. Where should i look to find a replacement piece?

agreed, thats pretty massive. is there an offset? have you got under and had a look?

didn't mean to offend your car mate. just trying to say what you put eloquently: its more a grand tourer than a race car

Hey guys, I was looking around under the bonnet when i touched this piece very lightly and the lead in the middle broke off. It seemed to be quite corroded and fragile. Any ideas what this thing does? The leads go for miles around the engine bay and seem to end up down near the right front suspension. Thank you!! I hope the pics are good enough

*1610kg appologies had a mate take me out in his z32 2+2, it didn't feel like a sports car. if felt big and heavy, quicker than your average car, but not as tight and responsive as an mx6. it actually didn't feel as sprightly as that eunos 20x (mazda mx3) which only had 101kW (1100kg). anyways, we are talking a 200kg difference here between z32's, that's pretty noticeable

the 2.5L dohc liberty was putting out 123kW (165hp) stock (apparently). the 2.0L ones were less powerful. The sss has 105kW and weighs a 100-200 less. but, the sss (stock) has 0-100 in 8.8s, the mx6 stock will be sub 7. mx6 putting out the same exhaust and pod filter should get closer to 180-190hp with a tune, 200hp is a pretty common goal without major work. funness.

i just used the wiki weight, and upon revisiting saw the word "max" next to it. That link is pretty cheap. If you can get something fun for 7grand or less you're laughing. That's why I suggested the mx6: buy an ok one for 5gs, spend another 3 or 4 and have a tight, light, fast car. That autech's probably going to be the fastest you can get stock on your P's. 150kW is insane, actually its pretty similar to a NA supra but weighs 200kg less. After you buy this you can look forward to the turbo decisions: do you go skyline or other, do you get an r34 gtt or an r32 gtr for your dollars, stock-ish or modified, daily drive/weekender/racer. good, fun, poor times edit: actually, what is the quickest (not cheapest or most fun) P plate legal car?

... ok i was wrong about the 200sx autech edition, but they're rare aren't they? like only 1000 ever made? saw 2 expensive (>20grand) ones on drive.com but if you find one grab it, that'd be good fun otherwise the s15 NA is down to 126kW, which is still great in a 1200kg car, but expensive 2nd gen liberty gt-b would be 123kW for 1422kg 1st gen impreza 123kW for 1220kg The bilstein setup would give improved handling, but both have the same engine power (and possible the same engine). That being said, minor changes to an engine can make all the difference, you'd have to drive them and see what you think. There are other things like drivability and how the car looks that might change your mind

wow, interesting read guys. I've spent a while looking for a car for my bro who's on his red p's. You might have to compromise on the rwd if you want a really fun car. The best thing I've come up with is an mx6 (which no-one has mentioned?). The ms6 is light, 1200kg, with 123kW (good power to weight). They're set up pretty tight stock and you could pull it up to 160kW with clean air. A bodykit of any type will help out the shocking fish look. I drove one a few months ago with a bum gearbox, it was still fun and nippy, and the sound was surprisingly enjoyable. Get the 2.6L v6, do it up then leave ppl stunned when you disappear. And lets face it, fwd is a bit safer, so if you pick a car based solely on rwd even though there were other better options you'll hate yourself if you drift a bit far or swerve to avoid something and write it off. The old impreza's have a really good power to weight ratio and awd which would be really fun. Also Honda prelude's and integras are worth a look. These may all be fwd but a tight revvy fwd will feel amazing coming from a lancer (or whatever you're driving, cant remember lol). In the days of the integra type-r, i read a review comparing it to the evo and wrx sti. The outcome was the best drivers car was the integra, even though it had fwd it was so tight and responsive. 300zx NA will probably struggle with the 1700kg its lugging round 180sx NA are underpowered but can look so good 200sx expensive and tho the sr20 is a great engine is must struggle sometimes with the low capacity and no turbo supra expensive but a mate of mine has made the air flow really clean and pulls the same kW as a stock r34 gtt, and regularly out drags them. which is upsetting cos i have an r34 gtt. and finally the awd mitsubishi magna listed above would be worth a test drive too. with its power-to-weight ration on an NA v6 its potentially a good fun car, and a wolf in sheeps clothing (ie: cops won't notice it, unlike most of the other cars mentioned in this forum) just my thoughts anyways

so, bringing the thread back into line: what should the stock psi be for an r34 gtt s1 or s2?