GDZ-14R

Not true at all. 65mm vs 80mm You maybe thinking of the Nismo AFM

Sheesh, more power to ya! Although i had an S15, and the thing i miss the absolute most is how nimble and chuckable they are. The extra weight and 4wd may sour the experience... Sounds like this is the one for you: Attesa E-TS Pro (V spec) : 47850-AA410 (written on on the supplement 1 Manual, BR-12) An old mate begun the process on his S15, and called it quits half way in. He based it upon the R32 GTR driveline as it is similar or the same floor pan (from memory). Rear subframe, shafts, diff all bolt straight up. Gluck mate!

That certainly is a good looking bit of kit, and the boot now looks like it is fitting tightly unlike the silly factory fitment. Good job mate!

Unfortunately the Bosch universal replacement "0 258 005 726" for the 33 and 34 GTR's is not available in Australia anymore... So either adapt the NTK OZA395-E2 or get genuine - sux!

Hey Ben, from a new container of Transmax Z (the larger 4 or 5ltr??) i filled my box and transfer with a tiny amount to spare. BTW, let me me know how you find the short shifter. The factory has such a long throw...

What year model 34 do you have, and is it a Vspec? I have always wanted to do this, but not too keen on wearing out my transfer case by fully shifting torque to the rear for drag stuff...

John do this come in any other colours? Do you have any other pics of these to show the true colour, can't work out whether they are silver or champagne in colour?

Don't feel bad, this just happens to be the angriest forum in the UNIVERSE when it comes to whining about large laggy turbos... It seems as though peeps these days will change "what do you think of LED windscreen washers" threads to a "do you think my turbo is too big" thread.. Share the love people!!

Speak to Leon @ http://www.securityinmotion.com.au/ He is an awesome bloke to deal with, and i believe he has done quite a few for SAU guys.

pm sent

I was pulled over by a dark blue Mitsubishi Outlander in Eastwood.

Ok point taken. Like i said i totally agree with the point on street racing, and i suppose reminding other people on this forum is fine, its just that some people seem to do it in an abrasive way..

Shut up with the "don't street drag anyways" crap. Sheesh is it just me noticing or is everyone Captain Farkin Anal when it comes to preaching the right thing to do on the roads. I don't condone street racing but see how you feel when you abide totally by those rules you preach, only to have a power tripper tare your "30yo but still hoon coz you drive a skyliner" ass up with defects and other pointless crap... Most people on here are smart enough not to behave in that manner, so can the lecture. After all they graduated from Corolla's and VN's... Thanks for the heads up mate.

True, true. I had to sacrifice my immaculate 06 STI to get into the the 34. Regardless of how neat it was 90% of people would always say that it wasn't cheapest they could find - wtf skimping on a temperamental sports car!? It will sell when someone who is genuinely after a neat 33R at a decent price sees it.

Wow, from a 34R owner that really does look tuff! Love the fatness of 33's in black and the rims are a nice touch. G'luck mate!

Awesome! Right offset for a GTR too. If they weren't a staggered set they would be sold to me..

Remember one thing, TD series of turbo's have different flanges made by Trust, Mitsu, and Subaru. Make sure you are specific when purchasing the gaskets. Originally coming from the Mitsu crowd (11 sec GSR few years back), we all loved the Mitsu TD05 lineup. Bulletproof turbo's with decent response. However the kit your looking at is Trust kit, so sorta irrelevant from me...

Yeah i guess the previous owner set 90 as the warning marker. Sweet, thanks mate.

Thanks. I found info related mainly to track temps and R32's, but not for daily's or 34's.

Just wanted to ask what is considered safe for daily driving, in terms of oil and water temps. I use my 34 GTR as a daily, in peak hour, and 35+ deg summer days are sending the temps between 85-90 deg for both oil and water. Only came to my attention when the mfd started flashing red for oil temp hitting 90 the other day in traffic...

I tried forever adding/changing mufflers and resonators on my old S15 to shut it up, and all efforts were pointless. Under advice i gave up and got a HKS silent power catback. Best move ever, stock sound until 4.5k, and nice growl up high. Not exactly ghetto fix, but it is a quality long term fix. The Nismo item is very similar in nature on my RB26, very impressive for a cannon. Cheap way out is to flange the rear and add a large oval bodied muffler (2.5" even better), may not look pretty, but you should pass with that.

Dude you soooo gotta post a vid of this thing on one wheel, screamer open, then sik fluttering!!

Cash deposited, hope the stooopid fax machine did it's bit...

Ouch, sounds harsh.. Is it a tap sound or a knock? Oil pressure affected, is it worse when cold, comp test done? Totally different scenario but my old S15 was incorrectly diagnosed with bottom-end damage (similar symptoms, progressively loud rattle above 3k and down on power), when i was sure otherwise. Pulled the cover off and found my cams were chewed out due to poor maintenance , blocked oil lines, etc. Easy fix in the end.

I had my car tuned last week on 12 and 14psi with a Profec B II. When the tune was done on the dyno, it spiked 0.5psi on both settings and settled to the desired setting. However on the street it is spiking by almost 2psi on each setting - which is not what anyone wants with the stock turbines.. I have turned the gain down on high and low settings but the variance is still too ridiculous for a controller with such a good rep. My question is have i set it up right? I have left the standard Nissan solenoid plugged in but blocked one of its lines. I have tee'd the actuators in to the Greddy solenoid, which i know is right. The part i am not sure about, i have tee'd the hard lines that come from the intake manifold (before the throttle bodies) and fed that into the Greddy solenoid as the pressure source. Please if anyone can pick a fault in my config let me know!!