GDZ-14R

In the perfect world it would make 330awkw, esp with all the brand name bits on it... It only made 290 and drove like a pig, although the old tuner was clueless and ignored the boost issues too. Just want to make sure it reaches its potential, and the possibility of it exceeding expectations and making something silly like 370+ would be insane!! Servo in the next suburb is selling E85 as of next month.

If we're talking only one 044 pump, wouldn't the Nismo pump be close in flow rate comparison?

Hmmm that sucks... I'm getting conflicting info on whether the pump is up to it, guess i should stay on the sensible side of the argument. Don't wanna go external pump setup that's for sure.

So my R34 GTR with GTSS', poncams/gears, Z32s, pfc, HKS/Nismo dumps-pipes-zorst, bigger cooler, hard pipes, profec, splitfires, etc. made a poor 290awkw with some serious boost issues. Big plug to Unigroup who seem to have sorted the boost issues that i struggled to find on my own... Now i am up for a decent retune and am seriously considering jumping on the E85 bandwagon, since there are some good supporting mods to start with. My fuel setup is all Nismo, including intank pump, 600cc inj's, and reg. I was thinking bout upgrading to 1000cc ID's, running E85, 22psi+, and aiming for mid 300's at the wheels. What do you guys think of running the Nismo intank with 1000cc ID's to support the power level, and also doing it on standard bottom end?

Scratch that, just found it, in case anyone wants it:

If anybody has an English translated fusebox diagram in their R34 GTR, please post up a pic. I'm specifically after the one in the cabin in the driver's kick panel - not the engine bay. Ta

Back from OS, bits for sale again.

Have a glass of milk and go to bed grandpa

bump

It seems like this is becoming a weekly thread where people are getting similar results with Profec B's, maybe we should rethink recommending these shitty things... I have had nothing but trouble with mine, two sets of turbos, shortest possible lines, actuators, tuners, bla-bla-bla... It is true that boost should be checked on the road by the tuner after dynoing in the perfect world, as spikes often happen with different load on the street. With my old turbo setup i tuned the boost curve much flatter (MFD graph) by lowering the gain slightly and the boost level that the wastegate begins to open at. Give it a go. BTW, what turbos and actuators are you using?

Thanks dude, but i kinda wanted more of a complete set.

After some sticky tyres to suit my track rims. Preferably something between 245-265/18/40. Used is perfect, even if they are quite low. Only gotta complete a few 1/4 runs. Old track semis would be perfect.

Stick with the type B's, i have better then stock response with a similar setup that has cams dialled in for more top end power. If you find the minimal lag you have described as inconvenient, you should be driving a V8 as opposed to any turbo car. Do some reading too, you should not be getting too close to that redline with a stock oil pump, let alone a 10k rev limiter!!

Can't compare, as i have never driven a 32 daily, but can share my series 2 non-vspec 34 GTR daily experience. The seats are tight especially for those like me who have wide shoulders. Economy is ok.. 400-450 city driving a tank when stock, 350ish with 300awkw (i have heard of better, but they are in small company) Performance is average in standard form, 250awkw+ is when things become interesting They are quiet and smooth as you like inside, aircon n heating works well, suspension is a little stiff Brakes are superb, not sure why the fuss by some people Very reliable in my experience Shifting is a little notchy Parking paranoia never ceases, if you don't have secure parking at work n home - don't get one. I don't park mine in tight spots or when clubbing for example I drive it everyday and love it to bits. I have ordinary people almost daily complementing me, flashing me, taking pics, it really is quite surprising that they are still this unique to people. I researched them thoroughly and found the best value to be either a series 1 vspec or a series 2 non vspec. Wish i had the diffusers n maybe the extra functonality of the vspec mfc, but that's bout it that i miss from not having a vspec. The only thing that has soured the whole experience is the shuddery and rattley as all hell JB clutch. It rattles like f**k on idle, and is unbearable when the aircon is switched on. I know they say the dual mass flywheel is a pest, but believe me a performance clutch and flywheel has ruined the daily comfort appeal of the car.

Very similar issue here, valve float has been suggested as a possible cause by my tuner. I will further investigate before diving that deep again, ill let you know what it turns out to be in my case.

I have GTSS's with the original HKS actuators, f*kn things run 0.5bar on mani pressure - must not all be 1bar...

Parts updated as follows: * Coilpacks - $100 (also suit RB25 S2) * Injectors - $300 * Cam gears - $50 * Cams - $200 * Intercooler with piping - $250 * Fuel pump - $100 * Factory dumps - Sold * BB Turbos (no shaft play and super clean) - $650 * Front pipes - $50 * Apexi Power Intake full kit with adaptors (only 2mths old perfect condition, suit R33 too) - Sold * Xforce split dumps (look identical to my HKS, good welds too) - $250 All others remain. Currently OS, let me know what you need and will see if i can organise shipping, though pickup certainly possible. Pump still here. Turbos still here sort of.. They are ceramic, only N1's are steel.

Looks like you have something to suit the R200 found in manual S15's or non vspec 34 GTR's. This is based purely on the information you have given regarding the pattern of the driveshaft bolts. Not sure what the shafts look like in vspec models. Do you currently have a vspec diff (the finned housing)?

I have been told my 26 is suffering from valve float by my tuner. He believes he has diagnosed it based upon the fact that the motor is sluggish to make any more power after 5500rpm on high boost (18psi), and pings unusually when more timing is thrown in. The end result is quality mods (cams, GTSS', fuel, ecu, z32's, splitfires, cooler, etc) not meeting their expected peak power figures. Need to change the springs to overcome the issue. What does your tuner have to say? What do your dyno graphs look like? Is it making expected power up high? I don't feel anything unusual driving the car - certainly no hesitation as you have described, no knock, and pulls very hard. Not sure if this info is what you're after, but hope it helps.

AFAIK all GTR exhausts are interchangeable.

The two dumps are not identical, one is longer then the other, but osrry can't remember which one is which. If you have done them the wrong way around, the front will foul on the driveshaft. I almost cried when i got to this point a couple of weeks, but i did have them the right around in the end - i hope you're that lucky!!

Just thought i would provide some feedback on the NTK 02 sensors i mentioned in the quoted post above for R33-34 GTR's. They were easy to setup and tune. Need to unpick one of the connectors and and get it into the factory front connector from memory. Some of the wires are a lil short to fit into the factory guides, but not by much. Very easy to set up, and cheap too. Speak to Andrew @ Kudos Motorsport and he will fix you up with the awesome deal he has on at the moment.

I rang up Fulcrum today and asked for a pair of replacement rear springs to suit my Tein SS's today and the guy basically refused it on the grounds that the shocks may wear quicker and make the handling worse. I really want my R34 GTR to sit level, currently the rear is like 1.5-2 inches higher then the tyre on the lowest setting, whilst the front sits just over the tyre. Any thoughts as to where i can look for SLIGHTLY lower springs to suit my Teins?

Have a spare set of car matts i bought from the group buy for my R34 GTR, but they are cut to suit the GTT template, so should fit either. They are black with the GTR emblem on the two front matts. Some pics below, but note they are black and not as light as the digital camera has made them look: They are in very good condition, selling for $80. Located in Sydney.

No sorry dude.